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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Wednesday, December 11 2013

Style is one of those words we're not supposed to use when we write about wine because it means different things to different people.

But like it or not Champagne has style and if you taste enough, or simply pay attention to what comes your way over the years, you too will come to recognize that indeed the Pol Roger is different from the Veuve Clicquot.

The subtle nuances that contrast the light and the ethereal against the heavier, richer offerings or the toasted/biscuit-y style versus the fresh, citrus, fruity offerings are the basis of all comparisons that ultimately establish a champagne producer's "house" style.

Blending is at the heart of any champagne's style and it begins with the fruit. There are three major grapes used in champagne and it's the mix of the varieties that defines the house style. When pinot noir dominates the blend the wine is noticeably richer. The extra body and weight that stems from the power of pinot noir also lends the sparkler the ability to age longer in bottle further increasing the complexity and strength of the wine.

If chardonnay is the focus, the wines tend to have a leaner structure that often appears lighter and creamier in the mouth. Elegance and finesse are the hallmark of exceptional chardonnay and with few exceptions this style is often better appreciated when young, at least here in North America.

Pinot meunier is the region's swing the grape. In essence this is the fruit component that while it is never as prominent in champagne as it might be in sparkling wines from the United States or Australia, it does a play an important role in the final assemblage or blend.

The following reviews are restricted to the broad category of champagne known as non-vintage Brut. Interestingly the somewhat derogatory term non-vintage is an expression many champagne houses are moving away from preferring instead to describe these sparkling jewels for what they are: multi-vintage, multi-blended wines in effect containing different grapes, from scores of vineyards that more often than not contain one or more years of reserve wine.

It's the flexibility to add older wines and draw from a diverse range of vineyards that allows each Champagne house to reproduce a consistent taste and or house style year in and year out - not unlike a fine cognac or blended whiskey. What follows is a review of some of the more popular non-vintage blends available across the country with a brief comment about its style. Hopefully it will help you celebrate the holidays in a style tailored to your liking.


NON-VINTAGE BRUTS

91/100 Ayala Majeau Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Expect a fine, persistent mousse. A toasty brioche, light nutty, baked apple nose with honey, cherry and anise scents. Very fresh, tight mousse palate, slightly foamy in a drier brut style. Honey, toasty, nutty, floral, raspberry, granny smith flavours. Good concentration and persistence on the finish with very good acidity. A terrific bottle of champagne for the price. The blend is pinot noir (45%), chardonnay (35%) and pinot meunier (20%).
Tasted: 2013-12-06 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $60.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 817601;   UPC: 3113841001000
Producer: Ayala
Distributor: Authentic Wine and Spirits Merchants; Renaissance Wine Merchants Ltd.

92/100 Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (Dégorgement 2009) N/V
Champagne, France
Fresh delicate nutty, brioche nose with baked apple, waxy, light honey and cream aromas. Equally fresh, crisp, elegant palate with fine mousse and spicy, nutty, toasty, citrus, baked apple, juicy pear, cherry and tropical flavours. Fine balance and finish with lots of bottle development. Impressive fresh mouth-filling bubble that over-delivers for the price.
Tasted: 2012-11-22 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $72.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $61.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $55.00 (750 ml); ON $55.00 (750 ml) Vintages; QC $61.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 31286;   UPC: 03037900002787
Producer: Champagne Charles Heidsieck
Distributor: Select Wines & Spirits

90/100 Champagne Delamotte Brut N/V
Champagne, France
The fruit, chardonnay (50), pinot noir (35-40) and pinot meunier (10-15) is all Grand Cru status and aged a minimum of three years on the lees prior to release or more than twice 15 months the legal minimum for Brut Champagne. The nose is clean and fresh with hints of mineral and seawater. The palate is similarly styled with creamy citrus fruit flecked with chalky minerality. Delicious apéritif.
Tasted: 2007-05-20 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $50.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $54.99 (750 ml) speculative listing - Free House Wine & Spirits; ON $43.80 (750 ml) Vintages
CSPC: 362897
Producer: Champagne Delamotte
Distributor: Free House Wine & Spirits Ltd.; Le Maitre ce Chai; Tastevin Selections

90/100 Champagne Diebolt-Vallois Cuvee Prestige Blanc de Blancs N/V
Champagne, France
Fine continuous mousse with green apple, pear skin, floral, citrus, toasty, chalky, seashell aromas entice. Fresh, juicy, slightly sweet brut with creamy mousse and fine acidity that preview more citrus, honey, orange, granny smith, pear, creamy, toasty brioche flavours. Simple but elegant and pure style that will attract oenophiles and general consumers alike. Oysters anyone.
Tasted: 2012-03-17 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $57.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $79.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Liquid Art Selections
Producer: Champagne Diebolt-Vallois
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections

89/100 Champagne Diebolt-Vallois Brut Rose N/V
Champagne, France
Lots of fine mousse with a pale orange colour. Cherry, floral, honey, toasty, green apple and citrus aromas. Round, full, slightly soft but good mousse with very toasty, nutty, butter, cherry, spicy, baked pear and citrus flavours. A bit fatter than the chardonnay versions but good intensity.
Tasted: 2012-11-22 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $57.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $70.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Liquid Art Selections
Producer: Champagne Diebolt-Vallois
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections

90/100 G. H. Mumm Brut Cordon Rouge N/V
Champagne, France 
Brioche, spicy, baked pear, honey, toasty, baked apple, citrus, creamy aromas. Fresh, crisp, medium sweetness brut style with good acidity. Toasty, marzipan, brioche, honey, citrus, baked pear and apple flavours. A bit lighter style but has good flavours and balance with a juicy, brioche finish. Will appeal to almost everyone.
Tasted: 2011-12-23 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $60.00 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $60.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; BC $35.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $64.00 (750 ml); NB $60.00 (750 ml); NF $65.00 (750 ml); NS $64.00 (750 ml); ON $60.00 (750 ml) LCBO; QC $135.00 (1500 ml) fine wine boutiques; QC $60.00 (750 ml); QC $63.00 (750 ml); SK $50.00 (750 ml); YK $64.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 308056; UPC: 633438103816
Producer: G. H. Mumm & Cie
Distributor: Corby Distilleries Limited

91/100 Gosset Grand Reserve Brut N/V
Champagne, France
It was fun to rediscover this sparkler after several years. The blend, including a portion of old-oak aged wine is roughly one half chardonnay, one third pinot noir and the remainder pinot meunier and a dash of pinot gris including 10-12 percent reserve wine from two vintages. Rich and round on entry with brioche, pear, floral, baked apple, cherry aromas that set the stage for an elegant, crisp mid-palate and more citrus, honey, baked granny smith and more toasted brioche flavours.
Tasted: 2012-10-01 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $75.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $68.00 (750 ml); QC $62.50 (750 ml)
CSPC: 213983;   UPC: 3353210012217
Producer: Champagne Gosset
Distributor: Trialto Wine Group Ltd.

91/100 H. Billiot Fils Brut Reserve Champagne N/V
Champagne, France
Fine mousse with a toasty, nutty, cherry, baked apple, floral, citrus, creamy aromas. Ripe round, full, juicy, somewhat sweet brut but well balanced. Ripe cherry, strawberry, citrus, baked apple, honey, toasty flavours. Good intensity and juicy, slightly sweet finish in a forward, attractive style for most consumers. Offers good value.
Tasted: 2012-03-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $60.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Liquid Art Selections
CSPC: 525436
Producer: Champagne H. Billiot Fils
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections

89/100 Champagne Jean Milan Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Special N/V
Champagne, France
Good fine, continuous white mousse. Very nutty, toasty, baked apple, honey, citrus, pear and floral aromas. Crisp, creamy palate with buttery, honey, baked pear, green apple skin, citrus and guava flavours. Good citrusy, nutty finish if a bit bitter at the end. More firendly style.
Tasted: 2012-09-20 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $57.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $60.00 (750 ml) speculative - Liquid Art Fine Wines
Producer: Champagne Jean Milan
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections
 
96/100 Krug Grande Cuvee N/V
Champagne, France
The latest cuvee is marvellous. So fresh and so intense; so impressive on entry. Crisp elegant and dry but structured with high acidity and fine, creamy mousse. A high proportion of reserve wine gives it a nutty, toasty flavour flecked with citrus, honey, quince, lemon and earthy, mineral notes and a persistent dry, rich finish. More intense and concentrated than almost any other champagne but also austere and drier. Ready to drink now but will hold for many years. More like a table wine with its intensity yet impeccable balance and acidity. Top flight bubble.
Tasted: 2009-11-22 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $248.00 (750 ml); BC $255.00 (750 ml); BC $613.00 (1500 ml) speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs; BC $119.00 (375 ml) speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs; NS $218.00 (750 ml); ON $270.00 (750 ml); QC $273.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 349688; UPC: 03258060111014
Producer: Champagne Krug
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

96/100 Krug Grande Cuvee N/V
Champagne, France
Grand Cuvée is the signature Krug. So intense, so electric, so dry and fresh. Is this really made with grapes? A high proportion of reserve wine from six to ten vintages lend it a nutty, mature flavour flecked with citrus, honey, quince, lemon and mineral flavours. Long, persistent, incredibly nuanced it has no peer among multi-vintage blends.
Tasted: 2012-05-21 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $248.00 (750 ml); BC $255.00 (750 ml); NF $272.00 (750 ml); NS $250.00 (750 ml); ON $245.00 (750 ml) LCBO - Vintages; ON $549.00 (1500 ml) LCBO; QC $275.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 349688;   UPC: 03258060111014
Producer: Champagne Krug
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

91/100 Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru N/V
Champagne, France
Made with natural yeast and malolactic fermentation, this has very fine mousse with toasty floral, baked apple, pear, nutty, citrus aromas. Fresh, elegant, creamy, toasty, nutty, spicy, baked pear and honey flavours. Good toasty, brioche, creamy mousse finish. Nice finesse in a more mature style for those that like it extra nutty and toasty.
Tasted: 2012-09-19 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $73.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Liquid Art Selections
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections

90/100 Lanson Black Label Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Lots of fine continuous mousse with a toasty lees, nutty, floral, baked pear, floral and green apple nose. Crisp, juicy, drier brut with pinprick mousse. Very toasty, nutty lees, green apple, lemon, honey flavours. Finish is somewhat austere and tight. Elegant style that will go well with food to match the finishing acidity.
Tasted: 2013-12-10 by AG
Prices: AB $59.00 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $65.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $52.00 (750 ml) Vintages Essentials
CSPC: 041889;   UPC: 692743002863
Producer: Champagne Lanson
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants

90/100 Lanson Brut Rosé N/V
Champagne, France
Pale pink raspberry hue with fine mousse. Nutty, cherry, creamy, mineral, baked pear aromas with a touch of citrus and biscuit. Fresh, just off dry, crisp and round with toasty, cherry, citrus, honey, mineral and baked pear flavours. Continued good finesse and length with fruit and good acidity balance.
Tasted: 2008-12-20 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $65.00 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $70.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $65.00 (750 ml); ON $50.00 (750 ml) Vintages; ON $30.00 (375 ml); QC $59.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 172130; UPC: 692743004089
Producer: Champagne Lanson
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants

89/100 Laurent Perrier Brut L-P N/V
Champagne, France
Fine tiny mousse. Lemon, green apple, toasty pear, strawberry, light toasty nose. Light, elegant, crisp palate with moderate mousse. Cherry, toasty, baked apple, citrus, quince and honey flavours. A bit short on the finish but nice fruit flavours that will appeal to all.
Tasted: 2007-12-09 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $60.99 (750 ml)
CSPC: 001834; UPC: 626990017059
Producer: Champagne Laurent-Perrier
Distributor: Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd

91/100 Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Light raspberry salmon colour. Fine continuous mousse with nutty, toasty, citrus, cherry, creamy raspberry aromas. Round, elegant and balanced with a slight fatness. Fine cherry, strawberry, toasty, nutty, creamy mineral flavours with a baked apple, light bitter cherry finish. Very good rose made from 100 per cent pinot noir.
Tasted: 2007-11-19 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $95.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $99.00 (750 ml); ON $90.00 (750 ml) Vintages Essentials; QC $97.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 158550; UPC: 3258438000001
Producer: Champagne Laurent-Perrier
Distributor: Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd

92 Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle N/V Chardonnay - Pinot Noir
Champagne, France
BC $132 specialty listing, AB $111, QC $137
Very fine effervescence. Brioche, floral, strawberry, mineral, nutty, toasty baked apple and creamy citrus aromas. Rich, round, crisp and fresh wit very toasty, nutty, creamy, floral, citrus, mineral flavours and a very creamy, quince, citrus finish. Young with finesse but needs 2-5 years to really strut its stuff. A 50/50 blend of pinot and chardonnay all from 100 per cent rated grand cru vineyards.

90/100 Le Marquis de Marillac Brut NV N/V
Champagne, France
Good fine mousse. Toasty, nutty, spicy, floral, citrus, baked pear aromas. Fresh, round, crisp, juicy palate on the sweeter brut side. Pear, orange, citrus, apple, honey, nutty flavours. A juicy, fuller, creamy style for general consumers. Good value.
Tasted: 2009-10-21 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $45.00 (750 ml) speculative - The Seacove Group
Producer: Champagne de Venoge
Distributor: The Seacove Group Inc.

91/100 Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagne N/V
Champagne, France
Brut Premier continues to bring a touch of sophistication to the N/V Brut market with its fruity, mineral, oyster shell nutty nose and floral undertones. The entry is a creamy mix of nutty toasted notes and lemon with a clean fresh precise finish. The blend is two thirds pinot noir, one third chardonnay with a splash of pinot meunier. The secret is nearly one third cask aged reserve wine. A multi-vintage champagne for the discriminating sipper.
Tasted: 2013-12-12 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $64.00 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $68.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; BC $34.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Authentic Wine and Spirits; MB $66.00 (750 ml); NF $70.00 (750 ml); NS $60.00 (750 ml); ON $68.00 (750 ml) Vintages Essentials; ON $319.00 (750 ml); QC $66.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 268771;   UPC: 3114080016053
Producer: Champagne Louis Roederer
Distributor: Authentic Wine and Spirits Merchants

Champagne Louis de Sacy Brut Grand Cru Kasher N/V
Champagne, France
A rarity in champagne, this is truly a kosher offering which is essentially the same as the normal Grand Cru bottling. Fine white mousse with citrus, toasty, baked apple, pear, waxy, almond and sour cherry aromas. Fresh, crisp, drier, brut style with juicy acidity and creamy mousse. Lemon, baked green apple, pear, light raspberry, toasty almond flavours. A fresh, elegant, juicy style with a bit of sweetness on the finish. A very attractive style for current drinking. Good value here.
Tasted: 2013-11-28 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $75.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Choice Import Agencies
CSPC: 30411;   UPC: 3184710002237
Producer: Louis de Sacy, Champagne
Distributor: Choice Import Agencies

90/100 Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial Rosé N/V
Champagne, France
Pale pink/orange colour invites. The nose is fresh with floral strawberry hints with bits of grass and chalk. The palate is pleasing soft with no aggressive acidity and fresh, spicy red fruit. Ripe strawberry, spicy, citrus/peach stone fruit flavours throughout and more creamy notes. An elegant style you can serve with grilled shellfish, carpaccio and or salmon. The mix is 40 to 50% pinot noir with 30 to 40% pinot meunier and 10 to 20% with about 10 percent red wine.
Tasted: 2013-11-24 by AG
Prices: BC $75.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $71.00 (750 ml); QC $73.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 482026;   UPC: 03185370074831
Producer: Moet & Chandon
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

90/100 Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial N/V
Champagne, France
Fine continuous mousse. Nice toasty, lemon curd, baked granny smith, pear, cashew and peach pit aromas. Crisp, juicy, drier brut with creamy, fine mousse. Lemon, granny smith, cashew, brioche, spicy, pear skin flavours. Good finesse and creamy, citrusy flavour finish. A bit more austere than in the past and more food friendly.
Tasted: 2013-12-10 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $50.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $65.49 (750 ml) specialty listing; BC $143.00 (1500 ml) specialty listing; BC $37.25 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $56.00 (750 ml); NB $60.00 (750 ml); NS $64.00 (750 ml); ON $60.00 (750 ml); QC $63.00 (750 ml); SK $50.80 (750 ml); YK $65.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 482026;   UPC: 3185370000335
Producer: Moet & Chandon
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

90/100 Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial N/V
Champagne, France
Very fine continuous mousse. Floral, honey, baked green apple, pear skin, guava and toast aromas. Fresh, juicy, somewhat sweet style but well balanced with creamy mousse. Very toasty, nutty, honey, baked pear, peach, apple skin and candied citrus flavours. Nice balance and finesse but definitely on the sweet side of the style. Designed for after dinner or perhaps a rich, spicy pre-dinner appetizer.
Tasted: 2013-12-12 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $65.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $72.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $70.00 (750 ml); NF $70.00 (750 ml); ON $66.00 (750 ml); QC $68.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 509695;   UPC: 3185370000397
Producer: Moet & Chandon
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

92/100 Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé N/V
Champagne, France
Bright, fresh, red fruit scents on the nose with a strong, mineral undertone. A creamy persistent mousse makes for a smooth entry and very fruity mid-palate offering up bits of strawberry, raspberry, cherry, baked apple and nutty citrus flavours. A sparkler that looks as delicious as it tastes. Try it with Asian pork dishes and assorted other appetizers.
Tasted: 2009-11-28 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $58.00 (750 ml) private wine stores; BC $70.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $58.00 (750 ml) LCBO; QC $65.00 (750 ml) private wine stores
CSPC: 080184; UPC: 03282946013192
Producer: Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte
Distributor: International Cellars Inc.


90/100 Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Réserve N/V
Champagne, France
The blend is 40% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay, 40% pinot meunier. Good solid medium fine mousse with creamy, baked apple, pear, light brioche, honey, cashew and citrus aromas. Fresh, juicy, crisp palate with light sweetness. Toasty nut, spicy, citrus, baked green apple, honey and peach pit flavours. Good solid juicy style.
Tasted: 2013-12-09 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $55.00 (750 ml) private wine stores; BC $65.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $50.00 (750 ml) LCBO; QC $52.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 080283;   UPC: 3282946006835
Producer: Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte
Distributor: International Cellars Inc.

90/100 Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé N/V
Champagne, France
Pale raspberry/orange colour with fine, continuous mousse. Light strawberry, baked apple, toasty, nutty, citrus nose with honey aromas. Fresh, juicy, creamy palate with solid mousse. Slightly sweeter brut but good acidity with toasty, nutty, honey, strawberry, candied lemon, anise flavours. Good solid rose with crisp finish but good length. Attractive style for food either mains or appetizers.
Tasted: 2013-12-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $58.00 (750 ml) private wine stores; BC $70.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; ON $58.00 (750 ml) LCBO; QC $65.00 (750 ml) private wine stores
CSPC: 080184;   UPC: 03282946013192
Producer: Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte
Distributor: International Cellars Inc.

91/100 Champagne Pierre Gimonnet Brut Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs N/V
Champagne, France
Good fine mousse with floral, green apple, pear, citrus, nutty, toasty, slightly buttery aromas. Ripe, full, round, slightly sweet and foamy palate with good acidity and freshness. Toasty, baked apple, honey, nutty, citrus, pear skin and lemon flavours. Good intensity and length with lots of citrus but a somewhat coarse finish. Best with tapas-like appetizers.
Tasted: 2012-09-19 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $60.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $64.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Liquid Art Selections; QC $60.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 728224
Producer: Champagne Pierre Gimonnet
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections

91/100 Perrier - Jouët Grand Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Medium fine white mousse. Toasty, nutty, baked apple, spicy, citrus, pear skin and spice aromas. Fresh, crisper, medium weight palate with fine mousse and a juicy edge. Marzipan, toasty, baked pear, citrus peel, green apple flavours with a touch of honey. A bit more austere but full with good acidity structure. Will be best with appetizers.
Tasted: 2011-12-23 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $67.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $67.00 (750 ml); ON $64.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 050278;   UPC: 00633438300109
Producer: Perrier Jouët
Distributor: Corby Distilleries Limited

90/100 Piper-Heidsieck Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Medium fine mousse. Toasty, nutty, light butter, honey, creamy, baked pear, light strawberry and tobacco aromas. Fresh, creamy mousse with nice acidity and sweetness balance. Honey, baked pear, baked green apple, spicy, nutty, butter, and quince, citrus and strawberry flavours. Good finish with length and elegance. Continued improvement here.
Tasted: 2012-12-03 by AG
Prices: AB $54.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $65.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; BC $36.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $55.00 (750 ml); NB $52.00 (750 ml); NS $61.00 (750 ml); ON $50.00 (750 ml); QC $60.00 (750 ml); SK $50.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 462432;   UPC: 3018334100003
Producer: Champagne Piper Heidsieck
Distributor: Select Wines & Spirits

91/100 Piper-Heidsieck Brut Rosé Sauvage N/V
Champagne, France
Lots of pink-raspberry colour. Raspberry, cream, nutty, tobacco leaf, baked red apple, citrus and earth aromas. Crisp, round, moderately dry brut with good continuous mousse and flavour intensity. Nice citrus, creamy, nutty, raspberry, mineral, baked pear, tobacco flavours with a bit of almond on the finish. Very stylish with good fruit intensity and balance. Will go well with food like duck confit or pork tenderloin.
Tasted: 2009-02-08 by AG
Prices: AB $65.00 (750 ml); BC $95.95 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $86.00 (750 ml); NS $69.00 (750 ml); QC $77.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 186650; UPC: 03018336150013
Producer: Champagne Piper Heidsieck
Distributor: Select Wine Merchants

90/100 Pol Roger Brut Reserve N/V
Champagne, France
You will love the fine persistent mousse and its ethereal floral, baked apple, toasted nut and citrus aromas. So fresh and attractive and typical Pol Roger mixing elegance, creamy textures and fruit effortlessly. The palate is reminiscent of baked green apple, honey and citrus soaked nuts. A super wine to open when you need a bottle for an array of appetizers and one that will command your visitor's attention.
Tasted: 2012-09-24 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $60.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $66.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; BC $39.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $53.00 (750 ml); NF $66.00 (750 ml); NS $33.00 (750 ml); ON $60.00 (750 ml); QC $63.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 051953;   UPC: 089744142450
Producer: Champagne Pol Roger
Distributor: The Bacchus Group Inc.

90/100 Pommery Brut Royal N/V
Champagne, France
Pale yellow with light, fine mousse. Toasty, slightly nutty, baked apple, honey, brioche, floral, light cherry aromas. Crisp, moderately dry, slightly foamy palate with cherry, nutty, citrus, baked green apple, mineral, creamy, toasty flavours. Good acidity and finesse with a touch of sweetness on the finish. Attractive consumer style for current drinking.
Tasted: 2009-05-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $57.00 (750 ml) fine wine shops; BC $64.50 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $59.00 (750 ml); QC $61.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 346106; UPC: 694190003059
Producer: Champagne Pommery
Distributor: Calibrium International

88/100 Pommery Champagne Pop Extra Dry N/V
Champagne, France
Very toasty, biscuit-y, buttery, strawberry, baked apple aromas. Fresh, round, light mousse on the palate with green apple, nutty, citrus, strawberry, pear flavours. Mature, crisp, fruity style in a fun quarter-bottle format complete with blue glass, POP is authentic non-vintage bubble that's ready to drink when you are. You can drink it through a straw or straight from the bottle club-style.
Tasted: 2009-05-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $17.20 (750 ml) private wine stores; BC $19.00 (200 ml) specialty listing; MB $21.00 (750 ml); QC $16.10 (750 ml)
CSPC: 574863; UPC: 694190006159
Producer: Champagne Pommery
Distributor: Calibrium International

92/100 Ruinart Blanc de Blancs N/V
Champagne, France
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is all chardonnay made from a blend of vintages. The style is elegant beginning with its refined creamy mousse. The flavours are a subtle mix of dried fruits with wet stones and nectarine skin all wrap in a floral/honey scented finish. You will love its delicate nutty, creamy fresh brioche notes throughout. Add to this a spectacular clear bottle presentation and you have champagne that melts hearts.
Tasted: 2012-01-03 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $80.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $90.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Charton-Hobbs; QC $90.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 445445;   UPC: 3185370303405
Producer: Ruinart Champagne
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

92/100 Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus N/V
Champagne, France
Very pale yellow colour previews a fine, tight bead of continuous mousse. Honey, toasted, baked pear nose with dry citrus, light floral and green apple aromas with a touch of strawberry. Crisp, juicy, full palate with some sweetness along with a rich toasty, nutty, spicy, baked pear, apple skin, honey, butter and lemon flavours. Full, rich style but with some austerity and restraint in the backend. Perfect for lightly spiced, Asian dishes.
Tasted: 2012-05-13 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $75.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; QC $75.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 385062;   UPC: 003016570050380
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
Distributor: Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc.; Pacific Wine Partners
 
91/100 Taittinger Brut Reserve N/V
Champagne, France
Identical twin to last edition with toasty, honey, baked pear, light strawberry and citrus aromas. Fresh, clean, fairly dry and very elegant with fine mousse. Light toasty, pear skin, citrus, baked green apple, honey, strawberry, citrus flavours. Refined and balanced on the finish. A consistently delicious and attractive style.
Tasted: 2012-05-13 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $63.00 (750 ml) private wine shop; BC $65.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; BC $45.00 (375 ml) speculative listing - Pacific Wine and Spirits; BC $150.00 (1500 ml) speculative listing - Pacific Wine and Spirits; MB $53.00 (750 ml); ON $54.00 (750 ml); QC $64.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 457713;   UPC: 3016570001030
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
Distributor: Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc.; Pacific Wine Partners

90/100 Taittinger Nocturne Sec N/V
Champagne, France
From the sweet side at 20g/l of sugar at dosage look for a fragrant, toasted, baked apple nose with a commensurate amount of minerality. Full bodied with good acidity balance and more complex notes of spice, brioche, citrus and cherry flavours. East to drink with a little less austerity on the palate. Think foie gras or desserts.
Tasted: 2011-05-20 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $82.00 (750 ml) Everything Wine; QC $77.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 385088;   UPC: 3016570000668
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
Distributor: Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc.; Pacific Wine Partners

91/100 Taittinger Nocturne Rose N/V
Champagne, France
A 30/70 mix of chardonnay and pinot noir fruit. Expect a medium fine mousse with light raspberry colour. Enticing baked pear, apple skin, and brioche, light cherry and strawberry aromas with a touch of citrus. Fresh, creamy mousse on the palate with excellent finesse. Slightly sweet with good acidity showing baked apple, honey, brioche, toasty, spicy, strawberry and citrus flavours. Fine fruit and balance in a slightly fuller and sweeter style. Think spicy appetizers or food for the perfect match.
Tasted: 2013-08-29 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $82.00 (750 ml) Everything Wine; QC $77.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 385088;   UPC: 3016570000330
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
Distributor: Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc.; Pacific Wine Partners

92/100 Champagne Varnier-Fanniere Cuvee St. Denis Brut Grand Cru N/V
Champagne, France
Made from a single vineyard of old chardonnay vines, this has fine continuous mousse with a floral, toasty, nutty, anise, citrus rind, baked apple, toasty aromas, and a somewhat mature nose. Full, round, creamy mousse with good acidity and some brut sweetness but juicy. Nutty, creamy, toasty brioche, baked apple, honey and warm citrus flavours. A bit austere on the finish but also has length and intensity to lend itself to match well with food.
Tasted: 2012-03-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $74.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - Liquid Art Selections
Producer: Champagne Varnier-Fanniere
Distributor: Liquid Art Selections
 
90/100 de Venoge Blanc de Noirs Brut N/V
Champagne, France
This wine is 80 percent pinot noir, 20 percent pinot meunier and spends four years en tirage. good solid fine mousse with toasty, nutty, baked apple, light raspberry and citrus aromas. On the palate there is citrus, nutty, baked apple, earthy spice flavours. Very crisp but elegant and well balanced with good body.
Tasted: 2012-10-22 by AG
Prices: BC $75.00 (750 ml) speculative - Seacove Group
CSPC: 531129;   UPC: 867853400124
Producer: Champagne de Venoge
Distributor: Seacove Premium Wines & Spirits
 
90/100 de Venoge Vin du Paradis Dry N/V
Champagne, France
With the reproduction of the original label dating back to 1864 (the first colour label in champagne and, probably in all of France), the Dry de Venoge has rejuvenated a blend of pinot noir, balanced by a touch of chardonnay and pinot meunier to which a 20 gram/L dosage of sugar is added. There is plenty of fine continuous mousse and a bright pear, honey, citrus, leesy, green apple nose. The entry is fresh and lively with some sweetness but nice acidity. Ripe apple, honey, citrus, toasty flavours with a somewhat sweet, honeyed finish. Elegant, balanced, sweeter style that will appeal to many new to champagne.
Tasted: 2012-10-22 by AG
Prices: BC $69.99 (750 ml) OTB - Seacove
CSPC: 057273;   UPC: 3291690570011
Producer: Champagne de Venoge
Distributor: Seacove Premium Wines & Spirits

90/100 de Venoge Brut Rosé N/V
Champagne, France
Pale raspberry orange colour with fine mousse. Look for a fresh attractive strawberry, earthy, red cassis, toasty, pear aromas with some baked apple. Quite crisp, round and elegant with lots of mineral, cherry, red currant, toasty brioche, baked pear and anise flavours. Firm, fruity, fresh, dry finish with good finesse. An excellent rosé for sipping or with food. This is made with 8% red wine added and a dryer dosage of 6 g/L.
Tasted: 2012-10-22 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $53.30 (750 ml); BC $75.00 (750 ml) speculative listing - The Seacove Group; BC $36.99 (375 ml) OTB - Seacove Group; BC $160.00 (1500 ml) speculative - Seacove Group
CSPC: 294413;   UPC: 3291690550013
Producer: Champagne de Venoge
Distributor: Seacove Premium Wines & Spirits

90/100 de Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Sélect N/V
Champagne, France
Very fine persistent mousse. Green apple, honey, toasty, citrus, baked pear, mineral, buttery aromas. Medium brut sweetness style and crisp palate with creamy mousse and persistence. Toasty, citrus, cherry, baked granny smith, honey, spicy anise flavours with a touch of seashore. Good finesse and flavour concentration with structure and length.
Tasted: 2012-10-22 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $65.00 (750 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 207134;   UPC: 03291690500018
Producer: Champagne de Venoge
Distributor: Seacove Premium Wines & Spirits

90/100 Veuve Clicquot Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Fine continuous mousse with a toasty, spicy, baked apple, light pear, honey, cherry and cashew aromas. Fresh, crisp, juicy but slightly austere palate with light sweetness and prickly mousse. Baked green apple, toasty, nutty, grassy, lemon, grassy, slightly buttery flavours. Crisper, more austere finish that would be balanced with food or a few years more of bottle age. The big toasty N/V brut defines the house style thanks to some 25 to 40 per cent reserve wine in each edition and 50-55% pinot noir and 15-20% pinot meunier and 28-33 percent chardonnay.
Tasted: 2013-12-12 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $55.00 (750 ml) private wine shops; BC $39.50 (750 ml) general listing; BC $70.00 (750 ml) general listing; BC $146.00 (750 ml) specialty listing; MB $70.00 (750 ml); NS $70.00 (750 ml); ON $68.00 (750 ml); PEI $68.00 (750 ml); QC $71.00 (750 ml); SK $56.00 (750 ml); YK $72.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 563338;   UPC: 3049610004104
Producer: Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

91/100 Veuve Clicquot Rosé Brut N/V
Champagne, France
Very pale salmon colour but very fine mousse. Light honey, toasty, nutty, floral, raspberry, baked green apple and lemon aromas. Full, crisp, fine mousse in a drier brut style with good juicy acidity. Lime, baked green apple, nutty, toasty, pear, spicy, strawberry flavours. Finish is more austere than mane others but has very good intensity. This would be better with food to work to complement its dry, taut, austere style.
Tasted: 2013-12-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $80.00 (750 ml); BC $83.00 (750 ml); NS $85.00 (750 ml); ON $77.00 (750 ml); QC $82.00 (750 ml)
CSPC: 945261;   UPC: 3049614003417
Producer: Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.