Bird Bottles

At this time last year expensive wine was selling like hotcakes. There was no end to price hikes and seemingly no limit to what retailers could charge and what consumers might spend.

All that is coming to a crashing halt thanks to the U.S. subprime mortgage crisis and the global fallout that is now seeping ominously north into Canada. Despite the crush for Bordeaux last weekend I would expect wine prices to come under severe scrutiny through the rest of the fall and possibly up to the 2010 Olympics.

Just this week a local distributor pitched me on one of those designer California cabernet sauvignons made with "excess" Napa Valley juice. Six months ago it was being pitched as "bargain" Napa cabernet at $30-plus a bottle. It's now mysteriously available for $17. That it is a super bargain might be lost on consumers wondering just exactly who's been zoomin' who.

Appropriately it is Thanksgiving weekend and despite the aforementioned economic uncertainty, there is still plenty to give thanks for beginning with the important stuff in our lives like health, family and friends. Oh, we will drink wine, and celebrate with it, and enjoy it but in every way it's the people in our lives that count and it's they who deserve our gratitude this weekend.

Given the often stressful nature of family gatherings, I suggest we disarm the audience with delicious wine and out of respect for the market's downturn, do it modestly.I'm sure some of you are chomping at the bit to open those 2005 Bordeaux you just picked up this week but almost none are ready to drink and they are really not the right wine for any medium to large Thanksgiving gathering.

For those of you roasting the "traditional" stuffed bird this holiday weekend, today's picks are for you. I know some people won't be eating turkey but since we cover most other food items regularly, so I feel no shame in suggesting wines for the bird.

Though there is no colour consensus when it comes to the classic turkey wine match -- be it red or white -- you can't go wrong with either, as long as you avoid the big tannic, monster reds and the heavily oaked whites.

In recent times pinot noir has been touted by some to be the perfect turkey wine, although it's the fruity versions that work the best, and that usually means New World picks from California, New Zealand and Chile. My pick is Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2007 because nothing much changes here, except possibly for a bit more competition at the entry level which leaves a few more bottles of this budget pinot to go around. Look for a spicy earthy forest floor nose with bits of licorice root and pepper. Expect a tart, black cherry fruit flavour mid-palate with more spice and mushroom in the finish. A turkey wine for sure and one you can afford.

The Perrin La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge 2006 is mostly grenache with small percentages of syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault. Look for a dry, spicy earthy French red with bits of black cherry, licorice and pepper. The fruit is well managed and seemingly brighter under screw cap and the tannins fine-grained. It all finishes dry with a twist of acidity that shouts cassoulet or lamb stew. Terrific value bone-dry red wine. Drink all winter.

Turkey is a versatile food and it's white-wine friendly too. Try this super fresh Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2007 from Stellenbosch. Hall is well known in the Cape for producing top Chenin Blanc at Rudera and perhaps more important fresh wines, the key component of this chenin blanc under screw cap. It has a lightweight fruity entry with zippy acidity and bits of floral orange blossoms to spice up the finish. Fresh, fun, affordable and clean, it should be a perfect foil to the turkey.

Similarly suited to the bird is the aromatic Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Viognier 2007 from McLaren Vale. The style is fresh and dry with grassy, green melon, grapefruit, and mineral flavours flecked with mineral, lime rind and honey. Consistent quality at fine value.

Closer to home it's easy to recommend the Quails' Gate Dry Riesling 2006. Again it's super fresh style and aromatic fruit flavours make it the perfect match for the bird's fat. On the palate the entry is equally crisp with plenty of citrus and grapefruit flavours flecked with bits of lime oil and mineral. The finish is tart and whistle clean.

Back to South Africa for the last pick; the Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007 under screw cap. The nose is both floral and meaty with savoury, blackberry and coffee hints. On the palate it is thankfully clean with a mix of tobacco, pepper, smoked meat, leather, roasted peppers and cherry jam flavours. Save some for the cheese. Happy Thanksgiving!

Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2007, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price: $11

UPC: 7804320753454

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A turkey wine for sure and one you can afford.

La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge 2006, Côtes-du-Ventoux, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $14

UPC: 631470000018

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Terrific value and perfect for the bird.

Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2007, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price: $17

UPC: 6005357000905

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fruity entry with zippy acidity and bits of orange and spice throughout.

Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Viognier 2007, McLaren Vale, South Australia

Price: $17

UPC: 9315125150990

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Green melon, grapefruit and mineral flavours with bits of honey.

Quails' Gate Dry Riesling 2006, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price: $17

UPC: 778856106022

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A super fresh style with plenty of citrus and grapefruit flavours.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price: $18

UPC: 746925000786

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh, round, supple palate with smoked meat and cherry jam flavours.