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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Buzzwords

By: Anthony Gismondi
Saturday, February 18 2012

A significant portion of the international wine world is on its way to North America, and eventually, 175 winery principals will make their way to Vancouver, a week Monday, for the 34th Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival.

Buzzwords

It has me thinking a big week of wine lingo is just around the corner, so this is the week-end to share some of the latest buzzwords in the business so you can feel a bit more comfortable when you step inside the International Tasting Room. Even if you are not able to attend the festival, fear not, you can still use any of these buzz-words with your wine drinking friends. Who knows, they may mistake you for a knowledge-able wine geek.

 

The biggest buzz in the business is natural wines. Since there is no definition of "natural," you can go to town on the term, including suggesting, as some have, that natural wines are fault ridden and taste too funky. The parameters begin in the vineyard: no herbicides, no pesticides. After that the conversation wanders to the use of indigenous yeasts versus the commercial variety, sulphur dioxide, tartaric acid, powdered tannins - well you get the drill, any additives are suspect. Diversity and terroir dovetail nicely into the conversation that eventually leads to the need for certification and more explanation. You can start your conversation with organic or bio-dynamic growers and see where it goes from there.

 

Concrete is another hot topic, as in lately many producers are moving away from making wine in stainless steel tanks in favour of old-fashioned concrete containers. Well maybe not so old fashioned but definitely concrete. Advocates cite concrete's ability to maintain a steady temperature during fermentation as its principal advantage, especially at the end of the process. Clean tasting wine is another positive and some claim concrete has a degree of permeability allowing some micro-oxygenation that can lead to softer textures in wine.

 

The minerality discussion is as big as any in the business. What is it? Can you define it? Can you taste it, and indeed if it exists where does it come from? My colleague Bill Zach-arkiw at the Montreal Gazette describes minerality as "as chalky or at times giving a salty sensation." I would agree and add wet stone to that description. But minerality is more than aroma or taste for me. It adds electricity to the wine that makes it taste more alive. High acid wines tend to have more mineral aspects both red and white. But scientists will say it is all nonsense. Ah yes, wine talk.

 

Cool climate is another term widely used by producers who seem to want to imply this is where the best wines are made. The Chileans, like the Californians, are moving to the coast, and/or up, the mountains. The Argentines are already at altitude, and then there is amplitude: the spread between day and nighttime temperatures in a growing region. The bigger the better for many, presumably because it preserves acidity, and acidity takes us in the minerality direction, at least some people think so.

 

Place, origin and appellations are also hot topics. Do you have an appellation? Are you creating an appellation? Can you justify your appellation? Can you taste your appellation? All fair questions for any of the producers in the room. I can't wait to get some answers.

 

In the meantime to keep your palate sharp, here are some new picks you might enjoy this weekend as you work on your buzzwords.

 

The Caliterra Tributo Sauvignon Blanc Single Vine-yard Block Vignoble Algar-robo 2010 hails from the cool Leyda valley in San Antonio, Chile. A long, cool season has shaped this quality Sauvignon Blanc along with three picking times for the grapes spanning a 10-day period. Less is more here (no oak) with fresh, peppery flavours from this single block Sauvignon. Try this with your favourite vegetarian dish.

 

The first time I tasted Anna de Codorníu Brut N/V was more than a decade ago in Spain. I loved the texture and freshness in this 70 per cent Chardonnay sparkler that still delivers, and at a great price. Look for a floral, honey, nutty, spicy, baked pear nose with a fresh, crisp, slightly austere palate. More baked quince, citrus rind, pear, honey, floral flavours mark the palate. Good finesse and length and fine value.

 

The Louis Latour Chardonnay Bourgogne 2010 is one of the best we have tasted in years. Honest, inexpensive and Burgundy-like, it has a fresh nose flecked with citrus, butter and green apple skin. The pal-ate is similarly fresh and lean with texture, complexity and persistence of flavour through-out. Well done and affordable. Great for an assortment of west coast seafood.

 

The latest Cusumano Nero d'Avola 2010 from Sicily hits the mark again. The palate is a mix of tobacco, licorice, black raspberry, orange and plum flavours. It finishes a touch tart but with good fruit and balance. Try this solid-value red with pork ribs.

 

El Petit Bonhomme 2010 hails from Jumilla, Spain and mixes Monastrell, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is attractive with meaty, peppery, black cherry, black raspberry aromas that morph into licorice, smoky, peppery, black cherry and cassis flavours with a warm, savoury finish. Dry and fresh with a slightly lean palate and some dry tannin that calls for grilled beef. Impressive value and it will likely improve in the bottle throughout the year.

 

Our final pick is an impressive Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz blend the Yalumba FDR1A 2008, from Barossa Valley. Expect a supple, elegant palate with peppery, vanilla, clove, coffee, cedar, tobacco, blue-berry and cassis flavours that finish with bits of cigar, tar and licorice. Drinkable now but it will improve in the bottle for the next five years.

 


BUZZWORD WINES

 

Caliterra Tributo Sauvignon Blanc Single Vineyard Block Vignoble Algarrobo 2010, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $18

UPC: 00831573000278

Score: 89/100

Remarks: A fine match for vegetarian dishes.

 

Anna de Codorníu Brut N/V, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

Price: $16

UPC: 8410013261015

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Good finesse and length. Great value.

 

Louis Latour Chardonnay Bourgogne 2010, France

Price: $21

UPC: 02861101175

Score: 88/100

Remarks: One of the best Bourgogne blancs we have tasted in years.

 

Cusumano Nero d'Avola 2010, Sicily, Italy

Price: $18

UPC: 8028262000141

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fine fruit and balance to go with pork or duck. Solid value.

 

El Petit Bonhomme 2010, Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

Price: $15

UPC: 8437005068711

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh licorice, smoky, peppery, meaty, savoury black fruit flavours.

 

Yalumba FDR1A Cabernet Sauvignon/ Shiraz 2008, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price: $32

UPC: 009311789001562

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Round, dry, supple, elegant red with blueberry and cassis flavours.


Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Sample+buzz+wine+festival/6175092/story.html#ixzz1p46VqQtp

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.