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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

In 2003, B.C.

B.C. Lt.-Gov. Awards 2005

Lt.-Gov. Iona Campagnolo consulted with the province's wine industry to establish an awards program that would honour excellence in wines made from 100-per-cent B.C.-grown grapes.

The annual competition, supported and primarily administered by the Government House Foundation, has wrapped up year three and this week, the lieutenant governor announced the winners. Nine wineries claimed the 10 awards, giving you an idea of just how competitive the race has become.

The results -- as determined by a five-person panel that included me, author/writer John Schreiner, Western Living wine writer Sid Cross, B.C. Liquor Distribution Branch buyer Stephen Schiedel and Okanagan-based wine writer Julianna Hayes -- emanate from two days of tasting at which we were simply asked to select the best 10 wines submitted.

I, for one, enjoyed the tasting format. After a one-day, double-blind elimination round, a short list of the best returned the following day, where after further scrutiny, the best were recommended for awards.

Unique to the judging is the presence of Herb LeRoy, director of Government House. Leroy observed the proceedings and tasted every wine along with the judges so that when it comes time to buy wine to be served to visiting dignitaries, he not only has a handle on the winners but is also familiar with the other wines that may not have made the final round.

I was particularly impressed by the organization of Government House, the tasting procedures and the obvious commitment of the lieutenant governor's office to raising the awareness of B.C. wine.

But enough about the judging. Here are winning wines: Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards 2003 See ya Later Ranch Brut, Summerhill Pyramid Winery 2004 Ehrenfelser, Cedar Creek Estate 2003 Platinum Reserve Chardonnay, Wild Goose Vineyards 2004 God's Mountain Riesling, Domaine de Chaberton 2004 Gewurztraminer, Jackson-Triggs 2002 Proprietors' Grand Reserve Shiraz, Burrowing Owl 2003 Syrah, Sandhill Small Lots 2003 Syrah Phantom Creek Vineyard, Poplar Grove 2002 Benchmark Cabernet Franc and Cedar Creek Estate 2002 Platinum Reserve Meritage.

Campagnolo will visit the winning wineries Aug. 10 and 11 to present a trophy and certificate. Many of the wines are already on allocation to restaurants, retailers and longtime buyers, but here are my thoughts on four of the award-winners you may still be able to buy.

Many of these wines will disappear quickly, so we have added two additional picks tasted this week that are readily available in VQA wine shops and government liquor stores.

One of the tasting standouts was the Summerhill Pyramid Winery Ehrenfelser 2004. It has a fabulous sweet fruit nose with orange peel and ripe red apple flavours flecked with mineral, grapefruit and sweet peach. A very appealing summer sipper with enough sweet fruit to pair well with spicy Thai or Indian food.

The Jackson-Triggs Shiraz Proprietors' Reserve 2002 remains in fine shape. Look for a soft, round, smooth red with chocolate, sweet vanilla, plum pudding and peppery flavours. Still improving in the bottle.

The Burrowing Owl Syrah 2003 is probably available only in restaurants at this point, but the rich, fat, warm red with blackberry jam and smoky, peppery, mineral, gamy flavours and the long, minty, smoky meat finish is worth looking for.

The third syrah to show well at the tasting is the Sandhill Small Lots Program Syrah Phantom Creek Vineyard 2003. Another supple red, it mixes vanilla, smoky oak and peppery pudding with black cherry and anise flavours. Drink or hold this award winner.

My two picks for celebrating B.C. Day should be a little less work to find, beginning with a terrific white: Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc 2004, Okanagan Valley. Look for a fresh nose of pear, mineral perfume and nectarine skin. It's lively on the palate with citrus, peach, butter, clover, honey and green apple flavours. A touch sweet but with fine acidity and fruit intensity.

The red is a very solid Quails' Gate Merlot Limited Release 2003 with smoky, spicy, cardamom, cherry, coffee nose and dry, slightly tannic peppery, coffee cedar flavours and a chewy, cherry, minty finish.


SUMMERHILL PYRAMID WINERY EHRENFELSER 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $18.95 VQA/Private Wine Stores
UPC: 77900026012
Score: 87/100
Remarks: An appealing summer sipper with sweet fruit flavours.

JACKSON-TRIGGS SHIRAZ PROPRIETORS' RESERVE 2002, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $18.99 VQA/Private Wine Stores
UPC: 063657005712
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Chocolate, sweet vanilla, plum pudding and peppery flavours.

BURROWING OWL SYRAH 2003, OLIVER, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $29.95 (may be available only in restaurants)
UPC: 626990004493
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Rich, round, fat and ripe with blackberry jam. A keeper.

SANDHILL SMALL LOTS PROGRAM SYRAH PHANTOM CREEK VINEYARD 2003, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $29.99 VQA/Private Wine Stores
UPC: 058976320615
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Smooth, round, supple red with spicy black cherry pudding.

LAKE BREEZE PINOT BLANC 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $14.90 Private Wine Stores
UPC: 6269900003069
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Delicious fresh pear, honey and nectarines.

QUAILS' GATE MERLOT LIMITED RELEASE 2003, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $19.99 B.C. Liquor Stores
UPC: 778856103236
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Smoky, clove, vanilla, coffee, pepper and chewy mint cherry.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.