California Crazy

I'm in California wine country this week attending a weeklong summit on California wine. The Golden State is back in the driver's seat in Canada, where sales of California wine are on fire.

I'm delighted to report that there have been no proposals to build a wine pipeline between California and B.C. but given the recent surge in sales it would appear California producers have a direct pipeline into B.C. government stores.

U.S. sales in B.C. are up nearly 12 per cent over last year topping out at some $136 million dollars and some $130 million of those dollars are California sales. Leading the surge, and it is no surprise, is red wine. It's up 15 per cent over last year at $86.5 million.

Perhaps the most significant number coming out of California during the last five years, some of the toughest economically for American wine producers, is that California producers have managed to raise the price of an average sale in British Columbia from $16.27 a bottle to 18.66.

I'm thinking California can thank British Columbia producers for giving them the room to move up in price without anyone noticing. Decades ago as France, California, Australia and others abandoned the cheap end of the wine market Canadian producers filled in those price brackets raising their bottom line while still remaining competitive. Today skyrocketing local wine prices have given import wine producers a shelf to perch on at prices that are more attractive than local wines.

To my point, 50 per cent of all U.S. sales are between $15 and $20. This has become a battleground for global producers and it's a price point now largely abandoned by the local producers who even selling direct are well above $20.

What we are drinking is also of interest. Cabernet sauvignon sales remain strong at $34 million and growing at five per cent over the last year, but it is pinot noir that is turning heads. At $6.1 million it's not huge but the change is up 30 per cent. Stylistically it points to a market that is OK drinking lighter reds, softer tannins and perhaps slightly more sophisticated wine. If there is a loser its merlot. The grape widely disparaged in the movie Sideways is trending down 4.5 per cent over last year's sales, accounting for $6.4 million in sales.

British Columbia was California's first export market back in the late 1970s and while Europe has long surpassed Canada as California's No. 1 export market we are staging a comeback. Of the top markets for California Wines, the European Union's 27 member countries are the largest, accounting for $485 million, up 1.7 per cent; followed by Canada ($434 million, up 14 per cent); Hong Kong ($115 million, down 30 per cent); Japan ($111 million, up six per cent); China ($74 million, up 18 per cent); Vietnam ($27 million, up 22 per cent); Mexico ($20 million, up four per cent); South Korea ($16 million, up 26 per cent).

The Canadian consumer continues to embrace California wines, making it the fastest growing wine region in this country by volume and value according to Rick Slomka, Wine Institute Trade Director for Canada.

Much of the growth is coming from red blend brands which have strong appeal to the younger generation of wine consumers. At the same time, Canadian consumers continue to show interest in California wines at higher price points with sales of premium wines reaching higher levels than ever before. This momentum is expected to continue in 2013 with major retail promotions this spring in the three largest provincial markets of Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia.

Numbers are one thing wines are quite another. I hope to report back over the next few weeks about what is actually going on in California wine country. How sweet is California wine? What's up with screwcaps? Who will step up and represent California wine on a global basis in the manner Robert Mondavi and Ernst and Julio Gallo did in their time.

So many question so little time.

As I write this a tasting of 'value' wines is about to start across from my room. Value in California wine, sounds interesting.

Lake Breeze Semillon 2012, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $19 (winery direct) | Score: 89/100

UPC: 626990003052

I'm guessing this wine isn't for everyone, which is fine by me because I would like to buy more of it. Love the nettle weedy grassy undertones that support the zesty mix of grapefruit, white flowers and jalapeno notes. The attack is dry and but juicy with pink grapefruit and gooseberry flavours that persist into along finish. Delicious acidity and sugar balance the finish. Bravo.

Trivento Amado Sur Torrontés -- Viognier -- Chardonnay 2012, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $15 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 7798039596733

A 25 per cent mix of Viognier and Chardonnay joins 75 per cent torrontés to shape a refreshing Mendoza blend. The nose and palate is a mix of citrus, sorbet and fresh grapefruit. The mid-palate is airy and light but with some complexity you don't see at this price point and it finishes clean. You could serve this with a wide variety of chicken and seafood dishes and throw in some sushi too.

Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2011, Hermanus, Walker Bay, Overberg, South Africa

Price: $45 | Score: 91/100

UPC: 00600252500022

Hamilton Russell owns the South African Chardonnay market. We love its cool restrained style, clearly made by a producer who not only loves Burgundy but drinks it. This 2011 was a warmer year and this wine has some extra fruit but it remains austere and complex on the nose with pear and lime notes on the nose. The palate is firm tight and stony with a strong floral, mineral honey melon flavours. Very stylish.

Gayda Grenache 2011, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France

Price: $15 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 3760143270506

Look for fresh black raspberry nose with spicy, meaty, savoury aromas. The palate is smooth and juicy with black raspberry jam, candied orange, spicy, red licorice and kirsch flavours. A touch of sweetness but good fruit and a fun, juicy, easy-sipping style. Lots of potential here with pork, turkey or lamb. Good value.

Toscolo Chianti 2012, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $20 | Score: 89/100

UPC: 726452001210

Just knocked out by the quality and breed of this wine for the price. Famed Tuscan oenologist Franco Bernabei works with owner Neil Empson to make a delicious, elegant style sangiovese that sings Chianti. The nose is fresh and inviting and both clean and yet complex with red fruit scents. The attack is dry and round with fine ripeness and acidity underlying its spicy, cherry fruit flavours. Crazy value here and I'm not sure this wine won't improve in bottle for another three years. Pasta and mushrooms is the perfect match.

Peter Lehmann Portrait Series Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price: $23 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 9311910102212

Portrait is designed to provide a picture of the heart of Barossa by blending fruit from more than 60 growers from across the region. Several vineyards are more than 100 years old. Look for a rich shiraz style with an earthy chocolate, mushroom black fruit flavours. The textures are soft with a resiny black licorice warm finish. Grilled lamb chops would be a fine match.