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This month from the Allison Archives.
“The milk is cooked over an open wood fire in copper vats. Because of this traditional method, you will sometimes notice tiny flecks of soot in the cheese paste.”
Cheese: Gruyere l’Etivaz AOP
Origin: Town of Etivaz, in the Canton of Vaud, Switzerland
Milk Type: Raw (unpasteurized) cow’s milk
Style: Aged mountain cheese
Description: Fromage d’Alpage, or Alpine cheese, is an apt description for this unique small production Gruyere made in the southwestern Swiss Alps, in the canton of Vaud. The milk cooks over an open wood fire in copper vats. Because of this traditional method, you will sometimes notice tiny flecks of soot in the cheese paste. In 1932, seventy-six Gruyere-producing families founded their cheese co-operative. The locals felt the cheese they produced was of a higher quality than the standards the government required for Gruyere production, and they wanted to preserve the unique flavour of the terroir of their area. They collect the milk for the wheels from May to October when the cows are grazing outside in the alpine meadows. The area for summer grazing is between 1000 and 2000 meters and has an abundance of alpine grasses and flowers that are extremely important to the flavour of the milk. The wheels are aged between five – 13 months, depending on the size of the wheels. Other mountain cheeses are generally uniform in size, but Gruyere l’Etivaz depends on milk quantities at the various chalets so that the wheels can be anywhere from 15 - 35 kilos.
Tasting Notes: The alpine flora is an essential component of the finished wheels of l’Etivaz. The cheese can vary significantly in taste, but look for roasted nuts, meat broth, and fruit flavours. Expect an earthy, sharp finish.
Pairing: Although you might think of most Gruyere as a cooking cheese, this isn’t the cheese for that. The rich flavours of l’Etivaz hold up well to cured meats or dry-style salami and would be great for a stay-at-home picnic in your backyard.
Suggested wine pairings By GOW:
