California Comes to Vancouver

An astounding 120 California producers will be at the show representing wineries from the tiny, premium boutique size to those turning out some of the largest "brands" in the business.

California wine sales are on a bit of roll in Canada, with sales climbing across the country more than 10 per cent in 2011. In British Columbia, California red wine sales are just under $78 million, up 11.3 per cent over the previous 12-month period, and white wines are on the move too with over $30 million in sales, a jump of 5.8 per cent over the previous twelve months.

With hundreds of exciting boutique wineries stretched across the Golden State, you could be forgiven for thinking the jump in sales may signal a return to the old days when names like Heitz and Mondavi, Caymus and Phelps, Jordan and Benziger ruled the shelves. You could add many other pioneers to that list, including Diamond Creek, Shafer, Silver Oak, Clos du Val, Montelena, Beringer and Duckhorn, but that was then and this is now.

Today, the glamour names are still around but their sales pale in comparison to modern brands that trade on a single name and the broadest of appellations, usually "California." Two of the three top-selling California labels in B.C. are brands. J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon ($23) remains the money leader in B.C., reflecting the globe's fascination with the Cabernet Sauvignon. But when it comes to total bottles sold, a sweet red blend made by Gallo and labelled Apothic ($17) leads in volume, just ahead of another "California" Cabernet Sauvignon The Show Cabernet Sauvignon ($19), whose iconic woodcut label may be as attractive as the wine.

If there is a sliver of light for smaller production wines going forward, it is the coming grape crunch. California is going to experience a grape shortage over the next five or six years as steady demand for wine, recent short vintages, an economy that hasn't inspired any new plantings, and old vine-yards that need replanting are all converging - suggesting buying grapes and/or juice in the coming months and years is going to be expensive.

Estate wineries that own vineyards are always in the best position when grapes are in demand and prices jump, so look for a resurgence of boutique producers in this market going forward - all the more reason to attend this week's California Wine Fair and discover some new labels. A silent auction will run throughout the evening, featuring luxury hotel stays and gift certificates to top entertainment attractions, fine restaurants and spas. Tickets are $75 each, $65 per person for groups of six or more. Call the box office directly at 604-687-1644, or order online at artsclub.com.

The latest edition of Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2010 is officially transformed into a seriously lean, citrus, fruity delicious white you can serve with a wide range of foods. The attack is creamy and fresh, the flavours a mix of lemon grass and sweet melon fruit flecked with honey and ginger. Well done and seriously reliable. Should be a restaurant wine list staple.

The Bonterra Vineyards Chardonnay 2010 is an all-organic Chardonnay and that includes the winemaking. The nose is fresh and clean with citrus and red apple aromas and just a touch of lees and toasted bread to lift it above the ordinary. The palate is similar with dry buttery, nutty, citrus, fruit flavours and mineral notes in the background. A modern delicious, healthy white you can serve with fresh halibut and a fruit salsa.

Licorice root, black cherry jam, mint and chocolate pudding mark the nose of the Rodney Strong Zinfandel Knotty Vines 2009. The attack is full, if slightly chunky, with black cherry, smoky, lico-rice, leather, chocolate, barn-yard and vanilla flavours with a coffee finish. A solid, robust style of zinfandel for current drinking.

Plume Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 is a joint venture project with the Okanagan's Stewart family (Quail's Gate) and the Zepponi family of Napa Valley, founders of ZD Winery. A mix of earthy, blackberry aromas mixed with vanilla, coffee, cedar, pepper and can-died orange mark the nose. The attack is ripe and dry with light, grainy tannins. It has restrained flavours, at least for Napa, of smoky coffee, cedar, minty blackberry jam with a savoury undercurrent. Try this with either beef or lamb.

Fasten your seatbelt: the Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 2009 - a 74/23/6 blend of zinfandel, petite Syrah and carignane from Sonoma County - is big. It's aged some 14 months in American oak, of which only 18 per cent is new. The nose is an attractive mix of black fruit, vanilla clove and black licorice and barnyard notes. The palate is similar, with dark fruits and black rasp-berry flecked with dried herbs. A great match for a leg of lamb or steak.

We conclude with the Ken-wood Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series 2007 from Sonoma County. Again, intense blackberry, cassis jam and black olive aromas mixed with tobacco, cedar and menthol notes. The attack is ripe but the palate is elegant with some fine grained tannins and peppery, olive, blackberry, earthy, menthol flavours. The finish is on the oaky side at this point with still some tannin to shed. One of the best Artist Series we've seen in many years.

In The Cellar

GOLDEN STATE PICKS

Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2010, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $25

UPC: 742651121191

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Well done and seriously reliable. Should be a restaurant wine list staple.

Bonterra Vineyards Chardonnay 2010, Mendocino County, California, United States

Price: $19

UPC: 082896780419

Score: 89/100

Remarks: An all-organic Chardonnay (including the winemaking) from Mendocino County.

Rodney Strong Zinfandel Knotty Vines 2009, Northern Sonoma, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $24

UPC: 087512920057

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Solid, robust style zinfandel made for barbecue ribs.

Plume Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa Valley, California, United States

Price: $30

UPC: 00854987001198

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Smoky coffee, cedar, minty black-berry jam and cassis flavours.

Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 2009, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $50

UPC: 744442901005

Score: 91/100

Remarks: A great match for a leg of lamb or roast beef.

Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series 2007, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $75

UPC: 010986000017

Score: 92/100

Remarks: One of the best Artist Series in many years.

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