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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Wednesday, May 20 2015

Big Changes on the Hill

By: Anthony Gismondi
John Simes heads to Mission Hill vineyards; Darryl Brooker moves from CedarCreek to Mission Hill

Big news from Mission Hill, after 23 years John Simes will transition from chief winemaker at Mission Hill Family Estate to focus on the von Mandl Family Estates diverse collection of Okanagan vineyards.

Said Simes: “I see our vineyards as the last frontier in allowing our wines to become amongst the most sought after in the world.  Our terroir and microclimates are found nowhere else, and it now comes down to a relentless quest to drive the most in terms of quality and distinctiveness out of each and every vine.  Twenty years ago, no one believed that wines like Oculus, Compendium and Perpetua were possible, or that an Okanagan Pinot Noir such as Martin’s Lane would make the world stage in London.  With the von Mandl Family’s commitment to continuously raising the bar and their commitment to leading edge research and technology in our vineyards, there is no telling where we can go from here.”

After acquiring CedarCreek Estate Winery in early 2014, the family created VMF Estates (von Mandl Family Estates) to encompass the family’s winery and vineyards in the Okanagan Valley. “Our Family’s pioneering efforts to place our Valley on the world wine map began more than 30 years ago at a time when no one even contemplated the possibility of producing wines in this region that could stand next to the best in the world,” said Anthony von Mandl.  “Since then it has been a relentless quest driven on a passionate belief that the terroir and microclimates of the Okanagan, which are found here and nowhere else in the world, could deliver on that dream.”

Mission Hill has been on an upward spiral since Simes arrive in 1992 after an extensive international search. His first vintage of Mission Hill ‘Grand Reserve’ (now the ‘Mission Hill Reserve Chardonnay’) won the trophy for ‘Best Chardonnay in the World’ at the 1994 International Wine & Spirits Competition in London. “This was the first time I knew my dream had legs,” continued von Mandl. “John has gone on to transform not only our wines, but the world’s perception of our region – indeed he put the Okanagan Valley on the world wine map. Along the way, John was also instrumental in assembling our Family’s extraordinary collection of estate vineyards located throughout the Valley from West Kelowna in the North, to Osoyoos in the South, on the US border.”

Simes decision to move to the vineyard has a lot to do with the performance of CedarCreek’s winemaker, Australian born Darryl Brooker. Brooker has done an amazing job at CedarCreek and should be the perfect person to take over the reigns over the next few months in time for 2015 harvest. The winery says Simes will complete the winemaking and all final blending for the remarkable 2014 vintage and will remain a key resource to Darryl to ensure Mission Hill’s continuing legacy of numerous icon wines he has crafted.

Brooker brings a breadth of experience to Mission Hill that began at Mountadam Vineyards in Australia, followed by Villa Maria in New Zealand and experience in crafting world class wines at Flat Rock Cellars, Hillebrand and Thirty Bench wineries in Ontario. For his part

In commenting on his appointment, Darryl Brooker stated: “It will be a privilege to make some of Canada’s most iconic wine brands found exclusively in the Mission Hill portfolio – wines that deliver exceptional quality in every vintage. The passion behind the Mission Hill brand and the unwavering commitment to help put the Okanagan Valley on the international wine map is something I am incredibly motivated by and excited to be a part of.”

There is something reassuring about Simes heading back into the vineyards where the wines are really made. After all he shocked many a Mission Hill grape grower back in 1992 when he set out to visit them and put in place a plan they would need to follow if they wanted to get in the real game of wine. Many had never seen a winemaker in a vineyard before.

Anthony von Mandl is going nowhere. “My family and I could not be more pleased for John and Darryl’s next moves. They both share the same winemaking philosophy and commitment to excellence and continuous improvement that we need to take us and the Okanagan to new levels of international acclaim that few today even contemplate is possible. The first and formative Chapter of our region and Mission Hill Family Estate has been written - now we begin the second.”

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.