Austria Wine

liquor stores more than a decade ago. They enjoyed limited success here in the late 1970s and early '80s, and most of that was for fairly sweet, late-harvest wines. In 1985, a very public scandal in which some producers were found to be bolstering their wines with illegal substances devastated Austria's international image, and its products virtually dropped off vendors' shelves across North America. Ever since, the Austrians have had a long, slow, tortuous climb back to respectability, especially in the export markets. Now a limited range is back in selected B.C. stores. Today, most Austrian wines are varietals -- a single grape variety is used for each product. The whites are led by Gruner Veltliner, perhaps the most typical, with its fruity, peppery highlights and an inherent ability to pair well with a wide range of foods. Muller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weissburgunder (pinot blanc) are made in lesser quantities. Reds account for a surprising 20 per cent of Austria's vineyards, although overseas the wines remain largely unknown, except by a few connoisseurs. With names like Blauer Zweigelt, Blauer Portugieser and Blaufrankisch, it's not hard to understand why so few people know these wines. But some are definitely worth getting to know. Today's tasting report is a composite of my own notes and scores, along with remarks from David Scholefield, senior portfolio manager and European wine buyer for the liquor distribution branch, and Bertold Salomon, director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, from a tasting held earlier this year. All the wines reviewed are now available in B.C. As consumers become more familiar with the crisp, clean style of these wines (you might describe it as a cross between New Zealand and British Columbia), the category should expand. Here's our report: GV 2000 was the first of three Gruner Veltliners. It opens with bright, lemon/citrus aromas on the nose, with white pepper and mineral highlights. On the palate it is fresh and tart, with some bitter rind flavours in the finish. The structure is firm, thanks to the acidity, but this is a light wine. A clean sipper for the patio, but serve with food. The Wachau Gruner Veltliner is labelled "Federspiel" or Kabinett style, which means no sugar is added and a minimum alcohol level of 12.7 per cent -- translation: a bigger, richer wine in the mouth. Look for lots of mineral flavours mixed with strong lemon/grassy aromas and flavours. It has pucker power, but the wine is thinner than it should be given the vintage. The final Gruner Veltliner is made by Hiedler, a highly respected producer from the Kamptal region. The nose is much riper, with some green apple and citrus fruit. It still has the lean Veltliner styling, with lots of citric fruit flavours, white pepper and a tart finish. A simple wine for uncomplicated drinking that would be fine with simply prepared snapper, sole or halibut. Willi Opitz is one of Austria's top producers and promoters. This pinot blanc has quite a rich, peachy nose with fine mineral highlights. Its slightly riper, sweeter fruit makes it richer in the mouth and easy to drink. It's riper than most B.C. pinot blanc, but very dry in the finish. Fettuccine alfredo with a dash of nutmeg would be perfect with it. Opitz One, a clever name play on the Mondavi-Rothschild Opus One, is a delicious dessert wine that rivals the best in the world. Look for a huge, sweet, fruit nose of apricots and peaches, and a pale red colour. On the palate, the flavours are similar, with some buttery honey notes in the finish. The unctuous super-sweet fruit suggests dried cherries and cranberries. Superb. WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Austria Producer: GV 2000 Gruner Veltliner 1997, Weinviertel Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 515726 Score: 11.5/20 Comment: Simple, mineral, lime-rind white. Producer: Freie Weingartner Wachau 1998 Gruner Veltliner "Federspiel" Price: $16.55 Stock No.: 987560 Score: 12/20 Comment: Lean, herbal, mineral-style white. Producer: Hiedler 1997 Gruner Veltliner Trocken Kamptal Price: $17.95 Stock No.: 528422 Score: 14/20 Comment: Intense, fruity with a dry finish. Producer: Willi Opitz 1997 Pinot Blanc Spatlese Neusiedlersee Price: $20.75 Stock No.: 519413 Score: 15.5/20 Comment: Full-flavoured peachy fruit; very dry finish. Producer: Willi Opitz 1995 Opitz One Schilfwein Neusiedlersee Price: $62.30 (375 mL) Stock No.: 519405 Score: 18/20 Comment: Rich, elegant, plum fruit bomb.