Bubble Prices Fizz-le Out Everywhere But Canada

Prices have tumbled in most major cities around the world. In London, often hailed as the export home of champagne, supermarket buyers will be offering many brands at 50 per cent off the regular price! Please note I've been saving that exclamation mark for the entire year, but at 14.39 pounds per bottle or $24 Cdn I had to use it.

Unfortunately, those kinds of savings will not be available here in British Columbia. The price of fizz has softened, but given that our taxes are among the highest anywhere on the globe, even a substantial 10-per-cent price reduction in stores is barely noticeable. In any event, nothing that happens out in the real world of wine can occur inside the unreal "bubble world" of provincial wine monopolies. One can only hope visiting Olympic revellers will complain vociferously about being hosed every time they quench their thirst.

That said, New Year's is almost upon us and with it comes with the urge to celebrate something, even if it is just the start of the end of an ugly, economic downturn. My thinking is, if you are planning to stay home on New Year's then whatever you serve is at least half the price of what it would be in restaurants -- so why not lash out and bring in the New Year with a bit of style? Here is some of the best bubble in its class that I have enjoyed this year.

Locally, your best bet is the Sumac Ridge Pinnacle Methode Classique 2001. After eight years in the bottle, it is fully ready to uncork. Expect a fairly reserved style with toasty, lemon, nutty, baked apple aromas and a very crisp, fresh, dry and zippy palate. Similar flavours of nutty, mineral, citrus and sour cherry with a dash of earth call for small bites of assorted tapas. In fact it is more like a Spanish cava in style than you might expect.

Speaking of Spain, your choices are numerous in this category. Sparklers we like (and prices are down) include: Segura Viudas Brut ($14), Freixenet Cordon Negro ($14) and Codorniu Cuvee Raventos Brut ($19), but the nod this year goes to Pares Balta N/V Cava Brut B. The non-vintage blend of organic macabeo, xarello and parellada grapes is delicious. The styling is dry with a fine creamy mousse. Similar creamy, nutty, mineral, floral flavours mark its elegant fruity palate. I love the sophistication for the price. Good value here and very food friendly. After all that, the packaging is nifty too.

From Italy it seems you can't get enough of the soft round Prosecco bubble so I'm recommending the Astoria Cuvee Tenuta Val de Brun Prosecco 2007 from the Veneto region. The palate is creamy and slightly sweet with big red apple, cooked pear and spicy, floral, citrus, nutty flavours. A perfect pre-dinner sipper.

The best bargains in champagne this month come from three different houses. Collectors and connoisseurs have long admired the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve N/V that was disgorged off its sediment, topped-up and rebottled in 2007. That's over five years of bottle age that contributes to its nutty, toasty, baked apple nose that is spiked with citrus, ripe pear and honey aromas. The palate is crisp and dry as you would expect, but the mousse is delicate and refined in the mouth. Look for rich nutty, oatmeal, honey, baked citrus and green apple flavours that persist from the front of the palate to the back. It has wonderful finesse and a dry finish in a more mature style for current drinking. At $57 it is hard to beat this month. Buy two and party on.

The Piper-Heidsieck Brut N/V Brut is flying off the shelves in B.C. at only $56. The style here is a bit softer and simpler than the Charles Heidsieck. Look for a fresh brioche, toasted, green apple, citrus nose with ripe baked pear aromas and white flowers. On the palate it is fresh and crisp with fairly tight acidity to set off its nutty, citrus, baked quince flavours. A crisp dry, lighter style bubble with a slightly austere finish. Best with finger food.

There is something friendly about the Deutz Brut Classic N/V with its refined mousse and attractive leesy nose. The blend is almost equal parts pinot noir/pinot meunier/chardonnay that exudes a rich but balanced style with creamy, toasty, nutty citrus aromas and flavours. Subtlety and style are so well balanced it is at home with or without food. Enjoy with sushi or sashimi or simply with oven-warmed cheese twists.

Happy New Year. We will be back next week for a look ahead at the wine business for 2010.

Price: $35

UPC: 778876013966

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Toasty, nutty, mineral, sour cherry, citrus flavours. Almost cava-like.

PARES BALTA CAVA BRUT B N/V, PENEDES, CATALUNYA, SPAIN

Price: $20

UPC: 8410439034354

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Creamy, nutty, mineral, floral flavours. Organic, clean and sophisticated. Good value.

ASTORIA CUVEE TENUTA VAL DE BRUN PROSECCO 2007, VENETO, ITALY

Price: $25

UPC: 008003905096347

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Lots of fruit and creamy mousse with touch of sweetness.

CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT RESERVE (DISGORGEMENT 2007) N/V, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE

Price: $56

UPC: 03037900002787

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Good finesse, dry finish in a more mature style for current drinking. Solid value.

PIPER-HEIDSIECK BRUT N/V, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE

Price: $57

UPC: 3018334100003

Score 89/100

Remarks: Fresh brioche, green apple, citrus nose and baked quince flavours.

DEUTZ BRUT CLASSIC N/V, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE

Price: $65

UPC: 00339952005005

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Subtlety, style and balanced. Enjoy with sushi or sashimi.