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Where there's smoke there's fire, but is there smoke damage?
It is a sensible enough question given the coverage of the wildfires in West Kelowna, but really, everyone should take a step back, take a deep breath of slightly smoky air and relax.
The grapes are more like hard green peas at the moment and will not be bothered by the smoke. Typically, the grapes are more or less bulletproof until what the French call veraison occurs. That is when the berries change colour and begin the final stages of ripening.
The Argentines are a bit more poetic, terming the skin colour change "the painting of the vineyard." From that point forward, a sustained cataclysmic smoke event could pose more problems, but that's not what happened this time in Kelowna.
As it turns out, I spent a crazy 16 hours with one of the world's most respected wine commentators, Jancis Robinson, who together with her husband Nick Lander, a noted restaurant reviewer and consultant in London, was spending some brief vacation time in Vancouver.
Robinson agreed to a 24-hour whirlwind tour of the Okanagan set up by a local friend that included a tasting of approximately 100 wines. Robinson, who is as bright and as erudite as they come in the wine business, seemed genuinely pleased to finally be in the Okanagan, calling it "the Most Famous Wine Region I Have Never Visited."
At some point I'm sure she will pass along her thoughts about the tastings, likely at www.jancisrobinson.com, but I'm betting she will note a measurable increase in overall quality since her last assessment several years back.
I can tell you she is somewhat bemused by Canadian wine laws and labelling. She cannot understand why consumers are treated so shabbily by authorities who permit the use of the "Cellared in Canada" label when the wine in question contains so much foreign juice. Robinson spotted many such bottles masquerading as pseudo-Canadian wine in local wine shops.
Ironically, the deceitful labelling condoned by the monopolies and government authorities who regulate our wine laws is the handiwork of Canada's largest wine companies that are extremely adept at playing both sides of the fence. One day they are the leading purveyors of 100-per-cent Canadian-made wine; the next they are mixing in as little as one per cent of it and selling it in the same stores, calling it "Cellared in Canada" as if that had something to do with the provenance of the wine.
There is nothing new about this story; everybody involved is at least guilty of misdirection, and nothing is likely to change until we get serious about truth in labelling. Of course, Robinson's point of view is: Why not protect Canadian citizens now? Excellent question, Jancis. Over to you, Premier Gordon Campbell and Prime Minister Stephen Harper.
When will you insist the privilege of making wine in Canada does not come with a carte blanche ticket to invent wine laws that are blatantly self-interested and in no way benefit the consumer?
Now back to wine. Since I also tasted through the same selection Robinson was assessing, I thought I would present six of the wines that most impressed me.
The pinot blanc flight was impressive and a star performer was the Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc 2008. This is a delicious version with bright fresh fruit, fine acidity and a lively vibrant palate. The fruit is 100-per-cent estate-grown on the Naramata Bench. I love the mix of pear, mineral and nectarine skin with a bit of honey and peach. Fantastic value in a food-friendly wine. Private wine shops only.
Three pinot gris labels stood out, Stoneboat, Lake Breeze and Mission Hill. The folks at Mission Hill can sometimes be too focused on their high-end wines when they should be bragging like crazy about the affordable Five Vineyards series. The latest Mission Hill Pinot Grigio Five Vineyards 2008 is a delight from its price to its on plate delivery. Again it is the fresh lees and flinty honeyed citrus/pear fruit that grab your attention and the long exuberantly fruity finish now devoid of that bitter lime rind character. This is a versatile wine for sushi or grilled fish.
The Church & State Chardonnay Gravelbourg Vineyard 2006 is hitting its stride. The steep sloped Gravelbourg Vineyard lies midway up the Black Sage Bench, and the wine is made to age. Winemaker Bill Dyer blends two clones, 96 and 76, to shape this chardonnay. Less of that malolactic buttery character helps to reveal a spicy fruit nose with bright flavours of melon, green apple and citrus. It is really rounding into form now.
Black Hills Alibi 2008 is fashioned after the sauvignon blanc/sémillon blends of the Loire Valley. We love the fresh open vibrant energetic entry of this 81/19 blend wine and all the fruit. It jumps from the glass offering citrus, honey, green apple fruit aromas with bits of mineral/chalky, grapefruit flavours.
Among the reds, Fairview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 shows the balance so often lacking with this variety in B.C., along with bright cassis jam, pepper, spice, coffee, vanilla and black olives. Try this with grilled meats.
The Hester Creek Reserve Merlot 2005 is made with some of the oldest vines in the valley. The nose is highly fragrant and bright with cedar mocha red currants and dried herbs aromas and flavours. On the palate the wine is soft and ready to drink. Try this with flank steak or spaghetti Bolognese.
LAKE BREEZE PINOT BLANC 2008
Price: $17 (private wine stores only)
UPC: 6269900003069
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Fantastic value in a food-friendly wine.
MISSION HILL PINOT GRIGIO FIVE VINEYARDS 2008
Price: $16
UPC: 776545995322
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Flinty honeyed citrus/pear fruit that grabs your attention.
CHURCH & STATE CHARDONNAY GRAVELBOURG VINEYARD 2006
Price: $25
UPC: 840098116621
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Restrained stylish, cool-climate chardonnay.
FAIRVIEW CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005
Price: $35
UPC: 850104000556
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fine fruit and balance.
Well done.
HESTER CREEK RESERVE MERLOT 2005
Price: $26
UPC: 12860370012
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Try this with flank steak or spaghetti Bolognese.
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BLACK HILLS ALIBI 2008
Price: $30
UPC: 833665003068
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Sophisticated white wine.
