B.C. Has A New Wine Sheriff

Wine Authority. After years of squabbling among themselves, British Columbia wineries have a new master they will have to answer to, and a whole new set of wine laws to obey.

New standards and regulations for the B.C. wine industry have been passed into law by an order in council dated July 18, 2007. The BC Wine Authority (BCWA) is the new body and it's charged with implementing the newly enacted Wines of Marked Quality Regulation for B.C.'s wine industry and with all future changes.

As far as I can ascertain, there are now two levels of B.C. wine: a new entry-level referred to in the legislation as a B.C. wine of distinction (essentially non-VQA made in B.C. wine) and VQA wines that are B.C. wines of distinction that go through the new, and slightly watered downed old VQA rules.

The government says that, "following an unsuccessful 2006 plebiscite on proposed amendments to the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation, government has proceeded with an amendment that allows the British Columbia Wine Authority to fully implement the wines of marked quality program and ensure the quality and marketability of B.C. wines is protected."

It seems even the government has had enough of the incessant squabbling that has pitted VQA producers against non-VQA, small against big, Vancouver Island producers against Okanagan Valley and countless other factions.

The good news is every winery is now subject to meeting some basic production standards as administered by the government. The bad news is, to include everyone the standards are not as stringent as they could have been. Those opposed to onerous, so-called costly VQA standards can claim a small victory but you can bet they won't be lowering their prices below those of VQA wines to match the new watered-down standards.

In fact, now that you can prove you are a British Columbia product without using the VQA standard and you can pretty much fetch the same price I'm not sure what the financial incentive is to use VQA on your label. VQA purists may have underestimated the charm of the symbol thinking that being a level above the wines of distinction would be desirable. Those against may have killed the golden goose by chipping away at the tasting panel, grape varieties and the faults lists all of which are less stringent under the new rules.

If you ask me the VQA standard should have been the entry level and a new higher VQA-plus standard should have been adopted for those wineries aspiring to greater things. That way, all B.C. producers could have revelled in the success for VQA. VQA has been the single biggest success story in local wine, yet the majority of producers now sit outside the VQA circle, claiming it's too expensive or that the former VQA regime does not understand small wineries.

Then there is the small matter of British Columbia Wine Institute and the image of B.C. wine. For a mere nine cents a litre everyone should be a voluntary member, yet instead of supporting the marketing arm that is essentially responsible for a whopping average VQA price of $22.09 (and by osmosis the same price for non-members) many wineries choose to trash the BCWI.

Okay enough, it's now way more fun to drink British Columbia wine than talk about it. Let's leave the heavy lifting to the BCWA.

The Quails' Gate Chasselas -- Pinot Blanc 2006 is the ultimate summer sipper. Look for fresh mineral, floral notes in an otherwise delicious sipping white wine.

While I'm not a huge fan of pinot blanc, the Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Blanc Reserve 2005 is a winner with its red apple, nectarine, and citrus rind flavours. Serve with summer salads.

The latest Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2006 is all sold out but you will find in restaurants and private wine shops. Look for fresh juicy mineral fruit with bits of red apple honey and ripe pear, a fine effort that sets B.C. pinot gris apart for its competitors.

Our first red is the Church and State Syrah 2005. The Vancouver Island winery with the Okanagan vineyards has produced a stylish peppery, vanilla, chocolate pudding-flavoured syrah spiked with black cherry and licorice root. Grab it while you can.

The Mission Hill Pinot Noir Five Vineyards 2005 is a fine introductory-style, luncheon pinot noir.

Look for cinnamon, spicy, aromas, a supple entry, and a smoky resiny, celery salt, black fruit flavours. Drink with food.

The new Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2005 is equally beguiling with its spicy, plum, peppery, licorice notes and smoky tobacco flavours. There are still some light tannins to shed but should be a solid performer for the next two years.

---

QUAILS' GATE CHASSELAS-PINOT BLANC 2006, Okanagan Valley
Price: $16
UPC: 77856106053
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Look for fresh mineral, floral notes in this delicious sipping white.

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN PINOT BLANC RESERVE 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $14
UPC: 00620654011070
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Red apples, nectarines, and citrus notes.

BURROWING OWL PINOT GRIS 2006,
OLIVER, Okanagan Valley
Price: $20.00
UPC: 626990000068
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Fresh juicy mineral red apple, honey fruit flavours.

CHURCH AND STATE SYRAH 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $26.00
UPC: 00626990068501
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Big rich, oaky red with plenty of fruit.

MISSION HILL PINOT NOIR
FIVE VINEYARDS 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $18.99
UPC: 00776545995162
Score: 85/100
Remarks: A likable red wine with a warm spicy, rootsy finish.

NK'MIP CELLARS QWAM QWMT SYRAH 2005, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley
Price: $34.99 winery direct and restaurants
UPC: 836909004098
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Some light tannins to shed but should be a solid performer over time.