Beefy Reds for the 'Cue

Okay so it's still spring, but who really cares? It's the extra day off that counts and more than that, it is the unofficial kick-off to the barbecue season. We West Coast types like to brag that we barbecue year round, and we do, but without sweaters and umbrellas it just seems a bit more like, well, barbecue weather.

The May long weekend is traditionally one of the busiest for those who sell barbecues and judging by the television commercials and print ads that have been running for weeks, we all need a new barbecue, especially the men. From now until Father's Day, it would seem every retailer is thinking we men are keen to acquire a fancy new grill, or at the very least, umpteen pieces of useless barbecue paraphernalia.

Let me say now, men are not born with any particular barbecue skills. So why we expect them to turn into Mario Batali the minute the barbecue is fired up is beyond me. I have a good friend who describes the barbecue process as "men in the backyard burning beef," and I think she is closer to the truth than she knows.

That said 'tis the season for barbecue, so today's picks are themed around the idea of "barbecue," including a single white selection. I feel the white wine tide turning in British Columbia, so you can expect us to explore more and more whites as the warm weather returns. In the meantime, it's mostly red today.

Although wineries seldom characterize their wines as "barbecue reds," lest we think of them as not serious, the facts are everybody is looking for the great barbecue red, (translation: an inexpensive, sturdy, fun-sipping wine) that will stand up to the smoke and charred food. Today we offer six such candidates based on recent tastings and availability.

California zinfandel was the classic barbecue wine before most labels became seriously over-priced, but the Painter Bridge Zinfandel 2005 with its fruity blackberry, blueberry fruit and mocha oak and peppery, meaty aromas over-delivers. The entry is soft and round with mostly supple tannins. On the palate, the fruit is a mix of juicy cedar-y blackberry plum with hints of coal and licorice. A better than average, easy-sipping barbecue red at a fair price.

A few weeks ago I mistakenly published a preview look of a Parducci '05 Petite Sirah instead of today's Parducci Petite Sirah 2004 already on the shelves. The '04 Mendocino County red has a terrific nose of spicy, blueberry notes flecked with black cherry and smoky, floral, gamey notes. It is dry and round on entry with more licorice, smoky, spicy, plummy, violet and mocha flavours. A touch tannic, but with a good solid fruit core that will only get better over the next year or two in the bottle. Grilled beef is the ticket here.

The Pascual Toso Malbec 2005 continues to over-deliver while demonstrating classic malbec character. Look for a big savoury, gamey, spicy, menthol, black cherry, cedar, licorice nose with ripe, fat, full-bodied mouth texture and smooth tannins. More peppery, menthol, black cherry, orange and savoury tobacco flavours. Fine value and wonderful intensity for the price.

Barbecue reds need not be inexpensive. In fact, for those of us who enjoy a great glass of wine at small gatherings, sometimes its nice to have something more serious. That's what the Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Reserva 2004 brings to the table. Rich, ripe and dry with fine intensity, it's full of spicy orange, black plum jam flavours streaked with minty, peppery, tobacco, coriander and vanilla. It has fine intensity and length with super ripe fruit and good acidity. This is the type of wine that builds a category and brings consumers into the Argentine section.

Along a similar serious vein is the Quinta do Vallado Douro Vinho Tinto 2004. Like the '03, the '04 has all that big smoky, peppery, licorice-root aroma up front with bits of cherry jam and mint in the finish. The entry is dry, but well balanced and there is no obvious wood. Soft peppery fruit with licorice and black cherry and just a dusting of tannin in the finish. Try with any roasted meats. A blend of mostly touriga nacional and touriga franca. The wine is made by Francisco Olazabal who is responsible for the delicious, elegantly-styled wines at Quinta do Vale Meão and you can see some similarities.

Barbecue wines need not always be red as evidenced by the Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chardonnella Chardonnay 2005. This is a new listing from the Boisset folks who own Bouchard Aîné & Fils. Chardonnella is a simple straight-up chardonnay from the Pays d'Oc. The wine is fresh with citrus, melon, red apple notes and a clean, dry finish. It is a very serviceable luncheon style/picnic white that will work with most dishes as opposed to against them. Solid value.

Gentleman and ladies, light your barbecues!

Painter Bridge Zinfandel 2005, California, United States
Price: $13.99
UPC: 089121168523
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Supple style with spicy, black berry flavours.

Parducci Petite Sirah 2004, Mendocino County, California, United States
Price: $17.95
UPC: 00086828000231
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Licorice, smoky, spicy, black cherry, plum, violet and mocha flavours.

Pascual Toso Malbec 2005, Maipu, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $11.99
UPC: 718742000058
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Peppery, menthol, black cherry, orange, savoury flavours. Fine value and intensity.

Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Reserva 2004, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $21.99
UPC: 07790975001487
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Fine intensity and length with super ripe fruit, but good acidity.

Quinta do Vallado Douro Vinho Tinto 2004, Douro Valley, Portugal
Price: $21.99
UPC: 05604823000282
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Soft, peppery fruit with licorice and black cherry, and just a dusting of tannin.

Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chardonnella Chardonnay 2005, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France
Price: $13.99
UPC: 3340180004885
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Fresh with citrus, melon, red-apple notes and a clean, dry finish.