The final details are still being worked out before the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch introduces provincewide changes to its store layouts and signage in response to the Cellared in Canada label controversy.
Customers are also likely equally confounded by the term VQA as it is used to refer to wines grown and produced in B.C.
Wine folks here like to toss around the VQA acronym as if it is the bible. In fact, VQA is short for Vintners Quality Alliance and, while it stands for a set of basic regulations established in 1990 to identify wines that are 100-per-cent grown and produced in B.C., the acronym itself simply doesn't get the message across to otherwise unsuspecting consumers. In this case the branch will identify authentic B.C. wine under a sign that is likely to read: 100-per-cent made in British Columbia, or grown and produced. How sensible and useful for wine buyers.
How B.C. wine is regulated and marketed going forward is another question.
This conversation has nothing to do with BCLDB stores or labels, but rather the current convoluted rules that govern B.C. wine. I've often thought we should erect a statute or two to the people who founded VQA to acknowledge their huge role in building the modern B.C. wine industry, then quickly move in a new direction and get on with systematically regulating every local grower and wine producer.
A good first step would be to blow up the current Wines of Marked Quality Regulations (another arrogant moniker) as it relates to the old VQA regulations, and start from scratch. The government should cancel and reissue every winery licence in the province with a mandatory per-litre production fee that would pay for a yearly audit of grapes grown and wine produced by every winery licence holder. In less than two years we would have a definitive public database of every vineyard and winery licensed in British Columbia with details on hectares planted, varieties planted, production figures and any other basic information required to make sure no one is abusing the system.
The fees should also cover any costs required to maintain a single B.C. Wineries Association marketing office to do basic marketing and brand-building focusing on the origins and labelling of B.C.-labelled wines. We should also license all grape growers who sell grapes to wineries to close the loop on production figures of homegrown wine.
After that, if a group of wineries or a region (Vancouver Island, Golden Mile, Naramata) wants to create an association of producers to imposed tougher standards on its wines (and pay for it themselves) in the belief it might set them apart from the masses, knock yourself out. But we must not allow any region or subregion to steal the rights of any Canadian wine producer to tell the public the basic (audited) origin of his or her wine.
The fundamental tenets of Canadian wine should be that growers grow, wineries produce and government or a respected third party certifies the origin and content of any bottle produced in the province. After that, consumers can make up their own minds. Simple, straightforward, non-political and most importantly, useful for consumers who want basic information about the wines they are buying.
Now, how about six interesting wines to sip on while you mull all this over?
Take a fresh, elegant, grassy, lemon, spicy sauvignon blanc, put it under screwcap and you end up with a modern, delicious, elegant Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc Charlotte's Home Estate Vineyards 2008 with passion fruit and spicy gooseberry flavours to spare.
The Yalumba Viognier 2008 is deliciously ripe and rich with a touch of sweetness and plenty of mango, ginger, butter, honey, orange Creamsicle, floral flavours. I love the cool finesse and delicacy here. Drink now.
Our killer value this week is the Castillo de Almansa Reserva 2005, a 70/30 blend of tempranillo and monastrell with a smooth seductive supple texture to match its smoky, spicy, plummy fruit aromas and flavours.
I think you will love the approachability of Altesino Rosso Toscano and its delicious factor. The 80-per-cent sangiovese mixed with 20-per-cent merlot and cabernet sauvignon is oak-free, offering better fruit, smooth supple tannins and a vibrant earthy, woodsy finish packed with fruit all supercharged by the excellent 2007 vintage.
The driest year since 1983 has produced an intense Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2007. This nose is overtly aromatic with white pepper, rosemary, cinnamon and licorice undertones. The palate is more of the same with a minty, dried blueberries and black-fruit character. It's juicy, friendly and ready to drink; you can serve this all fall with grilled meats.
Finally, the Liberty School Syrah 2007 is listed in B.C. Simply delicious, it combines beautiful floral notes with rich dark berry fruit flavours. Winemaker Austin Hope adds a dash of viognier to the mix to cleave open the syrah, stabilize the colour and lift the aromatics. Well done.
RODNEY STRONG SAUVIGNON BLANC CHARLOTTE'S HOME 2008, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $20, private wine stores only
UPC: 0087512943056
Score: 89/100
Remarks: A fresher, cleaner, version under screw cap.
YALUMBA VIOGNIER 2008, EDEN VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $28
UPC: 0008920830034
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Friendly, delicious style. Drink now.
CASTILLO DE ALMANSA RESERVA 2005, CASTILLA-LA MANCHA, SPAIN
Price: $13
UPC: 8414837010118
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Seductive supple textures match the smoky, spicy, plummy fruit.
ALTESINO ROSSO TOSCANA 2007, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $22
UPC: 00662255620336
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Supercharged by the excellent 2007 vintage.
JIM BARRY THE LODGE HILL SHIRAZ 2007, CLARE VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $29
UPC: 9314487457013
Score: 90/100
Remarks: The driest year since 1983 has produced some intense shiraz.
LIBERTY SCHOOL SYRAH 2007, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA
Price: $24
UPC: 657891799225
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Look for beautiful floral notes with rich dark berry fruit.