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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, October 22 2011

A Taste of Black Rock Resort has come and gone and so, too, have nearly 100 lucky Vancouver Sun subscribers who joined us in Ucluelet last weekend to taste wine, dine, hike and enjoy the fabulous West Coast lifestyle.

Black Rock Weekend

After spending three days with so many interested wine drinkers, it's clear to me there's more than a wine revolution going on in Vancouver. We are finally building that elusive culture of wine where the producer, the server and the customer are all starting to move in a similar direction.

 

A wide range of ages displayed a similar thirst for knowledge and insight into the business of wine, but perhaps more significantly, what they really crave - attention wineries, distributors, fellow writers and bloggers - is simple, useful information that empowers them to be smarter, savvier consumers. Not the demystifying, dumbed down, so-called anti-snobbism dreck that plagues the Internet.

 

Most revealing is the frustration consumers suffer when trying to locate any wine they have read or heard good things about. I would agree that situation is less than ideal, and I have 25 years' worth of knowledge about who sells what and where it's likely to be sold. The average wine buyer gets very little help for what should be a slam-dunk online search.

 

Vancouver Sun readers couldn't have shouted it out any clearer to me last weekend: "Where can I find the wine that you recommend in your Saturday column?" Clearly they crave an easier method of finding wine, wherever it is sold in B.C. As successful as wine has become, most distributors/ agents, retailers and wineries do a dreadful job of telling you where you can purchase their wine. I know this because I spend half my days tracking down the price and availability of most wines sold in B.C. and the rest of my day trying to locate a bottle shot or a picture of the label.

 

The BCLDB, which grosses about 2.8 billion dollars a year in sales, has a snappy-looking website with a large search engine, but the data are incomplete, the vintages are out of date and frankly you need to be a master of wine to navigate a system that doesn't respect the names of producers and the appellations of their wines. I'm not even going to ask why we cannot order wine online direct from the government.

 

Private wine stores are beginning to improve their sites, but I'm guessing 95 per cent of private wine stores do not allow any public access to their inventories. B.C. wineries are finally getting a better online presence but pricing and vintage information is often too vague.

 

I'm not sure what can be done, but a quick companywide meeting and maybe a weeklong in-house blitz to double check prices, vintages, spelling of names, appellations and availability would improve the information available in print and online, and that goes for all those restaurant wine lists.

 

Now to some of the wines that impressed us last weekend.

 

The Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Cuvée N/V is new to the market but a fun addition for those of you who want a dry but fruity sparkler without that aggressive acidity in the finish. The grape mix is Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the nose a citrus affair with soft red fruit flavours, a touch of yeast and crushed hazelnuts.

 

The delicious Averill Creek Vineyard Pinot Grigio 2009 from Vancouver Island wowed the pre-dinner crowd on Saturday night and it was a perfect foil to a mini cup of chanterelle risotto appetizer. Razorthin but with stone fruit, lemon oil and honey aromas and flavours that give it enough weight to carry its juicy, melon mineral finish.

 

The Emiliana Novas Winemaker's Selection Syrah 2006 surprises with its warmth given the cool nature of the Casablanca Valley. Look for smoky, meaty Rhone notes over cool, spicy, plummy fruit. The palate is a mix of red fruits with coffee, chocolate and savoury berries. A seriously delicious organic red.

 

Benziger Merlot 2007 sports signature Sonoma textures: supple, soft tannins. Certified sustainable, its rich black fruit and pepper aromas and flavours with a dash of milk chocolate are hard not to like. Beef tenderloin is recommended by the winery and we concur.

 

La Domelière Rasteau Côtes du Rhône Villages 2009 hails from an excellent vintage. The blended red is a 70/20/10 blend of Grenache, Syrah and mourvèdre. Expect an attractive, sweet smoky nose with bits of red fruit spice. The entry is fragrant with black cherry, plum, licorice root, savoury, meaty, peppery kirsch flavours. Try with lamb or chicken grilled on rosemary or keep for a year or two to soften.

 

Finally, as the cool weather arrives reach for the Dow's Old Tawny Port Aged 10 Years. It is a blend of wines that have spent a minimum average of 10 years in oak casks. During the process, the deep purple colour of youthful port wanes to a more subtle orange/ brown/tawny colour, hence its name. Nuts and exotic spice mix with toffee, nutmeg and orange peel, lending this delicious port style its enormous curbside appeal in the glass. Sip forever by the fireside or with nutty cake desserts.

 

Ucluelet Picks

 

Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Cuvée N/V, Australia

Price      $14

UPC       9300727839244

Score     87/100

Remarks              A citrus affair with soft red fruit flavours.

 

Averill Creek Vineyard Pinot Grigio 2009, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Price      $20

UPC       00626990087908

Score     87/100

Remarks              Razor thin but with stone fruit, lemon oil and honey aromas.

 

Emiliana Novas Winemaker's Selection Syrah 2006, Valle de Casablanca, Chile

Price      $25 private wine shops only

UPC       N/A

Score 90/100

Remarks              Rich, cool, spicy, plummy fruit.

 

Wine Benziger Merlot 2007, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price $30.00

UPC 785774000455

Score 89/100

Remarks    Rich black fruit with a dash of milk chocolate.

 

La Domeliere Rasteau, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhone Valley, France

Price      $22.00

UPC       664605313080

Score     89/100

Remarks              Try with lamb or grilled rosemary chicken.

 

Dow's Old Tawny Port Aged 10 Years N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $39

UPC       5010867200067

Score     91/100

Remarks              A delicious port style with enormous curb-side appeal.

 

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Wine+culture+reaches+sweet+maturity/5591849/story.html#ixzz1cCtGtjjH

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.