Chablis is Chardonnay

Although often linked to the entire 25,000 hectare Burgundy region, Chablis with its four official appellations or classifications, has managed to maintain its status as a unique sub-region and a fine producer of serious white wine.

Interestingly, Chablis' fame as a region and a wine far exceeds that of the only white grape used in its production -- chardonnay. In fact, the varietal chardonnay moniker, so instrumental in selling wine in the New World, doesn't even appear on the label that historically, in the Old World of wine, pays homage to the vineyard site and its classification.

Chablis' best is labelled Grand Cru and comes from seven hillside vineyards overlooking the town of the same name. Together Les Blanchots, Les Bouguerots, Les Clos, Les Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Les Valmur, and Les Vaudésir total 103 ha of outstanding chardonnay, the best of which will easily age a decade before reaching maturity.

Although Premier Cru Chablis seldom displays the power and weight of a Grand Cru, it is a wine of great finesse and structure. The best known sites include Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Montmains, Beauroy, Vaudevey and Vaillons. In all, Premier Cru vines are found on some 80 separate plots of land covering 775 ha of prime Chablis vineyard.

Everyday or "classic" Chablis is produced from some 3056 ha of vines grown mainly on the Kimmeridgien limestone that comprises the major soil type in Chablis. Its fresh and lively style comes flecked with mineral, flinty, west stone characters that often taste best within three years of bottling.

The final category you are likely to encounter on store shelves is Petit Chablis (652 ha). It's wine that is mostly grown at higher altitudes on mixed limestone soils. Less intense but often fragrant and fresh, they too are best enjoyed young.

For me, Chablis is the quintessential food wine. In a world full of flabby, sweet whites, it is the perfectly chiselled six-pack abs. Its prominent acidity, crisp dry flavours and nuances of seaweed make it the classic oyster companion, although roasted chicken, Dover sole and grilled prawns will all work at the dinner table.

The best news of all is the quality of the 2004 vintage (very good), and the 2005 (outstanding), leaves consumers with a fair bit of choice. If ever there was a time to discovery or revisit the wines of Chablis this is it.

We begin with La Chablisienne Chablis 2005 and its lemon, mineral, green apple skin and floral notes. On the palate it is elegant and fresh with green apple, grassy, lime flavours and salty, mineral finish. Solid introductory Chablis you can match to a variety of shellfish dishes.

The William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2004 has a dry, elegant, round style but with good acidity. The textures are slightly oily with citrus, green apple and light buttery, chalky flavours. Clean, elegant introductory-style Chablis. Look for the 2005 to have arrived in some stores.

Many consider Jean Marc Brocard a master of modern-day Chablis. His Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Montmains 1er Cru 2004 has an enticing smoky lees nose flecked with a nutty, mineral, citrus aroma. Similar flavours finish dry and with just a hint of butter in the aftertaste. Fine finesse from a solid year for Chablis.

Another excellent cru is the Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux 2004 with its chalky, spicy, green apple skin and flinty, floral, lemon nose. Crisp and still tight on the palate its mineral, lemon, green apple, pear skin flavours call for oysters on the half shell. Love the value here.

Our two final picks from Domaine Christian Moreau can easily be cellared for another three years.

The Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon Cuvee Guy Moreau 2004 has a bright nutty, mineral, floral nose with citrus notes. On the palate it tastes of green apple, lees, butter, lemon, anise and mineral/wet stone flavours. Cuvee Guy Moreau takes its name from a 70-year-old block planted by Guy Moreau in 1934.

The prize of the current Chablis list in government stores is the Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2004. Les Clos is always intense. Its fresh but delicate style gives way to a juicy green apple flavours flecked with lemon and floral, spicy butter flavours and a delicate vanilla, apple skin, citrus finish. A terrific bottle of French chardonnay you can drink now or hold through 2010.

Price:     $25.99

UPC:      3333241100169

Score:   86/100

Remarks:             Green apple, grassy, lime flavours with a salty, mineral finish.

WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS CHAMPS ROYAUX 2004, CHABLIS, BURGUNDY, FRANCE

Price:     $29.99

UPC:      3443620067263

Score:   87/100

Remarks:             Clean, tasty elegant style for introductory Chablis.

JEAN-MARC BROCARD CHABLIS MONTMAINS 1ER CRU 2004, FRANCE

Price:     $35.95

UPC:      3436802100414

Score:   88/100

Remarks:             Toasted lees, mineral, green apple skin, citrus and butter flavours.

DOMAINE LOUIS MOREAU CHABLIS 1ER CRU LES FOURNEAUX 2004, FRANCE

Price:     $37.07

UPC:      3452460001016

Score:   90/100

Remarks:             Flinty, lemon, mineral notes with green apple, pear and lime.

DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU CHABLIS 1ER CRU VAILLON CUVEE GUY MOREAU 2004, FRANCE

Price:     $39.99

UPC:      089744423528

Score:   91/100

Remarks:             Bright nutty floral lees and creamy citrus notes

DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES CLOS 2004, FRANCE

Price:     $59.99

UPC:      089744423672

Score:   92/100

Remarks:             Floral, lemon, green melon, seashell, with touch of butter.