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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Friday, June 18 2004

Brie de Meaux

By: Alice and Allison Spurrell

Brie de Meaux is described as "The King of Cheeses". It received this title on the occasion of the Viennese congress in 1814 when gourmets in France and the rest of the world agreed that this distinction be awarded Brie de Meaux making it one of the most famous cheeses in France.

Brie de Meaux is described as "The King of Cheeses". It received this title on the occasion of the Viennese congress in 1814 when gourmets in France and the rest of the world agreed that this distinction be awarded Brie de Meaux making it one of the most famous cheeses in France. It is produced in the Ile-de France, near Paris under AOC cheese regulations that must be met in order for it to bear its name:


1. The raw unpasteurized milk may be heated to a maximum of 98.6o once, and only at the renneting
2. The cheese is cast manually into its mold with a special pelle à Brie (brie shovel)
3. The cheese is salted with dry salt exclusively

 

It comes to us as a large, flat disc weighing about 3 Kg and measuring about 14" across.  It has a soft, velvety white bloom, slightly coloured by shadings of red and yellow in areas when ripened properly.  The inside (pâté) is yellow like the color of straw.  It has a full rich smell that is distinct from other cheeses.  The aroma is often described as smelling like mushrooms, turnips or even sometimes garlic.  The flavour is earthy and intense, and definitely a taste that is not easily forgotten.  This is what good, true brie should taste like. 

 

Brie de Meaux is a perennial staff favourite at les amis du Fromage.  It will forever have a place near the top on our cheese list should we be stranded on a desert island.

 


CHEESE: Brie de Meaux

PRODUCER: Renard Gillard

TYPE: Cow's milk

ORIGIN: France

TEXTURE: Soft

PRICE: 100 gr $3.25 / 100 gr

WEIGHT: 3 Kilo 14" across 

PAIRING WITH WINE:  Strong reds from Bordeaux and Burgundy, young and especially older.  Possibly young BC reds.


Gismondi On Wine Picks

 

89/100 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf du Pape 2001
Châteauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
Sausage, meaty, peppery, spicy, cigar, black raspberry jam nose. Soft, round, rich but slightly tannic. Sweet jammy cherry, strawberry, peppery, meaty, smoky peppery flavours with a cocoa truffle finish. A bit young and alcoholic but lots of intensity. Needs 3-4 years.
Tasted: 2004-06-12 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $44.95 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 125880;   UPC: 831906003488
Producer: Domaine de Cristia
Distributor: Liquid Art Fine Wines

90/100 Chateau de Beaucastel 2001
Châteauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
Beaucastel boasts a large percentage of mourvèdre and grenache, about 30% each with 10 per cent syrah and another five per cent of muscardin, vaccarese and cinsault. The remainder is made up of small quantities of the seven other varieties permitted in Châteauneuf du Pape. Somewhat surprising nose of raspberry kirsch and spicy, pruny cooked fruit laced with chocolate, pepper and gamey notes. Quite peppery, spicy on the palate with black raspberry jam, cocoa, kirsch and prune flavours. Good intensity but quite alcoholic and somewhat over ripe. A big year and a big over the top red. Could be a faulty cork behind the cooked flavours.
Tasted: 2004-06-12 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $88.00 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 277988;   UPC: 633135002108
Producer: Perrin et Fils
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

87/100 VF Lasira 2002
Costières de Nîmes, Languedoc, South of France, France
The label says 75 per cent syrah, 25 per cent grenache and 0 per cent cork referring to its new black screwcap closure and this baby is a winner. The nose has a clean intense spicy, white pepper, black raspberry jam aroma with gamy/licorice notes. The entry is soft, dry and round with fresh black raspberry, licorice, plum jam, peppery pudding flavours. Fresh, dry Euro-style but great flavour and fine acidity. Great flank steak or lamb sausage match. Good value here and a real example of how a screwcap can lift the level of an ordinary red.
Tasted: 2004-06-05 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $12.99 (750 ml)
CSPC: 126029;   UPC: 631470000759
Producer: Perrin et Fils
Distributor: Charton-Hobbs

88/100 Gabriel Meffre Laurus Cotes du Rhone 2000
Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France
Complex nose of ripe cherries, spicy/cloves, poultry spice, licorice and raspberry jam. Round, soft, elegant and rich on the palate with earthy licorice, black cherry jam and spicy, gamy meat flavours. Long, dry and slightly tannic finish that is perfectly balanced and brimming with ripe fruit. Fine job.
Tasted: 2004-06-05 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $22.95 (750 ml) Speculative - Reichel-Waldorf
UPC: 3142920704419
Producer: Gabriel Meffre
Distributor: Reichel-Waldorf Wine Imports Inc.

87/100 Fat Bastard Shiraz 2002
Languedoc, South of France, France
Peppery, licorice, poultry spice, blackberry nose. Warm, dry, slightly tannic style with very spicy, floral black cherry, peppery, cedar flavours. A good alternative dry style shiraz that goes with most grilled foods.
Tasted: 2004-05-13 by AG
Prices: AB $14.95 (750 ml); BC $17.50 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 563122;   UPC: 3700067800717
Producer: Thierry and Guy
Distributor: Brave New Wines

90/100 Château de Nages Cuvée Joseph Torres Rouge (Syrah) 2000
Costières de Nîmes, Languedoc, South of France, France
Marmalade black raspberry and touch of prune mark this expressive syrah nose flecked with pepper, coffee and mocha. On the palate there are big sausage savoury meaty flavours with substantial dry tannins in the finish. It needs time or a big meat dish to smooth out the rough edges. Winemaker Michel Gassier describes the Torres, named after his grandfather, as not just a display of power but one of finesse too.
Tasted: 2004-05-10 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $24.95 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $27.95 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 736876;   UPC: 690604000041
Producer: Vignobles Michel Gassier
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.

87/100 Domaine de Molines Merlot Cabernet Réserve 1999
Languedoc, South of France, France
Spicy, dill, cardamom, cherry aromas with earthy barnyard notes. Soft, round and somewhat dry with peppery, cherry, spicy, olive flavours and a touch weedy in the finish. Elegant but a tad on the under-ripe green fruit side.
Tasted: 2004-05-10 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $17.50 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $19.95 (750 ml) Speculative - Winspeer
CSPC: 013045;   UPC: 690604000010
Producer: Vignobles Michel Gassier
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.
 
87/100 Bila-Haut 2002
Côtes du Roussillion, Roussillon, South of France, France
The Roussillon region is better known as the hyphenated add-on to the Languedoc than for any specific wine but we like this new label from Chapoutier. Look for a meaty, gamey, black cherry, smoky nose with floral, licorice streaks. The styling is dry, elegant and quite silky with spicy, licorice, plum, black cherry and fresh Bing cherry fruit. The finish is dry and peppery with fresh acidity but there is plenty of fruit. Drink any time with grilled lamb or rabbit.
Tasted: 2004-04-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $15.90 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 40790;   UPC: 3391181410236
Producer: M. Chapoutier
Distributor: Pacific Wines & Spirits 95 Ltd.

89/100 Clos Montirius Vacqueyras 1999
Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
Full fledges south of France garrigue scented nose with a meaty, licorice root undertone, nuances of black olive, cherries and rubber boot. Warm, round, fairly dry entry with light tannins. Peppery, earthy, black raspberry, garrigue licorice flavours with a slightly hot finish and some black olive notes. Solid southern Rhone red.
Tasted: 2004-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $31.95 (750 ml)
CSPC: 619090;   UPC: 3338693340019
Producer: Christine et Eric Saurel
Distributor: Stile Enterprises Ltd.
 
89/100 Montirius Gigondas 2000
Gigondas, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
Peppery, spicy, gamey nose with mineral, cooked prunes and jammy fruit aromas. The entry is big rich and warm (alcoholic) with some dry tannins. Prune plum, peppery, licorice root, meaty, orange peel flavours. Needs a bit of time to soften but overall it will be big and hot forever. Best served a touch cool on a cold night with a lamb leg.
Tasted: 2004-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $37.95 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 619114;   UPC: 3338694230029
Producer: Christine et Eric Saurel
Distributor: Stile Enterprises Ltd.

87/100 Grand Luberon Cuvee 2001 2001
Côtes du Lubéron, Provence, South of France, France
Meaty, gamey, garrigue nose with black cherry black raspberry jam and lots of spicy pepper notes. Dry, smooth, hot entry with intense black raspberry jam, peppery, licorice, garrigue flavours. Big fruit, some dry tannins to shed but lots of intensity. Think game dishes. The blend is 70/30 syrah grenache.
Tasted: 2004-02-18 by AG
Prices: BC $17.95 (750 ml) Speculative - Reichel-Waldorf
CSPC: 104455;   UPC: 3256811113126
Producer: Cellier de Marrenon
Distributor: Reichel-Waldorf Wine Imports Inc.

89/100 Domaine La Garrigue Cuvée Romaine 2001
Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France
Sweaty game, meaty, spicy, licorice root nose with rubbery notes and warm alcoholic esters. Very big and dry with youthful tannins. Huge peppery, smoky, licorice root, black raspberry jam, meaty flavours with a big alcoholic finish and quite a bit of acidity. Will needs some time smooth out the edges otherwise serve young with rustic dishes.
Tasted: 2004-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $24.95 (750 ml)
CSPC: 077057;   UPC: 3760088010021
Producer: SCEA A. Bernard et Fils
Distributor: Next Beverage

87/100 Chateau de Serame 2000
Corbières, Languedoc, South of France, France
Gamey, spicy, carrot top, smoky garrigue nose with some black fruit. Smooth, dry, warm structure with meaty, spicy, licorice, black cherry flavours with some smoky, slightly alcoholic notes but good acidity and balance. Try with barbequed lamb or ribs. Worth trying. The blend is syrah (35%), carignan (35%), grenache noir (25%) and cinsault (5%).
Tasted: 2004-02-18 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $15.90 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 051870;   UPC: 3258691158624
Producer: Chateau de Serame
Distributor: Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd

87/100 Joseph Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2001
Burgundy, France
Cherry, raspberry jam, spicy, cedar licorice root aromas. Soft, round, dry and elegant with cherry, strawberry jam, resiny, cedar flavours and a touch of orange rind on the finish. Smooth, suave and ready to drink. Best yet for this brand.
Tasted: 2004-01-27 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $21.99 (750 ml)
CSPC: 286682;   UPC: 12086511318
Producer: Joseph Drouhin
Distributor: Pacific Wines & Spirits 95 Ltd.

89/100 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Premier Cru 2000
Beaune, Côte de Beaune, Côte d'Or, Burgundy, France
Tea, black cherry and barnyard aromas mixed with licorice and leather on the nose of this 1er Cru. Soft elegant Beaune style with medium weight, dry French fruit and cedar bark in the finish. Classy pinot without the smoke, toast and vanilla of the New World. Ready now.
Tasted: 2004-01-26 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $43.90 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 511030
Producer: Joseph Drouhin
Distributor: Pacific Wines & Spirits 95 Ltd.

89/100 Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 2000
Châteauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France
Nice gamey, smoky, black raspberry jam, peppery, rootsy, leather nose. Ripe, rich round, elegant style with very soft tannins. Warm peppery, licorice root, mineral, black cherry flavours with a warm, spicy, cardamom finish. A bit of tannin to shed over the next 2-3 years but good balance and intensity for current drinking also.
Tasted: 2004-01-26 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $44.95 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 432385;   UPC: 3391181010030
Producer: M. Chapoutier
Distributor: Pacific Wines & Spirits 95 Ltd.

87/100 Domaine des Espiers Cotes du Rhone 2001
Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France
Black cherry, smoky, spicy, gamey liquorice aromas. Round, medium bodied with light, dry tannins. Good intensity peppery, spicy, black cherry jam, liquorice flavours with a warm, round finish. Elegant style with a slightly dry tannic finish, still has good balance and ripeness for a very good price.
Tasted: 2004-01-03 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $12.99 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 615872;   UPC: 62699012351
Producer: Philippe Cartoux Vigneron - Recoltant
Distributor: Magnum Consultants Ltd.



All cheese information courtesy of Alice & Allison Spurrell, the mother and daughter owners of Les Amis du FROMAGE. The store regularly stocks more than 300 types of cheese for sale to both trade and consumers alike. Les Amis du FROMAGE is a recipient of a Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Award as Top Food Supplier to Vancouver Restaurants.

 LOCATION  1752 West 2nd Avenue, Vancouver, British Columbia V6J 1H6 
 TELEPHONE (604) 732-4218
 FAX (604) 736-0460
 WEBSITE  www.buycheese.com
 HOURS OF OPERATION  Mon. to Wed. and Sat.: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Thurs. to Fri: 9:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Written By:
Alice and Allison Spurrell
Alice and Allison Spurrell