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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

BUBBLE   85 Voga Pinot Grigio Vino Spumante Extra Dry N/V Veneto, ItalyBC $15.00 specialty listing, AB $17.00 private wine stores, MB $15.00, NS $16.00, ON $14.00, QC $16.00I often wonder why we are so lucky here in Canada to experience every commercial wine made in the world.

April 08/09 - Top Import Wine Picks in Canada

BUBBLE

 

85 Voga Pinot Grigio Vino Spumante Extra Dry N/V
Veneto, Italy
BC $15.00 specialty listing, AB $17.00 private wine stores, MB $15.00, NS $16.00, ON $14.00, QC $16.00
I often wonder why we are so lucky here in Canada to experience every commercial wine made in the world. The Voga sparkler is as you might expect sweet with bits of caramel and baked apple throughout. It finishes with a tangy citrus note. Inoffensive at best. Sure to be a hit in singles bars. (AG-ST)




WHITE

88 Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon 2007
Gascony, France
BC $15.00 specialty listing
The Grassa family reputation was built on Armagnac, still made today, but this sauvignon is far more interesting. Under screwcap this is a recession-proof bottle at $15 that is as fresh as it gets. The nose is a mix of bright 'sauvignon' fruits - kiwi, passion fruit, lemons and limes with a floral, mineral, notes and crisp acidity. From oysters to curries and almost anything in between enjoy this delicious white. (AG-ST)

 

87 KWV Roodeberg White 2008 Chardonnay - Chenin Blanc - Viognier - Semillon - S. Blanc
Western Cape, South Africa
BC $13.00 specialty listing, ON $12.00
The first Roodeberg White was born in 2007; the 2008 was launched in Canada at the Playhouse Wine Festival earlier this year. The style is aromatic and fresh. The blend is a 45/40/15 mix of chardonnay, chenin blanc and bits of viognier sémillon and sauvignon blanc. It's pretty delicious summer sipping stuff with fresh melon fruit, grassy citrus notes and swab of minerality in the finish. Our sample was served under cork but I believe by the time it arrives in Canada, at least in British Columbia, it will be bottled under screwcap so expect it to be another 10 to 15 per cent better on the nose. Less chardonnay more sémillon or sauvignon will really push this to new heights. Well done. Great value. (AG)

87 Castillo de Monséran Viura 2006
Cariñena, Aragon, Spain
BC $10.00 specialty listing, ON $9.00
Last year I suggested, when made correctly, Viura could be the poor man's albariño. In fact this '06 albariño-like white is fresher and brighter and slightly more exotic than last years. Love the orange, melon and pear fruit on the mid-palate and the delicious acidity that brightens up the rear end. Simply a delightful summer sipper that works well with simple fish dishes or with light tapas. Great value. Who knows how good this could be under screwcap. Lose the cork, please. (AG-ST)

87 Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2008
Valle del Lontué, Valle del Maule, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $10.00 general listing, AB $10.75 private wine shops, NF $13.00, ON $10.00, QC $11.95
Another fine rendition of this easy sipping sauvignon designed for food and fun. The 120 sauvignon is an 85/15 blend of sauvignon fruit from Maule and Casablanca all stainless steel fermented and finished under screwcap. It's bright fresh clean and brimming with herbal, citrus, chalky grapefruit flavours throughout. Think grilled white meats, pasta and salads or just take it to the beach. Affordable modern sauvignon blanc with style. (AG)

86 Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Western Cape, South Africa
BC $10.00 specialty listing, AB $9.25 private wine shops, MB $8.49, NS $9.99, ON $8.50 general listing, SK $10.99 Spring 2004
Similar to last year but even fresher which is nice and all under screwcap. Look for bright grassy pink grapefruit notes with a touch of minerality and just off dry. Think spicy dishes. Easy to sip and would be a patio winner for sure. Drink all summer in the heat and enjoy the value. Buy this one by the case. (AG-ST)

86 Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc 2007
South Australia, Australia
BC $11.50 specialty listing, AB $9.99, MB $11.99 Private Wine Shops, NS $12.99 Private Wine Shops, ON $10.30 Consignment - Mark Anthony Wine Merchants
The latest sauvignon blanc from Oxford is similar to the 07: crisp dry and grassy with mouth-watering acidity. It's made for food and those who appreciate the crisp, clean, tart, limon, grassy style. Think potato salads, cold chicken and seafood. (AG-ST)

86 Yellow Tail Pinot Grigio 2008
South Eastern Australia, Australia
BC $13.00 specialty listing, AB $11.00 private wine stores, NF $13.00, NS $12.00, ON $11.45
As in the previous edition the YT pinot grigio will surprise many. The style is fresh, clean and surprisingly dry with bits of lemon rind and green apple skin. The palate is similarly dry and fresh with a real citrus bent. Now under screwcap for easy opening on the patio. (AG)

 

86 Adobe Chardonnay Reserva Orgánico 2008
Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile
BC $15.00 specialty listing
Big grapefruit, green apple skin, floral, pear nose with some butter in the background. Crisp, fresh, round, elegant style with a touch of sweetness but balanced. Light butter, peach skin, green apple, baked pear, grapefruit, grassy, melon flavours. Simple but elegant and fresh with good texture. Solid value here for consumers as a sipper or with food. VOE Vinedos Orgánicos Emiliana is an independent company within the Concha y Toro group. (AG-ST)

86 Snoqualmie Naked Riesling 2007
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
US $12.00
Floral, citrus peel, baked apple, peach skin aromas. Fresh, crispy acidity but has a fair bit of residual giving a sweet and sour palate with baked apple, citrus, slate, honey, pineapple flavours. Solid summer patio wine. (AG-ST)

86 Torres Sangre de Toro 2006 Garnacha - Cariñena
Penedès, Catalunya, Spain
BC $12.30 specialty listing, NS $12.50, ON $12.00 LCBO, QC $13.00
The latest edition under screwcap is better balance with no reductive characters. Look for a spicy nose of dark plums and earth with meaty, earthy, cherry orange peel flavours. Solid rustic style red that Torres suggest goes well with stews, game and mushroom dishes. Good value. (AG-ST)

86 Viña Chocalán Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Saverio Schiralli
Lots of grapefruit, gooseberry, lime, green passion fruit aromas. Crisp, round, slightly fat entry with grapefruit rind, passion fruit sorbet, gooseberry, smoky apple flavours. Good citrus intensity and balance if a bit one dimensional. Good value. (AG-ST)

85 Penascal Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Castilla-Leon, Spain
BC $13.00 specialty listing
Floral, mineral, grapefruit, almond, passion fruit aromas with a touch of cooked lemon. Fresh, crisp, dry, elegant palate with canned grapefruit, mineral, gooseberry, lees, nutty lemon flavours. (AG-ST)




RED

 

88 Graham Beck Shiraz Viognier 2006 Syrah - Viognier
Coastal Region, South Africa
BC $15.00 specialty listing
The shiraz and viognier are co-fermented to heighten the spice and floral notes in the front end by winemaker Pieter Ferreira, in essence making it a bit more approachable. The nose is a mix of smoked meat and white pepper with a barnyard, cigar, savoury undercurrent. Super soft, round, ripe, slightly sweet and hot palate with more smoky, resin, peppery, sausage meat, saddle leather flavours with some very ripe fruit. Extremely warm and slightly tart finish flecked with liquorice violets and dried fruit flavours. Ageing takes place in a combination of 30% new French and American oak barrels for 13 months. Very new world style. (AG-ST)

 

87 Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006
Abruzzo, Italy
BC $15.00 specialty listing
Licorice, spicy, resin, floral, cherry, meaty, peppery, saddle leather nose. Round, supple, full bodied style with good acidity. Bright cherry, plum, spicy, licorice, rooty, smoky, meaty, peppery flavours. Good solid fruit core if a bit rustic but has good intensity to go with food. Very solid effort and value. (AG-ST)

87 Sainte - Croix Syrah - Merlot Vin de Pays d'Oc 2006 Shiraz - Merlot
Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $13.00 specialty listing
Pruny, peppery, cooked raspberry, cinnamon, tobacco, roasted meat aromas. Ripe, round, supple, fresh palate with light tannins. Raspberry jam, peppery, spicy, clove, cinnamon, meaty, licorice root and vanilla flavours. A bit warm but with some finesse. An affordable, good value food wine. (AG-ST)

86 Casa Silva Doña Dominga Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Carmenère
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 specialty listing, AB $13.00 private wine shops, MB $11.00
A nice bump up in flavour and quality for '07. Typically peppery with menthol and tobacco leaf notes but the palate is soft and round and flavour development more ripe. Soft black cherry fruit with dried leaf and pepper notes in the finish. Well made and exceptionally priced for all those summer backyard barbecues. Old vines 80 to 100 years old, hand picked, 15 per cent is aged in one year old French oak, for $13. Do you need another reason to spend your money here? (AG-ST)

86 El Burro Kickass Shiraz 2006
Bullas, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
BC $15.00 speculative listing - Diamond Estates, NS $13.00, ON $13.00
Meaty, gamey, peppery, rooty, licorice, blackberry jam, tobacco and smoky mineral aromas. Ripe, round, dry, full-bodied style but very warm with light tannins. Big black cherry jam, plum, licorice, peppery, rooty, meaty, chocolate flavours. A bit tart and hot on the finish but has lots of fruit and stuffing to take a lamb or beef stew. Like its grenache mate, good value. (AG-ST)

86 Las Moras Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz
Valle del Tulum, San Juan, Argentina
BC $14.00 speculative listing - Diamond Estate
Spicy, cassis, peppery, black olive, black berry, chocolate, tobacco, earthy nose with a savoury, meaty streak. Round, dry, supple palate with light tannins and fresh acidity. Chalky, cassis, black cherry, peppery, spicy, licorice, black olive and tobacco flavours. A bit dry and tart on the finish but has good intensity. Needs a year in bottle or try with roast beef or stews. (AG-ST)

86 Protocolo Tinto 2006
Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Christopher Stewart Wines
One of tempranillo's more enduring qualities is its soft, textures and reserved fruit. This wine over-delivers for the rice offering up a mix of raspberry and strawberry fruit with vanilla, peppery notes and bits of earth. Certainly this wine delivers for the price offering an easy-drinking, medium-dry, fruit flavours with just a dusting of dry tannins in the finish. Made with 100 per cent high-altitude tempranillo, grown in central Spain. (AG-ST)

86 Viña Chocalán Carmenère 2007
Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $13.00 speculative listing - Saverio Schiralli
Typical carmenère with its leafy dried herb nose and black fruit. The palate is soft the fruit sweet and the finish supple with dusty chalky tannins and a slight touch of cigarette ash. Certainly fine with grilled meat. (AG-ST)

85 Carmen Carmenère 2007
Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $14.00 speculative listing - Calibrium, AB $13.00 private wine shops, MB $11.99, NF $12.50, NS $10.99
This carmenère has taken on a fairly consistent style that offers up spicy, crush leaf nose with bits of black fruit and smoky, earthy, coffee aromas. On the palate it is dry with oregano, cigarette ash and juniper berry fruit flavours and a touch of elevated mid-palate acidity. Not an easy style to love but should be fine with rustic dishes. Hamburgers come to mind. (AG-ST)

85 Casa de Campo Malbec 2007
Argentina
BC $13.00 specialty listing, MB $13.00
Tobacco, savoury, plum, ash, roasted mushroom, meaty aromas. Dry, round, supple palate with fresh acidity. Cherry, blueberry, coffee, peppery, savoury, orange peel, resin, tobacco flavours. Very solid if a bit tart but has good stuffing for grilled meats. (AG-ST)

85 Cortello Vinho Tinta 2006 Castelão - Aragonês
Estremadura, Central and Southern Portugal, Portugal
BC $14.00 specialty listing
Smoky, saddle leather, peppery, tobacco, sausage aromas. Dry, fresh, round palate with light grainy tannins. Peppery, spicy, black olive, smoky, sausage meat, licorice, black cherry, leather flavours. Rustic but has good balance, try with grilled lamb. (AG-ST)

85 Emiliana Etnico Limited Edition Reserva 2007 Shiraz - Merlot - Mourvèdre - Malbec
Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile
BC $15.00, AB $12.00 private wine shops
Made from organic grapes. Cedar, herbal, dried dill, thyme, peppery, meaty, tobacco nose with a floral, sappy cassis note. Dry, fresh, round palate with light tannins. Tobacco leaf, sappy cassis, cedar, coffee, peppery, clove flavours. Warm, slightly tannic and fresh finish - best with medium rare beef. (AG-ST)

 

85 Michel Torino Cuma Organic Malbec 2008
Cafayate, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Northern Region, Argentina
BC $12.00 specialty listing, AB $11.50 private wine stores, MB $12.00, NF $12.00, NS $12.00
Big tobacco leaf, peppery, celery salt, black cherry, floral, dried herb, savoury aromas. Fresh, supple, round, ripe palate. Plum, cherry, poultry spice, tobacco leaf, cedar, riparian, mushroom, herbal flavours. Solid "food" wine, for the money, as in its needs a bit of protein to smooth out the edges. (AG-ST)

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.