BC Wine Gets a New Authority

wine, the British Columbia Wine Institute (BCWI) will soon detach itself from the business of enforcing wine standards and focus on marketing and research.

By early summer licensed B.C. wineries will fall under a single arms-length government entity known as the British Columbia Wine Authority (BCWA). The new BCWA will enforce both basic and advanced levels of quality wine production and will assume responsibility for the British Columbia Vintners Quality Alliance (BC VQA) wine standards.

The transfer of responsibilities will allow the BCWI to focus on marketing, government advocacy and communications in support of BC VQA wines and its burgeoning wine regions. In short, the new BCWI will operate as an industry trade association representing (at the moment) 51 wineries that account for nearly 90 per cent of VQA wine sold in the province.

Director Peggy Athans says the plan is, "To continue building on our momentum to establish BC VQA as the preferred premium wine brand in BC, while creating a positive business climate for our member wineries."

Wouldn't it be nice if the BCWI had the support of the entire industry as it moves forward to promote B.C. wine but in a wine world full of unique individuals and entrepreneurs it's unlikely to happen. That said as the BCWI begins its new journey those wineries undecided about signing on as members would do well to consider where BC wine would be today without VQA or the BCWI.

Today we explore some of the finest local wines via the year's first Best of BC release in BC Liquor stores. It's an impressive list of hard to find wines and while I can only pick six almost everything on the list is worth buying.

I am a big fan of the Mission Hill S.L.C. Chardonnay 2004 and the S.L.C. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004 but today I wanted to let you know about a new wine they have released ― B3 Chardonnay Three Bear Ranch 2003.

Three Bear Ranch, named after the bear and her cubs purported to frolic in the vineyard and who have a penchant for eating the best grapes has buttery, peach, canned pineapple nose. It's round, dry and slightly oily on the palate with mineral, lees, butterscotch, canned pineapple and green apple flavours. The finish mixes vanilla and lime rind notes in a fresh, clean inviting style. Good effort.

More impressive is the Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2004. Winemaker Randy Picton has conquered the oak barrel in 2004 and given us a delicious spicy, cinnamon, baked apple chardonnay nose with nutty, floral, orange notes. Dry, elegant, slightly fat entry the finish is warm with plenty of pear and citrus notes. Ready to drink with fine sophistication. Try with grilled seafood.

Better yet is the CedarCreek Chardonnay Platinum Reserve 2004. I love the inviting creamy lees and green apple nose with hazelnut, vanilla, floral, citrus aromas.  It is rich and elegant on the palate with spicy lees, nutty, citrus, baked apple, butterscotch and melon flavours. It has fine balance and acidity and is showing some finesse and integration. Will improve over the next 1-2 years. Best yet from winemaker Tom Di Bello.

One of the most consistent performers among B.C.'s top labels is the Sumac Meritage Blanc and the latest Sumac Ridge Meritage Blanc 2004 is no exception. Ripe, round, rich and soft it has an oily texture and big creamy vanilla, buttered popcorn, grapefruit, melon, flavours. The 80/20 blend of sauvignon blanc /sémillon is still young and will require another two to three years in bottle to fully develop.

Your only chance to purchase winemaker Howard Soon's Sandhill Small Lots Program Three Burrowing Owl Vineyard will be this weekend in B.C. Liquor stores. I expect the 53/21/13/13 blend of barbera, sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon will sell out in a matter of hours.

On the palate it is round and dry with elegant supple characters and spicy, black cherry, mocha, vanilla, peppery, fruit with a touch of cardamom. The best red blend yet from Sandhill.

Similarly well made is the Sandhill Small Lots Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2003 has a wonderful smoky, peppery, chocolate, black cherry nose with a touch of game. It fairly round and soft on the palate with gamey, black cherry, vanilla, bitter chocolate flavours. Its warm (alcoholic) but well balanced and supple. It should improve over the next 2-3 years in bottle. Serve with grilled sausages.

B3 CHARDONNAY THREE BEAR RANCH 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price     $24.95
UPC      776545300010
Score   87/100
Remarks           Cool B.C chardonnay with honey, floral, butterscotch notes.

NK'MIP CELLARS QWAM QWMT CHARDONNAY 2004, OSOYOOS, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price     $24.99
UPC      836909011416
Score   90/100
Remarks           Fine sophistication; serve with grilled fished.

CEDARCREEK CHARDONNAY PLATINUM RESERVE 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price     $28.99
UPC      778913064043
Score   91/100
Remarks           Rich, elegant, nutty, citrus, baked apple, butterscotch, melon flavours.

SUMAC RIDGE MERITAGE BLANC 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price     $19.99
UPC      778876149771
Score   87/100
Remarks           Big creamy vanilla, grapefruit, melon, flavours.

SANDHILL SMALL LOTS PROGRAM THREE BURROWING OWL VINEYARD 2003, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price     $29.99
UPC      058976350704
Score   90/100
Remarks           The best red blend yet from Sandhill.

SANDHILL SMALL LOTS PROGRAM CABERNET SAUVIGNON - SYRAH 2003, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price     $26.99
UPC      058976350742
Score   88/100
Remarks           Warm and dry but well balanced with supple textures. Well done.