Thanks to a reader for this week's topic about storing wine.
Thanks to a reader for this week's topic about storing
wine. It's not like I don't think about it constantly.
Case in point, every time I walk into a restaurant and
see bottles sitting at (very warm) room temperature for weeks and months on
end.
Worse yet are all those million-dollar homes and
condominiums being built with wine racks in the kitchen facing sun-drenched
windows. Kitchens are for cooking food, not wine, but you would never know it
by some of the designs featured every weekend in this paper and others. Wines
prefer a cool, dark and vibration-free environment. They are not required to be
seen by your friends until they are ready to drink.
When is wine ready to drink? I know what you are thinking
- when the cork is pulled out - but you may be surprised to learn that most
every wine will improve, or get better, in the bottle. Storing it for even a
few weeks or months in a quiet, cool, dark place allows the wine to gather
itself, settle down and recover from the shock of being bottled, shipped and
generally bounced around in its early life.
When it comes to aging red wine my rule is seven to 10
years whenever possible. Almost all will taste better given the chance to age
in bottle. And based on some 35 years of cellaring wine, seven to 10 years
allows for all the major components, fruit tannin, acid and oak to meld
together to offer a flavour that is far more complex than the primary fermented
fruit flavours installed at bottling. Since most red wine is two or three years
old when you buy it, it is not all that long a wait.
If you don't have a cool corner in the basement (north
facing, mostly underground) you will need to purchase a wine fridge to keep
your investment safe. You don't need a piece of furniture, just a fridge made
for wine. The good news is the quality of wine fridges is rising and prices are
dropping every year. Remember, using an inexpensive fridge to store wine is
light years ahead of a sunny window rack overlooking False Creek.
Keep in mind that size and worth mean little to true wine
lovers. All cellars begin with one bottle so the sooner you get started
assembling your cache, the sooner you will be drinking delicious mature, aged
wine. Everyone wants an instant old cellar, complete with spiders and cobwebs,
but cost and availability dictate against that happening.
Building a cellar takes time and you need to be vigilant.
Buying the best young wine you can afford is the preferred route and that means
from a reputable producer and from a terrific vintage. It's what we term
foundation vintages: young, highly regarded and as cheap as it will ever be at
retail.
Don't miss the opportunity to lay away a few bottles from
great years: 2010, 2009 Bordeaux, 2010, 2009 Red Burgundy, 2010, 2007 Rhone,
2011 Vintage Port, 2009 German Riesling, 2009 California reds and so the list
goes.
I often tell people that if the difference between a good
wine and a great wine is only a few dollars then always buy the better wine.
Believe me, the few extra dollars will look like a bargain a decade from now.
That said, set a budget and stick to it. The good news is you can buy a lot of
wine for $30 today. Just make sure you are getting your money's worth if you
are going to spend more and keep in mind it is much easier for a $50 wine to
triple in value than a $1,500 bottle to double its worth.
Finally, how much to buy is really a matter of budget and
your ultimate cellar size. A 1,000-bottle cellar is a solid, long-term goal if
you plan on drinking one or two great bottles of wine a week. That allows you
to replace about a tenth of your cellar a year. The rest is just a matter of
time.
Crios de Susana
Balbo Torrontés 2013, Argentina
Price: $17 | Score: 88/100
UPC: 07798068480300
A cooler vintage yields fresh ginger, rose petal, honey,
and nectarine aromas and flavours. Crisp and juicy with some texture. Try it
with seafood and Asian cuisine. The wine is a 50/50 blend of Cafayate and
Mendoza fruit since 2012.
Trivento Golden
Reserve Malbec 2011, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $23 | Score: 90/100
UPC: 7798039590625
There is a friendly side to this rich peppery savoury red
that as big as it is has a freshness that keeps you coming back for more. Don't
get me wrong, this is no shrinking violet but it's dense, savoury, sweet
blueberry/black fruit is fun to sip. Excellent value here and you can age this
red for half a decade. A grilled T-bone steak would be a great match.
Santa Julia
Reserva Malbec Etiqueta Blanca 2011, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $15 | Score: 88/100
UPC: 7791728000566
This red will have a lot of curbside appeal with its
rich, soft styling and peppery, red fruit nose and flavours. It spends just
under a year in French oak, giving its plummy fruit a spicy smoky finish and light
tannin. Good value here that you can pour liberally around the barbecue.
Ben Marco Malbec
2012, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $24 | Score: 89/100
UPC: 007798068480539
Round, suave and juicy on the palate. Look for black
cherry, chocolate, savoury, earthy red fruit flavours flecked with vanilla and
poultry spice. Love the texture and concentration. This will be even better
after a year or two in bottle.
Amalaya Vino Tinto
de Altura 2011, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, North, Argentina
Price: $20 | Score: 89/100
UPC: 007798104763039
The waiting for a miracle 'Amalaya' wine is grown at some
of the highest vineyards in the world. Mostly malbec mixed with 15 per cent
cabernet sauvignon, syrah and tannat opens with an aromatic nose and a fresh,
peppery, juicy palate. More mineral and white pepper than fat sweet fruit, this
has wide appeal for food lovers. It is also farmed bio-dynamically. Finesse and
value.
Terrazas de los
Andes Malbec Reserva 2011, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $21 | Score: 90/100
UPC: 07790975001487
Back up the truck and load up. Terrazas works hard at
making sophisticated, elegant malbec and they have done it in 2011. Medium dark
and awash in stony, aromatic black fruit, it hits the palate silky and slides
through the finish. Love the peppery, smoky, spicy, cherry jam fruit flecked
with orange and licorice flavours. Savoury sophisticated and you can drink it
now. Steak anyone?