California Wine Fare

The 2001 travelling road show, which is one of the largest to criss-cross Canada in years, is the most economical chance you will have to evaluate California wine this year. Many consumers will be familiar with the stand-up, walk-around format of the tasting session, which takes place at the newly remodelled Westin Bayshore on Wednesday from 7 to 9:30 p.m., but there is an added attraction on Tuesday evening that's worth considering. The Arts Club Theatre (beneficiary of the fair) presents an epicurean winemaker dinner and auction at Diva at the Met on Tuesday, with wines provided by Kendall-Jackson. Executive chef Michael Noble along with Diva restaurant chef Andrew Springett will speak to the food and wine pairings at each course. The cost for the dinner is $125, which includes a $50 charitable donation receipt. Tickets to the Wednesday tasting are available by advance purchase only, at $49.75. Call the Arts Club box office at 687-1644 or Ticketmaster, 280-3311. Winemaker dinner tickets are only available through the Arts Club box office, or online at www.artsclub.com If you are unable to attend the show, but would like an idea of what it's like to sample wines from across the state in one room, today's tasting of affordable Californians attempts to do just that. Best of all, you shouldn't have much trouble finding any of the following in government liquor stores across B.C. Chenin blanc isn't a California heavyweight varietal, but one of the state's most respected wine writers, Dan Berger, is always raving about the label from Dry Creek. The fruit comes from Clarksburg in the Sacramento delta region, and it's fermented entirely in stainless steel, and there is no barrel aging. As a result, the aromas and flavours are clean and bright, with pineapple, melon and citrus fruit predominating. This is the ultimate choice to accompany spicy Asian dishes, or to pour as an aperitif on the patio all summer. Estancia Chardonnay comes from the Pinnacles district of Monterey, and is made in the winery's distinctive round, oaky style and laced with citrus highlights. Smooth and tasty with a spicy, vanilla-honey finish, it's an attractive, medium-weight chardonnay that will appeal to most palates. The 1998 Ironstone Vineyards Merlot includes some cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc to add structure to the softer merlot fruit. Look for plums, black cherries and vanilla in the flavours of this versatile dinner wine. Grilled pork tenderloin, or a spicy midweek pasta dish would be perfect dinner companions. Bonterra Vineyards will be at next month's Playhouse International Wine Festival with a complete lineup of its organically certified wines, including this syrah, which is grown in the Sanel Valley in southern Mendocino County. The colour is inky dark and the aromas remind one of a mix of blackberries and blueberries. This is a surprisingly tasty red from a difficult vintage. Consider serving it with rich foods such as hearty stews, osso buco, lamb chops or strong cheeses. Gallo has lost some momentum in Canada as it struggles to establish a premium image, but there is nothing wrong with this zinfandel. Look for ripe raspberry jam and plummy fruit flavours mixed with coconut and mocha, all underlaid by spicy American oak. It's full-bodied, yet soft and fun to drink now. It would go well with grilled meats. The cool 1998 "El Nino" vintage caused many California wineries to take drastic action to ripen their cabernet. At J. Lohr, the decision to thin the grapes by dropping a large percentage of fruit clusters allowed what was left on the vine to ripen fully. J. Lohr's Seven Oaks has always been an oaky cabernet, but the long, cool hang-time in '98 added increased flavour to the wine. Look for black cherry and cassis fruit with vanilla, chocolate, cedar and tobacco flavours in a rich New World style. Merlot and cabernet franc make up 10 per cent of the blend, which in my estimation will continue to improve in the bottle through 2003. See you inside the tasting room. California Producer: Dry Creek Vineyard 1999 Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, Sonoma Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 363333 Score: 15/20 Comments: Superb styling, great fruit. Producer: Estancia Pinnacles 1998 Chardonnay, Monterey Price: $21.95 Stock No.: 322057 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Tasty, friendly. Producer: Ironstone Vineyards 1998 Merlot, Sierra Foothills Price: $18.95 Stock No.: 355792 Score: 14/20 Comments: Ripe, plummy, soft; drink now. Producer: Bonterra Vineyards 1997 Syrah, Mendocino County Price: $24.95 Stock No.: 573709 Score: 16/20 Comments: Above-average organic wine. Producer: Gallo 1997 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley Price: $21.95 Stock No.: 420802 Score: 16/20 Comments: Spicy, rich, ready-to-drink red. Producer: J. Lohr 1998 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles Price: $24.95 Stock No.: 313825 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Full bodied, chunky.