Australia Rules For The Moment

When it comes to imported wine, Australia rules in B.C. At the end of September, 2004 a 12-month running total of Down Under juice (red and white) guzzled by British Columbians topped 5.7 million litres -- a staggering 37 per cent increase over the previous year.

By Nov. 30 last year, Canada had become Australia's third largest export market spending $213.7 million dollars on Oz wine. I'm sure if you were to divide the dollars we spend by our meagre population, we would be at or near the top of any list of countries that spend the most per bottle on Australian wine.

If it sounds like a love affair, it is. The question is: How long it will last? Yellowtail and all those animal labels beside Australia's largest wineries are the subject of almost daily takeover bids as the world's largest drinks companies vie for a piece of the action. As a result, expanded production and share prices are at the forefront of an industry that once prided itself on innovative vineyard management and winemaking.

To say there is some slack in the system is an understatement. In fact many Australian winemakers that visit North American tell me they've never seen as many as 30 per cent of the Oz labels on our shelves because they do not exist in Australia.

Earlier this month the Wall Street Journal questioned the quality of inexpensive Oz chardonnay finding few if any memorable bottles in a blind tasting. Noted American critic Robert Parker recently panned a number of high-end wines from Penfolds.

After years of massive plantings and with so many young vines, over-production of grapes and wines with little or no intensity or varietal flavour is becoming a problem at the entry level.

Whether it's earnest reporting or an American conspiracy to boost California's sagging image, it has to be of some concern to Australian producers. If the knives are out it only proves once again that being number two is far easier than sitting in the top spot.

That said; don't bet against the Australians folding their tents and running home. There is far too much substance Down Under to buckle under a bit of criticism.

For those of you unable to attend the show next week here's some wines you can check out at home.

Little Boomey Shiraz 2003 gets its fruit from all across South Australia and it blends about 15 per cent cabernet sauvignon into the mix. It has a firm, spicy, fleshy texture with good berry fruit flavours that surprise for the price. Good value.

From the large irrigated Riverina region comes the Deen De Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz 2002. It's hard not to notice the big black pepper, earthy aromas and dry, round, fairly soft palate. The flavours are a mix of spicy, black cherry and smoky licorice. It's warm but with fine fruit intensity but without that annoying sweet fruity/tutti aspect. Very solid wine.

Speaking of solid and consistent, don't miss the 2002 Peter Lehmann Shiraz. This is all-Barossa and a fine example of what the South Australian valley means to shiraz. The nose is super ripe and awash in plummy blackcurrant fruit. You taste the vanilla/oak, and just a hint of mocha together with plenty of spicy, briary fruity undertones. You can drink or hold this one over the next three to five years.

New to the market is the Ram's Leap Shiraz 2002 from the Western Plains Zone of New South Wales. Kudos to the leanish structure mixed with a white pepper and a briary, bramble fruit character -- that allows it to work seamlessly with food. More southern France than Oz in texture and flavour, this drier, spicy shiraz is a pleasure to sip.

The Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2002 hails from the cool-ish Clare Valley of South Australia, hence the minty, garrigue, smoky, meaty, black pepper and vanilla aromas. This one is super smooth and intense with big black berry jam, peppery, minty, spicy vanilla, chocolate pudding flavours and some blueberry, raspberry on the finish. Drink now or over the next year or two.

The finale is another new listing: Annvers Shiraz 2001 from the acclaimed McLaren Vale. Wayne & Myriam Keoghan are owners of the tiny boutique winery where they work on a small scale making single-sourced wines such as this McLaren Vale shiraz. Typically McLaren, it has that milk chocolate undertone with ripe blackberry, blueberry fruit and smoky peppery fruit. It's round, sweet, long and concentrated with a delicious, spicy finish.

Now that I've piqued your interest, there will be small blocks of tickets available through Ticketmaster only on January 24. Call 604-280-4444 or order them online at www.ticketmaster.com

Weekend Wine Tasting: Oz Shiraz

Wine  Little Boomey Shiraz 2003, New South Wales

Price   $12.99
UPC   727115005019
Score 86/100
Remarks      Firm, spicy, fleshy berry fruit flavours that surprise for the price.

Wine  Deen De Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz 2002, Riverina, New South Wales
Price   $18.99
UPC   9300752010366
Score 87/100
Remarks      Grilled lamb chops are the match here.

Wine  Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2002, Barossa Valley, South Australia
Price   $23.99
UPC   32726001238
Score 88/100
Remarks      Spicy, briary fruity undertones; zinfandel like shiraz.

Wine  Ram's Leap Shiraz 2002, Western Plains Zone, New South Wales
Price   $19.95
UPC   9326949002105
Score 88/100
Remarks      White pepper and a briary, bramble fruit character.

Wine  Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2002, Clare Valley, South Australia
Price   $28.99
UPC   9314487457013
Score 89/100
Remarks      Sweet black berry jam, peppery, minty, chocolate pudding.

Wine  Annvers Shiraz 2001, McLaren Vale, South Australia
Price   $39.95
UPC   9330000000030
Score 91/100
Remarks      Typically McLaren shiraz with milk chocolate and blueberry fruit.