Cabernet Sauvignon - King of the Reds?

It had an appealing dark colour few other red wine grapes possessed. It was weighty and powerful and it was loaded with dry, hard tannins -- the type that leaves your mouth feeling as if you just pulled a fluffy towel out of it.

Back then, the theory was the tannins would fade away over the years revealing the fruit and harmony of this noble grape. It may have been true for the top cabernets of Bordeaux and California (in the best vintages) but for most other examples they simply got drier and harder as they aged and by the time they eventually softened up there was no fruit left.

All that has changed in the last decade and while cabernet has lost considerable ground to merlot and shiraz as a fashionable varietal, modern-day grape growing has transformed young cabernet wines into something much less tannic and aggressive.

The textures are softer and the wine is much more approachable (read drinkable) at a young age. Similarly better ripeness gives the wine a richer mouthfeel and pushes its green herbal flavours into the background

While all this was going on in the vineyard and winery, scientists at the University of California at Davis, using DNA fingerprinting, discovered a surprising fact about the origin of cabernet sauvignon. Apparently it is the result of a cross between red cabernet franc and white sauvignon blanc.

In old France it was quite common for vineyards to be inter-planted to a mix of grape varieties and it's at some point, in one of the inter-mixed vineyards, the fated crossing happened spontaneously resulting in the contemporary cabernet sauvignon grape.

Today's picks explore the modern-day development of the "the king of reds" with examples from Argentina, California and Australia.

First up is the Finca Flichman Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 from Mendoza. Its $11 price tag is a plus as is its peppery, smoky, gamy, blackberry nose. The textures are rich and smooth; the flavours a bit chunky with chocolate, cherry, meaty, smoky tobacco flavours. Well balanced and flavourful -- this is classic Argentina.

Cartlidge & Browne Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 is one of many new California labels taking advantage of some surplus juice and a stronger Canadian dollar to improve the selection of under $20 offerings in Canada. The nose is a mix of spicy, cedar bark and blackberry jam with a peppery, green bean (cabernet) note. There is plenty of supple fruit with cassis, chocolate, black licorice and vanilla flavours. Suave and flavourful this is solid introductory cabernet from the Golden State.

Livermore Valley lies due east of the city of San Francisco and is home to the Wente Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. At Wente, the cabernet is stored in a mix of American and French oak barrels for 13 months before release. The result: soft, round, supple style with spicy blackberry chocolate and prune fruit flavours. There is fine finesse and balance here and just enough tannin on the finish to handle most grilled meats and poultry.

The first thing you notice about the Cypress Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 from California is its bright yellow screwcap. As you might expect sans cork, its cassis jam, pepper and spicy, licorice root aromas jump out of the glass. More cassis, black cherry, pepper and spicy black olive and licorice root flavours mark the palate with a fine dusting of tannin. There is fine intensity and flavour concentration in the finish. Try with grilled veal or chicken.

Consistency is perhaps the finest attribute of any wine, and when it comes to being consistently good, Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label 2001 has few competitors. This "cool" Coonawarra cabernet opens with a string of textbook descriptors: tobacco, leather, mint, cassis and pepper streaked with black olive and coriander. More spice, vanilla, blackberry jam, and cassis flavours mark the palate with minty, tobacco, leather finish. Classic Down Under cabernet.

Still in Australia and hot on the heels of Wynns is Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon Y Series 2002. The cabernet is yet another winner from Yalumba's impressive Y series labels, perhaps the best single series of branded wine to come out of Australia. Look for great colour with plenty of fruit laced with hints of tobacco leaf. The finish is long and smooth with more dark fruit flavours and firm acidity. It's hard to think of a better cabernet for the price. Pick up a bottle and a T-bone steak and dinner is done.

Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine: Finca Flichman Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $10.99
UPC: 7790470006512
Score: 86/100
Comments: Cherry, meaty, smoky Argentina-style cab.

Wine: Cartlidge & Browne Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, California
Price: $18.95
UPC: 011443260135
Score: 87/100
Comments: Suave spicy flavourful red.

Wine: Wente Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Livermore, Calif.
Price: $17.75
UPC: 089636460006
Score: 87/100
Comments: Another round, supple cabernet.

Wine: Cypress Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, California
Price: $18.99
UPC: 089121148426
Score: 88/100
Comments: Ripe, round, soft and drinkable.

Wine: Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label 2001, S. Australia
Price: $21.99
UPC: 12354052000
Score: 90/100
Comments: Solid cabernet with big vanilla and blackberry fruit.

Wine: Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon Y Series 2002, South Australia
Price: $17.99
UPC: 9311789828602
Score: 89/100
Comments: You won't find a better cabernet for the price.