Australia Day Celebrates Down Under Diversity

22 at the Australia Day Wine Fair at the Westin Bayshore. The public event runs from 7 to 9:30 p.m. and will include Australian wine, food, music and people.

Interestingly, this year's focus will be on the diversity of Australian wine, featuring picks from all over the island continent. It's good news given how many brands originate from the ubiquitous and giant appellation of South Eastern Australia. My guess is consumers will welcome any kind of diversity from Oz and the sooner the better.

Australia is ranked first among all imported wine sold in B.C., but a quick survey of local shelves would suggest most of the activity is confined to the large brands and a great deal of bland wine. At the other end of the scale, prices have jumped dramatically, pushing many benchmark and icon wines out of reach (and mind) of the average consumer.

It's an old story and one the Californians know well. Not long ago, California wine ruled B.C. shelves, led by the tasty wines of Napa and Sonoma. As the regions grow in stature and begin to expand their export markets, it leads to increased demand for the wine and eventually wineries have to allocate their best wine and raise prices.

Typically, the response of the wineries is to go outside their region, purchase cheap grapes and create a second label of essentially lesser wine. Once you start selling mediocre wines at higher prices, you leave yourself open to the next rising wine region and, before you know it, you are No. 2 and falling.

In the case of Australia, success and expansion has fuelled the growth of so many indifferent labels that the land Down Under could be in danger of losing its grip on a B.C. market that traditionally has paid more per litre for Oz wine than any other export market.

Last year, we consumed just less than six million bottles of Australian wine in B.C. -- a number I can assure you has the undivided interested of Australian vintners. Let's hope they have the same interest in addressing the sagging quality of wine under $15 so we don't lose our interest in them.

The Heart and Stroke Foundation of B.C. & Yukon will receive a portion of the proceeds generated by the $50 tickets to Australia Day Wine Fair. They are available through Ticketmaster at 604 280-4444 or online at www.ticketmaster.com

Today we look at just six of the wines that will be in the room on Jan. 22 and you can find all of then in B.C. government stores.

We begin with the St. Hallett Gamekeeper's Reserve 2001. Look for a soft entry on the palate with a spicy, gamey, floral, raspberry nose. Similar flavours mark what has been an amazingly consistent red from year to year. Grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre make up most of the blend that contains a dash of the rare Portuguese touriga variety.

Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2002 would have to get my vote as the most consistent red wine under $20 in Australia. Look for green bean, olive and roasted pepper notes in 2002 along with more typical spicy, smoky, cassis streaks. It's both round and rich with light, smooth tannins and chunky chocolate and blackberry flavours with a smoky, vanilla fresh finish. It is much better in the mouth than the slightly herbal nose would suggest.

Next up are a rare pair of Aussie pinots. The Wolf Blass Pinot Noir 2001 has a spicy, cedar, celery top nose with raspberry fruit notes. It is elegant on the palate with dry, smoky, vanilla, spicy, strawberry flavours and a resiny, Worcestershire finish. Think salmon and stock up.

The Tyrrell's Old Winery Pinot Noir 2002 has more of the classic strawberry jam and spicy, rootsy, compost barnyard aromas. Soft and round with rhubarb, licorice, strawberry and smoky barrel flavours, it finishes a bit dry. Over all, a solid pinot especially given the price.

The Goundrey Homestead Shiraz 2002 (owned by Canadian wine giant Vincor) is worth a look on price alone because Western Australia wine doesn't get much cheaper. Look for spicy, white pepper, resiny aromas with black fruit undertones. It is a supple balanced wine with a touch of sweetness and acidity mixed with black cherry, spicy, rosemary, peppery cola flavours and a smooth finish. A solid, commercial style that represents good value.

The finale is the outstanding Yalumba Grenache Barossa Bush Vine 2000. The nose is awash in ripe grenache fruit with spicy, cherry jam and licorice notes streaked with mineral, smoky leather and pepper. Very Gigondas-like (Rhone Valley) with massive black raspberry jam, cherry berry fruit and smoky, gamey licorice flavours. Round, supple, rich and delicious.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: AUSTRALIA DAY PICKS

Wine: St. Hallett Gamekeeper's Reserve 2001, Barossa Valley, South Australia
Price: $17.98
UPC: 9316920000077
Score: 15/20
Comments: Spicy, floral, raspberry aromas and flavours.

Wine: Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2002, South Eastern Australia
Price: $16.95
UPC: 012345071445
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Chunky peppery-chocolate and blackberry flavours.

Wine: Wolf Blass Pinot Noir Purple Label 2001, Yarra Valley, Australia
Price: $17.95
UPC: 098137000161
Score: 15/20
Comments: Dry, smoky, vanilla, spicy, strawberry flavours.

Wine: Tyrrell's Old Winery Pinot Noir 2002, South Eastern Australia
Price: $15.99
UPC: 93452407008
Score: 15/20
Comments: Soft entry with rhubarb, licorice, strawberry and smoky flavours.

Wine: Goundrey Homestead Shiraz 2002, Western Australia
Price: $12.95
UPC: 9316369003066
Score: 14/20
Comments: Black cherry, spicy, rosemary, peppery cola flavours.

Wine: Yalumba Grenache Barossa Bush Vine 2000, Barossa Valley
Price: $22.49
UPC: 9311789900933
Score: 16.5/20
Comments: Round, supple, rich and delicious.