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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, November 16 2013

Earlier this summer I was holed up in a hotel ballroomnear the Toronto airport for eight days searching for the best value wines soldin Canada. I know you have heard that "best value" phrasea few times, but at The WineAlign World Wine Awards of Canada, a.k.a.

Best Value Results

Earlier this summer I was holed up in a hotel ballroomnear the Toronto airport for eight days searching for the best value wines soldin Canada.

 

I know you have heard that "best value" phrasea few times, but at The WineAlign World Wine Awards of Canada, a.k.a. TheWorlds, it really means something.

 

The majority of the WineAlign team joined me at WineAccess magazine in the past to look for the best value wines under $25 in thecountry, and the annual issue was a big hit with readers. After the demise ofWine Access we wanted to make sure the awards continued without missing a beator any of the judges so the WineAlign World Wine Awards were launched thissummer.

 

We expanded the price parameters to include wines up to$50, hoping to examine some of the key wines you see in restaurants and thatmight be candidates for the wine cellar at home. If you are from BritishColumbia, the new $50 limit shouldn't faze anyone since routinely we now pay$5-10 more per bottle for the same wine as folks in Ontario.

 

I predict the price of imported wine will continue torise in B.C. as the provincial government continues to subsidize localproducers, brewers and distillers who somehow feel entitled to avoid paying thesame hefty taxes levied against foreign producers simply because they areB.C.-based, but I digress.

 

At the Toronto competition, the wines were grouped inflights by price and variety and or style and the results were sliced and dicedon the strength of numbers. All the large categories were tasted by price:Under $15, $15-25; and $25-50. The largest categories yielded Category Championsand Judges' Choice selections regardless of price, in effect the best of thebest. We also declared the best wine from each price category. Each of thewines recognized were judged at least twice if not three times by a minimumeight judges and often by as many as 12 or 16.

 

When you put 19 highly opinionated and widely experiencedjudges in the same room as 1,000 wines you have the potential for amazingresults that speak to value. You could say it is arbitrary, or subject toindividual will or judgment without restriction; it could be contingent solelyon one's discretion but it's not the case. After a week of tough scrutiny,tasting blind, under similar conditions, the best wines work their way to thetop.

 

As for value, it is hard to argue against any of thewinners. In three separate tastings the wine bested several competitors. If Iwas to describe a winning wine (its value not withstanding) it has balance asin its not too dry and not too sweet and in some cases not too fruity. It has ahint of complexity or a head-turning "what-isthat?" factor and thefinish is persistent and clean. That may sound easy but that kind of wine isnot as prevalent as you might think in the modern wine world.

 

I have little compunction in saying there is and willcontinue to be a shortage of good wine in this world, especially as New Worldconsumers add wine to their daily diet.

 

Recently in Montreal I tasted several of what arehistorically referred to as the best red wines in the world, including one thatsells for $3,000 a bottle in Vancouver. In Priorat, Spain, last week, I tastedthe best wine I've had all year and it sells for 36 euros, proving that valuelike beauty comes at many price points and that maybe the emperor has noclothes.

 

Today we feature just six of the winning wines sold inBritish Columbia as judged at The Worlds. For a complete list of winners go towinealign.com.

 


Freixenet CordonNegro Brut Cava Selección N/V, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

Price $15 | Score 86/100

UPC: 00088601003002

A delicious inexpensive Cava with an inviting floral,green apple, quince, and light nutty aroma. The attack is crisp and somewhataustere with light almond, green apple skin, waxy, pear, grassy, nuttyflavours. A perfect sparkler for pre-dinner bite-size appetizers.

 

Gazela Vinho VerdeN/V, Vinhos Verde, Portugal

Price $11 | Score 86/100

UPC: 5601012045505

Not surprisingly refreshing at 9 per cent alcohol andunder screwcap with a pinch of CO2 to liven it up on the palate. The nose ismix of citrus and green melon, guava and mineral notes. The wine is colourlessbut the attack fresh with more citrus water and fresh fruit. Another fun winebest served with pre-dinner bites. Good value.

 

The Beachhouse Red2010, Western Cape, South Africa

Price $12 | Score 86/100

UPC: 6001506905169

A successful red blend mixing 65/20/15 shiraz, mourvedreand viognier. Fruity and spicy, it hits all the right notes on entry with softsucculent fruit with bits of cocoa and dried herbs and a savoury undercurrent.Grilled meats or cheese are all good fits for food. Surprisingly clean andfresh for a cheap South African red. Enjoy.

 

Ogier Côtes duRhône Heritages Rouge 2011, Rhone Valley, France

Price $18 | Score 88/100

UPC: 00714320135006

All the viticulture changes at Ogier are reaping rewardsespecially in tannin management. The nose and palate yield an attractive spicyedge with dried herbs/garrigue, red fruits, dusty tannins with hint of milkchocolate. All the fruit is grown using the organic method but it is notcertified and comes off four separate areas in the southern Rhone. A solidRhone red that will improve in bottle over the next three to five years.

 

Finca Los PrimosMalbec Bianchi 2012, San Rafael, General Alvear, Mendoza, Argentina

Price $12 | Score 87/100

UPC: 07790703167195

Slightly reduced on opening but once in the glass for aminute or two, expect it to open, offering fresh, juicy, raspberry/black cherryfruit with flecks of chocolate and dried herbs. The textures are soft, thetannins light and the fruit flavours persist through the finish. A perfect redfor pizza or pasta dishes.

 

La Posta MalbecCocina Tinto 2011, Perdriel District, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Price $18 | Score 88/100

UPC: 835603001396

Nice to see this label do so well in a blind tasting.It's been over-delivering for years and did so at World Wine Awards. The blendis a fresh mix of 60/20/20 malbec/syrah/bonarda. Look for juicy, floral blackfruit with a savoury edge with some complexity and lean stylish finish. Goodvalue.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.