Best of BC Release

The selection, as compiled by British Columbia portfolio manager Stephen Schiedel, offers you a glimpse at some of the best wines made in the province.

As is the case with major wine competitions, not every winery participates so don't panic if what you think is the best wine in B.C. is not on the list. Over the years, I have learned that a handful of wineries, worldwide, choose not to participate in global marketing efforts for any number of reasons, making or at least thinking that they make wines far superior to its neighbour's wine or even more likely in B.C., they simply are unwilling to give up all the dollars they keep by selling their wine directly at the winery versus running them through government stores where the tax is just too painful for them to pay.

That said, some fourteen wineries are participating and there are a number of excellent selections that you seldom see in government stores. They are unlikely to disappear overnight but given how difficult it is to find these wines, it is an excellent opportunity to grab a few bottles for the cellar without having to trek all the way to the Okanagan Valley.

We begin with a remarkable wine: Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2008. This Kelowna-based Riesling made by winemaker David Paterson, who arrived at Tantalus via Oregon, New Zealand and finally as the former production winemaker at Henschke Cellars in Southern Australia, is like no other wine in the valley. Patterson works closely with vineyard manager Warwick Shaw to produce the definition of an iconoclastic wine. Freethinking and individualistic, the fruit (essentially grown organically) comes off a single block planted in 1978. Super intense aromas of lime and lemon preview a palate that is equally intense that offers up peachy, stone fruit characters, all with an incredible undercurrent of acidity. This wine will live forever but in the meantime you can drink it with just about any food you can think of. Stock up.

Howard Soon returns to these pages with his Sandhill Small Lots Program Syrah Phantom Creek Vineyard 2009. Soon, and talented grape grower Richard Cleave, who owns Phantom Creek on the acclaimed Black Sage Bench along the eastern edge of the south Okanagan, have continually set the standard for Syrah in the south Okanagan. Look for a blockbuster style here rich in meaty, black licorice, savoury, five-spice aromas with plenty of vanilla and mocha notes. The attack is dry and supple with more vanilla, mocha, savoury, spicy, peppery, cherry jam flavours. Warm and boisterous, this Syrah is not for the faint-hearted.

The Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2008 is a fine upgrade from the previous edition, adding riper fruit to an intoxicating mix of savoury, peppery, black-fruit aromas. The attack is dry and rich with savoury, licorice, dried herb and black cherry fruit. We love the balance here and the sweet tannins that make the difference in the finish. Winemaker Randy Picton often runs under the celebrity line in B.C. but he is as talented as they come when it comes to exposing fruit and place. Roast lamb anyone?

A tannat/Syrah blend seems an unlikely mix in B.C. but the Moon Curser Dead of the Night 2009 only goes to prove that the Okanagan is a young valley and no grape varieties should be eliminated too soon in our exploration of what will or won't be successful in B.C. Expect an intense prune-plum nose with cherry, savoury, spice and vanilla notes flecked with meaty tobacco, coffee aromas. The attack is dry and supple, the palate slightly austere but with fresh acidity and meaty, smoky, cherry jam, rhubarb and savoury flavours. It finishes warm or alcoholic but with solid fruit.

Two giant labels finish our picks.

Mission Hill Oculus 2007 remains a solid bet. I recently re-tasted this red and can confirm it is one of the best we have tasted made by winemaker John Simes. The nose is an exotic mix of south Okanagan black olive, cassis, menthol and mineral undertone with bits of cherry jam, vanilla, coffee, meat, tobacco and saddle leather. The attack is rich and dry with full, warm, finegrained, smooth tannins that lead into a rich blackberry jam, cassis, coffee, black olive and tobacco flavour red. The finish is long and warm but there are still some youthful tannins and oak to shed. Most classic fall dishes would work here, especially those with mushrooms. Decant for 45 minutes minimum, or cellar through 2017.

One of the highest scoring wines at the 2011 Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards was the very fine Painted Rock Red Icon 2008, 100 per cent grown on the Skaha Bench in the mid-Okanagan Valley. Bordeaux-based consultant Alain Sutre's steady hand (also seen at Osoyoos Larose, Burrowing Owl and Poplar Grove) is guiding this wine's persona, which is trending toward elegant. Expect intense smoky, meaty, gamy, tobacco, barnyard aromas but all with a supple and fresh attack and light tannins. The palate offers up more cassis jam, black cherry, coffee, cedar, tobacco, licorice, chocolate and savoury tea flavours. The '08 Icon is a 30/25/25/20 mix of Merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot all aged 18 months in new French oak. Again, grilled meats, game or wild birds would be a fine match here.

Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2008, Okanagan Valley

Price: $30

UPC: 626990054689

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Old Vines is the definition of iconoclastic. Freethinking and individualistic.

Sandhill Small Lots Program Syrah Phantom Creek Vineyard 2009, Okanagan Valley

Price: $40

UPC: 058976500178

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Dry, round, supple, fresh palate with savoury, cherry jam flavours.

Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2008, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley

Price: $35

UPC: 836909004098

Score: 90/100

Remarks: We love the balance here, and the sweet tannins. Roast lamb anyone?

Moon Curser Dead of the Night 2009, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley

Price: $38

UPC: 00626990091820

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Intense prune plum nose with cherry, savoury, spice and vanilla.

Mission Hill Oculus 2007, Okanagan Valley

Price: $70

UPC: 776545981219

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Supple, refined blackberry jam, cassis and black olive and tobacco flavours.

Painted Rock Red Icon 2008, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley

Price: $55

UPC: 0062699095385

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Light tannins with cassis jam, black cherry, savoury tea flavours.

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