California Rushes to Canvas Lounge

Fifty-five dollars will get you a ticket to the West Coast romp that is infinitely less structured when compared to the buttoned-down, jacket and tie affairs of Italy and France. The night is all about fun so forget your notebook, enjoy the music and bites of food served up by Glowbal Catering, and use the time to chat with winery principals before they settled into three long days of work at the Trade and Exhibition Centre.

Compare the California Wine Rush to the first festival special event (big gulp now), 30 years ago, and it is clear we have come a long way. I know there are still a good percentage of you 50 and 60-somethings out there who remember sitting in a crowded Hycroft ballroom, tasting acid, tannin, fruit and water courtesy of the folks at Robert Mondavi.

The cutting edge (back then) 'component' tasting was designed to familiarise consumers with the structure and main building blocks in wine. Robert Mondavi was convinced that by educating drinkers about how wine was made and where the grapes came from their interest in wine would grow. Ass it became a more important part of their life it would weave its way into the social fabric of North American life much the way it was embedded in the European culture.

Forty years after he launched his instant Highway 29 icon winery Robert Mondavi can take some solace that his vision is slowing coming into focus. I'm betting he didn't think it would take so long but the good wine ship America has proved to be a difficult vessel to bring about. California is entering a new, important phase of winemaking. Hillsides and coastal locales are the watchwords and for the first time since Mondavi explained the individual components that make up wine, many American producers are crafting bottles that highlight such ingredients rather than covering them up in sweet fruit and far too much oak.

At 94 years of age, Mondavi can only smile now, confident his job is complete as he passes the torch to a new generation. As for you middle age sippers wondering what it might be like to be out in Gastown at 10 o'clock at night, get a ticket to the California Wine Rush and find out. Remember Mr. Mondavi didn't even open his winery until he was 52 years old. His real contributions began when he was in his 70s and 80s. Now that is something we can all aspire to.

Here some current California listings you should consider especially as prices finally begin to moderate. February should be the month we see some substantial savings courtesy of the strong Canadian dollar. Since talk has [proved fruitless it's time to wield some power at the cash register and support those wineries that have dropped their prices to reflect the substantial increase in buying power in the Canadian dollar.

The latest Benziger Sauvignon Blanc 2005 is dry, round, elegant and crisp with a slightly oily texture. The flavours mix of minerals and grapefruit with butter and grassy, bell pepper flavours that finish crisp. A fine, tasty, food style sauvignon.

Conundrum 2005 remains an intriguing mixed fruit blend that includes: sauvignon blanc, sémillon, chardonnay, viognier and muscat that result in an aromatic, lifted fruit wine with honey, creamsicle, ginger, floral, citrus and peach pit flavours. Great intensity if a bit sweet. Best served with spicy Indian or Asian dishes.

If you are looking for big value the Bridlewood Syrah 2004 from the Central Coast is a great place to start. Bridlewood uses whole berry fermentation in open top tanks to boost its fruit core before ageing its syrah in French oak. The palate is extremely inviting with pleasing meaty, dark cassis, fruit-streaked with cool hints of violets and licorice. Well made, uncomplicated, easy-drinking at a great price.

The Bommarito Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 is back on track with its clean, pretty, Napa cab nose and the price has dropped $6. Plums, spicy cherries and licorice with pepper and cardamom all figure in the taste. It is soft and dry on entry with cassis licorice and vanilla flavours and now after a serious price correction, outstanding value.

It seems everyone loves cabernet and the Paso Robles-based Hope family have done a terrific job with their delicious stylish Liberty School brand. The just released Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is the product of a longer, cooler growing season whose extra added hang-time has resulted in a red wine packed full of peppery, sweet black fruit and soft tannins. It's a real crowd pleaser. Buy this one before the restaurants take it all.

Finally the Monteviña Zinfandel Terra d'Oro SHR Field Blend 2004 of zinfandel, petite syrah and barbera comes with a meaty, peppery, spicy, floral, licorice nose, a warm palate with light tannins and plenty of peppery, licorice, black berry, coffee, chocolate, vanilla, and cedar flavours. Try this with barbecued back ribs or roasted chicken.

BENZIGER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, NORTH COAST, CALIFORNIA

Price       $24

UPC         785774000325

Score      88/100

Remarks Light melon, grapefruit, mineral and passion fruit flavours.

CONUNDRUM 2005, CALIFORNIA

Price       $30

UPC         017224702139

Score      88/100

Remarks Ripe, honey, creamsicle, ginger, floral, citrus, peach pit flavours.

BRIDLEWOOD SYRAH 2004, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES

Price       $17

UPC         00085000014219

Score      88/100

Remarks Well made and uncomplicated at a great price.

BOMMARITO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES

Price       $22

UPC         00011628222019

Score      89/100

Remarks Plums, spicy cherries and cassis licorice and vanilla flavours.

LIBERTY SCHOOL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES

Price       $23

UPC         657891700207

Score      88/100

Remarks Packed full of peppery, sweet black fruit and soft tannins. A real crowd pleaser.

MONTEVIÑA ZINFANDEL TERRA D'ORO SHR FIELD BLEND 2004, AMADOR COUNTY, SIERRA FOOTHILLS, CALIFORNIA

Price       $30.00

UPC         009460000322

Score      88/100

Remarks Licorice, black berry, coffee, chocolate, vanilla, and cedar flavours.