Blue Mountain 20 Years On

In fact, the family has been farming the same site, overlooking Vaseaux Lake, since 1971.

Ian and Matt Mavety were in Vancouver earlier this week to showcase 20 years of winemaking in South Okanagan and to talk about the past, present and future plans for Blue Mountain. The family has done a masterful job of marketing Blue Mountain over the past two decades, sprinkling their wines in top local restaurants, avoiding government liquor stores, presumably to save money and build a successful if somewhat mysterious image.

Other smart decisions included taking British Columbia's propensity to produce cool, acidic fruit and make a true Champenois-style sparkler. Today, Blue Mountain Brut remains among the best sparkling wines made in North America. Just ask the roomful of trade types who were given a chance to taste a delicious, very much alive bottle of 1994 Brut RD that was "recently disgorged" or taken off its lees in the bottle last weekend in preparation for Wednesday's tasting. Bright, juicy and fresh it was, in remarkable shape at 16 years, illustrating the gift of acidity that is so much a part of what makes the Okanagan Valley climate so special.

Mavety explained that when he was looking around for grapes to plant in 1991 it was suggested gamay noir, a star in Beaujolais' granitic soils, would do equally well in Okanagan Falls. Some years, especially in the 1990s, that gamay was as good as or better than most Okanagan Pinot noirs.

Today, Blue Mountain Pinot Noir excels as the Mavetys use every one of their 40 years of experience in growing grapes to understand the nuances of their site and the various soils and exposures they can play with. Equally compelling are the latest chardonnays, the pinot blanc and of course the pinot gris.

Interestingly, the original Blue Mountain wines, once thought to be pricey, are now far cheaper than most of the valley's so-called elite labels. Some days I'm not sure whether we should be embarrassed for the underpriced Blue Mountain "Reserve" wines or the grossly overpriced wines coming out of some of the valley's newest and least experienced producers.

One thing is for sure: The new generation at Blue Mountain isn't planning any radical changes. There are no screw caps in the immediate future, and they will continue to make wines you'd best lay away in the wine cellar for two or three years. Above all, there remains a healthy respect for the time it takes to change anything for the better at Blue Mountain.

When you go looking for these wines today, remember to think private wine shops, restaurants, or order direct online. It seems that buying these wines any other way would only take away the magic.

Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2008 is made from two French clones. The Mavety strategy is to ferment half in old wood barrels and half in stainless steel tanks, thereby preserving its delicate fruit. The '09 is positively swimming in bright fruit, showing bits of peaches and apricots with flecks of citrus rind and green pear. Halibut, salmon, clams and even crab would be a wonderful fit here. Easily one of the best pinot blancs in the valley.

Light butter, earthy, baked pear, citrus, seaweed, seashell and almond aromas envelop the Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2008. Its flavours are fresh and crisp, mixing light butter, nutty garlic lees, lemon, green apple, pear skin with a touch of seashore. Juicy yet slightly austere, it is reminiscent of many a French chablis.

Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2008 is somewhat lighter in body than most Okanagan examples, with a fresh, elegant demeanour. Look for grapefruit, green apple, lemon, spicy lees, smoky, grassy vanilla flavours. The blend is 50-50 barrel-fermented versus tank-fermented to keep the fruit alive. Expect a crisp, citrusy style with a bit of toasted oak and lees. A perfect West Coast seafood wine.

A wonderful harvest has resulted in a terrific bottle of Blue Mountain Chardonnay Reserve (Stripe Label) 2007. I love the correct fruit and underlying creamy leesy character that adds complexity to the blend. The vineyard is 18 years old and planted to a mix of four French clones. Much in the style of a premier cru chablis with a bit more oak, it is an attractive style for serving with food, but will age. Solid value.

The Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2008 is one of the better young pinot noirs in the valleys. The vines range from 11 to 24 years old and include multiple clones of pinot noir that surely add to its complexity. The palate is dry and supple with fresh rhubarb, strawberry jam, barnyard and earthy compost flavours. This will need time in the bottle to come about, or you could serve it now with something like duck confit or roast turkey.

The Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Reserve (Stripe Label) 2007 is a blend of five clones from 18- to 23-year-old vines. Look for cherry jam, light strawberry, barnyard, compost, vanilla aromas in what is essentially a dry, round, supple, elegant pinot. On the palate, strawberry, celery, tobacco, orange peel and dried herbs are all mixed into an inviting sweet/savoury pinot style. Roast chicken, anyone?

Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2008, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC

Price      $18

UPC:      00626990024958

Score     89/100

Remarks              Positively swimming in bright fruit showing bits of peaches and apricots.

Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2008, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC

Price      $21

UPC       00626452201088

Score     88/100

Remarks              Citrus, seaweed, seashell aromas reminiscent of Chablis.

Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2008, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC

Price      $21

UPC       00626452101085

Score     88/100

Remarks              Crisp, citrusy style chardonnay that is perfect for West Coast seafood.

Blue Mountain Chardonnay Reserve (Stripe Label) 2007, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC

Price      $26

UPC       00626452351073

Score     90/100

Remarks              A wonderful harvest has resulted in a terrific bottle of '07 Reserve.

Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2008, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC

Price      $25

UPC 00626452501089

Score 88/100

Remarks    Lots of love and care reveal a wonderful mix of red and black fruit flavours.

Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Reserve (Stripe Label) 2007, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC

Price      $36

UPC       00626452551077

Score     90/100

Remarks              An inviting sweet/savoury pinot style. Roast chicken anyone.