Bits and Pieces for Summer

Not every bit of news about wine is column-worthy. So this week on the cusp of a massive office cleanup, and a move to new laptop, I'm sharing wine tidbits that are just never going to make it into a full-length column by the end of summer.

Let's begin with Susan Anton, B.C. attorney general and minister of justice, and the Modernize Wine Association of British Columbia. As civilized and noble as it may sound to allow one to have a beer or a glass of wine at the beach, it hardly gets to the nub of what's wrong with liquor regulations and taxation in this province. Decades of lobbying and catering to special interest groups has left us with a legacy of rules that are inefficient, money losing and simply make no sense.

Before we modernize , we must retir e the ad valorem liquor tax and consider a single tax to replace the total revenue required by government from alcohol. We need to look at the total dollar sales of alcohol in B.C., divide it by the percentage of beer, wine and spirits sold in this province and set a flat rate on each sector that meets that goal. There should be a wholesale price for beer, wine and spirits, and all products should be available for direct sale to licensees. After that, government should get out of the way.

For those in government who look at wine taxes as an endless supply of money, they might consider that this week in the United States, Australia's largest wine company, Treasury Wine Estates, announced it will destroy $35-million worth of wine and is offering $40 million in discounts to sell off old wine that isn't selling. Years ago I suggested that big business and wine isn't really a good fit, if only because quarterly reports and shareholders have no understanding of what it takes to develop a vineyard, nurture vines and establish a wine brand, or name, that sells globally.

When wineries start sending me quarterly reports instead of harvest reports, I know the wine will suffer. Once sales decline, cost cutting takes over and the entire business spirals into a dogfight about who can sell wine cheapest. Even then, selling massproduced cheap wine is a challenge. By the way, the U.S. government will have to return the paid tax to Treasury for every bottle they destroy.

Okanagan visitors are in for a treat if they want to eat food and sip wines at wineries. Here are some great dishes to be on the lookout for if you visit any of the following wineries. In the Kelowna area the Terrace Restaurant at CedarCreek is offering a curried chicken salad on a crostini with its 2012 Riesling, or consider the salmon gravlax and dill crème fraîche with the 2011 Pinot Noir. Nearby at Summerhill Pyramid Winery, the Sunset Organic Bistro served the best Margherita pizza I've had in years at any winery with a delicious glass of Riesling.

Other smart stops include Hillside where the food and wine is now clearly back on track. Love the grilled lamb merguez sausage and the Old Vine Gamay. Nearby at Red Rooster, the Pecking Room Patio Grill features chargrilled lamb with sesame lemon drizzle and quinoa parsley salad. Try it with the Reserve Syrah. At Tinhorn Creek, Miradoro is serving a fabulous wild boar bacon carbonara you should pair with the Oldfield Series Syrah. While in Naramata, The Patio at Lake Breeze is offering a grilled three cheese on whole grain bread and pink peppercorn jelly with a glass of Pinot Blanc. Finally, stop by The Vanilla Pod at Poplar Grove Winery and order the sushi pizza and a bottle of Viognier.

CedarCreek Pinot Gris 2012, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $18 | Score: 89/100

UPC: 7789130220098

The Upper CedarCreek Vineyard is home to this delicious fruit that's picked about the same time the black bears arrive. Timing is everything. It's partly fermented with the native wild yeast allowing the juicy peachy/orange and honey scented fruit to mesh with a dash of earth. Fine elegance in what is a delicious balanced Gris for spicy foods.

Hillside Estate Pinot Gris Reserve 2010, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $22 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 626990019176

Bright floral, ginger, orange rind notes mark the nose. The palate has a touch of lees for texture with nectarine, ginger, guava, butter and spicy pear flavours. More on the tighter, austere style but with fine intensity and length. Try this with a variety of seafood.

James Oatley Tic Tok Pinot Grigio 2012, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

Price: $17 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 9338053000786

Very consistent from year to year, this is a cool-climate style Gris made from Central Ranges fruit. Honey, earth and wet stone: all in an appealing lean style that mark the nose and palate. Juicy, dry and fresh, you can pair this with a variety of seafood and sushi and even curry dishes. Good value.

Intrigue Pinot Gris 2012, Lake Country, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $17 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 843204012031

Restrained, cool citrus, guava with a touch of quince. The attack is dry and food-friendly, firm with earthy citrus, honey notes and a medium length, and now a bit drier and crisper in the finish. Made for clams or crab or serve well-chilled on the patio with appetizers.

Hillside Estate Un-Oaked Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $20 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 626990092797

This wine will appeal to those who prefer their white wine with no makeup. This Gris is 100-per-cent stainless fermented. The nose is a fragrant mix of peach and citrus; the palate is similar with more juicy, melon and pear notes in the background. A bit stark for solo sipping but would be perfect for chicken or pasta or bean salads.

Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Grigio 2012, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $16 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 620654011094

Classic, ripe, friendly style of Pinot Gris with honey and orange blossom notes. The entry is clean if slightly sweet with more honey, citrus and sour apple flavours in the back end. Simple and ready to drink.