Bits and Pieces

wines are much improved this year. There's a lot of hometown hype in this market, but that aside, I see some positive developments in the vineyards that are finally paying off in the wines.

Pricing will be the number one challenge in 2010 as wineries and consumers circle each other to decide how much they are willing to charge and pay.

The Winter Olympics will likely be the biggest opportunity for global exposure in the next 25 years. Official supplier events aside, the big story will be the wines that end up being talked and written about by visiting media and personalities with more than a passing interest in the subject. I'm sure at least one or two winery associations have it figured out.

Tumbling grape prices are forcing some New Zealand vineyard owners to sell up and others into receivership. A report on stuff.co.nz stated that more than 30 Marlborough vineyards are listed for sale on the website realestate.co.nz, and established Waipara winery Daniel Schuster Wines has gone into receivership. Two years ago, vineyards were selling for more than $250,000 a hectare; today the price is $100,000 a hectare, reflecting the falling return on capital, which has dropped to about six per cent from 15 per cent.

Some say the new harmonized sales tax will simplify the tax process and in the case of liquor could possibly result in lower prices. Currently the PST on wine is a whopping 10 per cent and the GST another five per cent. They are both applied to the already massively marked-up 120-per-cent-plus retail price. The HST on wine (still a tax on tax) will be reduced to 12 per cent, which should result in a three-per-cent saving to consumers.

Normally any tax saving this small is absorbed by the producer, distributor or retailer long before it gets to the consumer, but in the case of the HST, since it is applied on the final price of the bill or at the cash register you should pay three per cent less. Of course, with the HST, you will now pay seven per cent more on restaurant food that was never taxed by the PST before.

Drinking is still the best option, and I have six wonderful unrelated wines to share with you this weekend.

Sparkling prosecco continues to gain inroads in a market like Vancouver that rewards flavour and value. This pale straw-coloured Gancia Prosecco Extra Dry N/V mixes red apple and floral notes with just a hint of citrus and almonds in what is essentially a fresh, uncomplicated glass of bubble. More mineral than fruity, it is a pleasant pre-dinner palate cleanser and a suitable alternative to pricey sparkling bruts. Look for this in private wine shops.

Paul Mas Viognier 2008 blends viognier fruit from cool and warm sites using young and old vines and relatively low yields with fewer bunches per vine to better concentrate the flavour of the grapes. Look for an aromatic, floral nose that mixes nectarines and dried fruits. On the palate, peach and honey mix effortlessly with a creamy lees character. A small percentage is barrel fermented in new oak, but the bulk is aged only in stainless steel tanks to retain maximum freshness and finesse. The price is a gift.

Look for a fresh, bright, fruit nose in the Devil's Rock Pfalz Riesling 2007 with bits of petrol, green apple skin and fresh lemon. The entry is tart with dry citrus, mineral, slate, butter/lemon notes and a medium long finish. Zesty upbeat and finished under screwcap. This is a bargain you should purchase by the case. Serve whenever you want to have fun.

La Mano Mencia Roble 2007 is a new label to B.C. from Castillo-Leon, Spain. The grape is mencia, well known in the Bierzo region for its smoky, tobacco, peppery, cherry jam aromas flecked with bits of cranberry and dried meat. The palate is dry with peppery, meaty, smoky, garrigue, dried cherry and tobacco leaf flavours. A solid, Euro-style food wine.

The latest Espelt Sauló Garnacha-Cariñena 2007 from Empordà, Spain, is as good as ever. We love the fragrant, dry, fresh, warm palate with meaty, peppery, cedar, tobacco, spicy, black cherry and raspberry flavours. Good solid food wine with some concentration. Fine value here and a great mid-week dinner red.

Big smoky, blackberry, cassis, peppery, tobacco, coffee, roasted pepper flavours are the story of Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. On the palate it is supple and fairly dry if a touch rustic. As the label portends, it is made for steak, but grilled chicken will do, too. Certainly good value cabernet from Washington.

GANCIA PROSECCO EXTRA DRY N/V, LOMBARDY, ITALY

Price: $22, private wine shops only

UPC: 008000420031099

Score: 88/100

Remarks: More mineral than fruity. A very pleasant pre-dinner palate cleanser.

PAUL MAS VIOGNIER 2008, L'HERAULT, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE

Price: $13

UPC: 3760040420127

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Peach and honey mix effortlessly with a creamy lees character. Very serious value.

DEVIL'S ROCK PFALZ RIESLING 2007, PFALZ, GERMANY

Price: $12

UPC: 4002301436720

Score: 87/100

Remarks: This is a bargain you should purchase by the case.

LA MANO MENCIA ROBLE 2007, BIERZO, CASTILLA-LEON, SPAIN

Price: $14

UPC: 008437003286230

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Euro-style smoky, cherry jam flavours with bits of cranberry and dried meat.

ESPELT SAULO GARNACHA- CARINENA 2007, EMPORDA, CATALUNYA, SPAIN

Price: $16

UPC: 08436020950216

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Good solid food wine with some concentration. Fine value here.

STEAK HOUSE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASH.

Price: $22

UPC: 00184745000065

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A bit rustic and soft on the end, but good solid steak and chicken wine.