Beringer Vineyards

I've been given any number of explanations for the shortages at some booths from underestimating the size of the crowd, to a large and unexpected afternoon turnout by the trade to believe it or not disgruntled wineries and/or agents unhappy with any left over wine disappearing, albeit legitimately, into consulate cellars. Keep in mind that fund-raising tastings begin with wine donated by participating wineries and imported tax-free under consular privilege. While the arrangement leaves the attached charity a much needed infusion of cash any leftover bottles are the property of the consulate and that appears to rub some people the wrong way. Whatever the excuses for the shortfall at the tasting tables they need to be remedy immediately. False advertising may be too serious a charge but the success of future events may be judged more by the quantity of the wine available late in the evening as opposed to its quality and that would be a shame. After speaking with California Wine Fair organisers, next in line to visit Vancouver on Friday March 1 and expressing my concerns about the aforementioned shortages they have assured me the record 77 wineries headed for B.C. will not run out of wine. Enough said. Today we preview a number of Beringer wines including three labels from its all new Stone Cellars series especially developed to address the dearth of California wine under $15. It's no coincidence that Beringer's recent absorption at the hands of Australia's Mildara Blass (the new mega-wine company known world wide as Beringer Blass) has the California producer looking at a price segment currently owned by Chile and Australia in this market. With Stone Cellars the interesting twist is that winemaker Mary Sullivan has developed the wines with the help of Jane Robichaud, Beringer's director of winemaking research who help to define the fruity, smooth-drinking flavour profile they believe consumers want. Creating affordable wines attuned to what consumers want to drink is nothing new at Mildara Blass and it's obviously begun to permeate the Beringer wine culture in California. While none of the wines approach the heights of Beringer's legendary Napa-based chardonnay or cabernet neither do the prices. Here's what I found, The new fighting varietal Stone Cellars Chardonnay has fresh, peachy fruit aromas on the nose with a dusting of pear and butter. Similar fruit flavours mark the taste with a buttery oily finish. Fine weight and balance and just enough residual to give it wide appeal. A true bargain for California chardonnay drinkers. The introductory Beringer Zinfandel opens with an appealing spicy/rootsy berry jam nose. The fruit is round and "sweet" with smoky root beer-like flavours. Cooked jam flavours mark the finish. It's an affordable, quaffable red wine that will work with most grilled meat items of the barbecue. The Founders' Estate Pinot Noir reveals a mix of soya/tea leaf and leather aromas with spicy, strawberry fruit in the background. Cooked strawberries and lots of tea leaf flavours streak the smoky/clove flavoured finish. Solid and drinkable but not particularly expressive pinot noir. Look for ripe cherry/kirsch aromas with hints of barnyard and spice in the Stone Cellars Merlot. It's predictably soft and round (textbook merlot textures) with minty, smoky, herbal, cherry flavours. It's not as clean or as its Chilean competition but it too is ready to drink. The Stone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon smells of smoked shoe leather and fresh cracked pepper giving it more of an old-style, California cabernet nose. The entry is smooth and mouth-filling but the fruit taste is stewed and lacks vibrancy. The price is excellent but it really needs brighter, fresher fruit to sing out. New from Beringer is the Founders' Estate Shiraz. The California version opens with a peppery, barnyard, soya, tea-leaf (low fruit) nose. Its round and supple textures will appeal to many, although some will think it a bit flabby. Its soft, spicy, peppery, earthy flavours make it food friendly. Well made and fun to drink but no bargain when compared to numerous Australian versions. You can catch up with Beringer and 76 other California wineries at the 2002 California Wine Fair at the West Bayshore Resort and Marina, March 1 at 7 p.m. Tickets are 49.75 each and can be purchased through the box office of the event beneficiary The Arts Club Theatre at (604) 687-1644. Weekend Wine Tasting: Beringer Vineyards, California Wine Stone Cellars 2000 Chardonnay Price $14.95 Stock No. 606806 Score 16/20 Remarks Excellent value full-flavoured California chardonnay. Wine Beringer 2000 Zinfandel Price $13.95 Stock No. 567453 Score 14/20 Remarks Spicy, root beer and cooked jammy fruit. Wine Founders' Estate 1999 Pinot Noir Price $23.95 Stock No. 579623 Score 14/20 Remarks Soft round, cooked strawberries, cloves. Wine Stone Cellars 1999 Merlot Price $14.95 Stock No. 606814 Score 14/20 Remarks Simple, supple and ready-to-drink. Wine Stone Cellars 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Price $14.95 Stock No. 606798 Score 13.5/20 Remarks Soft stewed fruit flavours. Wine Founders' Estate 1998 Shiraz Price $23.95 Stock No. 579615 Score 15/20 Remarks Soft dry, earthy style, perfect for barbecue.