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On this New Year's Day I've been thinking about what I really want to drink this year and most of the time my thoughts come back to what I do not want to drink: nameless, faceless wines top the list and, I'm sorry to say, it's a long one.
It's almost as if the popularity of wine during the past 20 years has attracted a large number of what I term "predator" wine companies capable of distributing over-marketed, tasteless plonk around the globe.
News this week backs that up.
Constellation, the giant American wine company that owns a significant portion of the Canadian wine business, is dumping 80 per cent of its ownership in Australian, South African and U.K. businesses, stating it no longer fits with its brand strategy.
The sale is listed at $290 million: a far cry from the $1.9 billion it paid for the assets. It's hard to know what the Constellation strategy is.
Perhaps 2011 will be the year we begin to take back the vineyards, and while we are at it, pay more attention to the viticulturalists and winemakers who are working one-on-one with the land. Wine that comes from somewhere and is made by somebody is the only sensible rule to adopt if you are serious about getting the most for your money.
This week we look at wines with a certain pedigree that as it turns out do not cost a lot of money.
Reports that Canadians are heading into debt in record numbers further inspires us to make sure that wine is not responsible for weighing our budgets down. Keep in mind that not every bottle need be a heavily oaked, high-alcohol, fruit-bomb blockbuster. Subtlety and a sense of style can be equally attractive in a wine and is well worth exploring.
Our first pick is an amazing value at $15. Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2010 comes from the Valle de Casablanca, a cool valley that lies about 45 minutes to the west of Santiago and is heavily influenced by the cool Pacific Ocean. Expect a gooseberry, zesty grapefruit, nettle, lemon herb nose with crisp, juicy but slightly austere flavours. Nettles, lemon grass, herbal, grapefruit rind flavours dominate its pure and correct lime and herb finish. Delicious drinking now with simple fish dishes or oysters.
The Cottesbrook Sauvignon Blanc 2009 is a pleasant discovery from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. New Zealand sauvignon blanc producers have been under pressure to reduce prices during the recession and at $15, a white that smells of lemon grass, lightly smoked jalapeno, grapefruit and gooseberry is an attractive value. The palate is soft, round and fresh. Fun to drink.
Organic blends will be popular moving forward. This Emiliana Etnico Limited Edition Reserva Shiraz 2007 has a dried dill, thyme, peppery, meaty, tobacco nose with a floral, sappy cassis note and a dry fresh, round entry with light tannins. On the palate, more tobacco leaf, sappy cassis, cedar, coffee, peppery, clove flavours call for hamburgers or grilled meat dishes.
Check out the label on the Barbera da Vine 2007, a definite throwback to the old days of Piedmont, while the style of this red is totally modern. Expect a smoky, peppery, black cherry, almond, meaty red flecked with tobacco, resin and dried herb aromas. The entry is fresh and supple with a slightly tannic palate and a whack of cherry jam, orange peel, coffee, tobacco and floral, licorice root flavours. A bit warm with that Barbera acidity but with the right dishes, such as roast lamb or steak tartare, it will be a perfect pick. It should also age well for another two to three years in bottle.
The San Pedro 35 South Shiraz Reserva 2009 definitely over-delivers for the price. San Pedro is one of those wineries lost in ownership and distribution battles over the years but don't let that stop you trying this wine. We love its meaty, spicy, blueberry, black cherry, peppery, licorice root aromas.
The palate is soft, fresh and dry with black cherry, licorice, peppery, blueberry, smoky, gamy, savoury flavours. Solid value here and a champ around the barbecue.
Our last pick is the first of many this winter that will look at what's coming out of Spain, theme country at the coming Playhouse Wine Festival. Torres Sangre de Toro 2007 is a classic garnacha/cariñena blend from the Penedès region north of Barcelona. Like most inexpensive red under screw cap the nose is slightly reductive or stinky but that blows off after decanting or sitting in the glass for a few minutes. Expect a soft, juicy style red with earthy, spicy black fruit flavours and a dash of orange peel. Simple but solid red for those rustic winter stews, hamburgers and mushroom dishes. Good value.
OUR PICKS
Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Valle de Casablanca, Chile Price: $15
UPC: 07804613410019 Score: 87/100
Remarks: Delicious drinking now. Oysters anyone?
Cottesbrook Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand Price: $15
UPC: 009419453000887 Score: 87/100
Remarks: Lemon grass, jalapeno, grapefruit, gooseberry notes.
Emiliana Etnico Limited Edition Reserva 2007, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile
Price: $15
UPC: 7804320365954
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Made from organic grapes serve with medium rare beef.
Barbera da Vine 2007, Piedmont, Italy
Price: $15
UPC: 8010471003198
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Smoky, peppery, black cherry flavours with bright acidity.
San Pedro 35 South Shiraz Reserva 2009, Chile
Price: $14
UPC: 007804300123321
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Black cherry, licorice, blueberry, smoky, gamey, savoury flavours.
Torres Sangre de Toro 2007 Garnacha/Carinena blend, Penedes, Catalunya, Spain
Price: $14
UPC: 008410113003294
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Solid red for those rustic winter stews, hamburgers and mushroom dishes.
