Callaway Versus Clos du Bois

Although dramatically different in style, Callaway Winery and Clos du Bois are owned by the same company, British-based beverage giant Allied Domecq. Clos du Bois, of Sonoma County, is perhaps the better known label in B.C., thanks to the work of the Playhouse Wine Festival and countless Sonoma events that have made its many chardonnays famous. Callaway, southern California's largest wine producer, has assumed a new identity and moved its operations to the Central Coast. The Temecula Valley had been its home for 30 years. However, faced with pressures of commercial and residential growth in the region and the significant loss of grape production caused by a serious bacterial infection known as Pierce's disease, the winery has become a major purchaser of grapes grown farther north, in the cool coastal regions of Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Monterey counties. Callaway general manager John Falcone (formerly winemaker at Atlas Peak Vineyards in Napa Valley) and Clos du Bois winemaker Margaret Davenport recently visited Vancouver and hosted an evening at the Metropolitan Hotel to showcase the latest from both labels. All the wines were tasted during dinner (a rare occurrence for what I cover in this column) at Diva at the Met, and so I have added the finely tuned menu pairings of Diva chef Andrew Springett and Metropolitan executive chef Michael Noble. Here's the lineup: I quite like the Callaway Coastal sauvignon. Falcone has blended cool Monterey fruit with warmer grapes from east Paso Robles and Temecula, creating fresh aromas and flavours of kiwi, fig and grapefruit rind. There's a dash of pinot gris in this round, soft sauvignon, with just a touch of sweetness in the finish. It's fun to drink and one of the few affordable California wines in the market. Diva's menu match was a delectable Nicoise salad confit. The Callaway chardonnay is one many new-wave Central Coast whites that rely on freshness for their appeal. Look for apple-nectarine fruit flavours and a touch of grapefruit rind in the finish. Partial barrel fermentation helps to round out the textures in the finish. The Clos du Bois reserve chardonnay took us north to Sonoma's Alexander Valley. It is the product of selected lots from contracted growers, all aged in French oak. Look for a smoky, toasted oak nose with vanilla, butter, honey, peach and citrus aromas. Good body and moderate up-front acidity help make it a very elegant wine. Both chardonnays were served to accompany Alaskan black cod with crab gyoza and an organic corn veloute. The Callaway cabernet flutters on the edge of cool-climate production. Cool earth and dusty cherries give way to resiny/menthol aromas. It's much more supple on the palate than its cool demeanour would suggest, offering plenty of cherry, blackberry, coffee, and vanilla flavours. It's a ready-to-drink red that's perfect for restaurant wine lists. The Clos du Bois cabernet reserve is blend of selected fruit from five contract growers. It's less than 10 per cent merlot, with a touch of cabernet franc thrown in. At twice the price of the Callaway, it is obviously bigger and richer in structure. Ripe blackberry fruit laced with pepper, licorice, smoke and prunes assaults your senses. It will continue to improve over the next two to three years, but it's already drinkable. The cabs were paired with a substantial lamb chop, Barolo-braised stew and roesti potato. The Clos du Bois shiraz accompanied three cheeses, including a sensational piece of Tete de Moine from the Menu Setters at 10th and Alma. Given the worldwide jump in shiraz prices, the Clos du Bois, at $29, delivers fine value. This one is rich and supple in the mouth, with vanilla, spice, pepper, blackberry jam, roasted pepper and licorice flavours that won't quit. It's delicious now. A delightful surprise at the dinner was the Callaway viognier reserve (not pictured) -- a delicious mix of mineral, spicy/honey/citrus blossom aromas and tropical fruit/apple and creamy lees flavours. The good news is there is no oak used with this wine, the bad news is there won't be any sold in Canada just yet. It will, however, be featured at April's Playhouse International Wine Festival opening gala dinner. It will be a hit. WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Callaway / Clos du Bois Producer: Callaway 1999 Coastal Sauvignon Blanc Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 576702 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Fresh, light, bright shellfish wine. Producer: Callaway 1999 Coastal Chardonnay Price: $16.95 Stock No.: 576710 Score: 14/20 Comments: California summer sipper. Producer: Clos du Bois 1998 Chardonnay Reserve, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County Price: $28.95 Stock No.: 479527 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Stylish; mineral/citrus flavours. Producer: Callaway 1998 Coastal Cabernet Sauvignon Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 576728 Score: 14/20 Comments: Straight-ahead, easy-drinking cab. Producer: Clos du Bois 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County Price: $34.25 Stock No.: 559864 Score: 16/20 Comments: Ripe, supple, full-bodied. Producer: Clos du Bois 1997 Shiraz, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County Price: $28.95 Stock No.: 559872 Score: 17/20 Comments: Delicious, peppery, fruity.