People : Amaury Devillard

He poured several wines for the wine trade at an early afternoon tasting before he spoke to an intimate crowd gathered to enjoy his wine and food at Chef Robert Feenie's Lumiere restaurant. Devillard revels in the mystery of Burgundy which he summarizes as "a complex winegrowing region of 62,000 acres, 10,000 growers and 96 appellations growing only two wines: Chardonnay and pinot noir." Terroir is everything in Burgundy and nothing illustrates just how different each village can be than a negociant with a deft touch and vineyards across the countryside. Like many old firms, Rodet is steeped in history and tradition but it's the recent changes that have catapulted this five-generation, family owned negociant to the forefront of Burgundy producers. Since the early 1980s, Rodet has expanded its meagre 40 acres of vineyards to become Burgundy's largest landowner, with a commanding 400-acre inventory. Among the acreage is some very select properties including Chateau Chamirey in Mercurey, Chateau de Rully in Macon, Domaine Jacques Prieur in Meursault and Domaine de Perdrix in Nuits-St.-George. Despite its impressive and numerous holdings, Rodet is every bit the negociant-eleveur, selecting barrels and eleveur-ing or raising, improving and bottling wine purchased from communes across the region. Interestingly, in a family business dominated by males, Antonin Rodet owes most of its current fortunes to a woman, winemaker Nadine Gublin. The talented Gublin, named Winemaker of the Year in 1997 by the notoriously difficult and male review panel at Revue des Vins de France, was the first woman ever to win this coveted title. Since then, Gublin has spearheaded Rodet's quest for quality, raising the fortunes of a very ordinary negociant house to one of respected around the world. In the coming weeks many new Rodet wines will be available in B.C. Here's a look at what's available today: The '98 Rodet Macon-Villages is a classic. Expect mineral, butter and a touch of bruised, green apple in the aroma. It is dry but the textures are soft and round and its flinty mineral, citrus and lees flavours cry out for shellfish. Oysters would be perfect. The Chateau de Rully Blanc 1996 (the '98 is on its way) has less terroir on the nose and more honeyed fruit. The flavours are tart and bracingly fresh with mineral and apple aspects. It is made for food and paired well with Chef Feenie's cauliflower veloute with sea urchin and pearl bay oysters. The Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes is made from vines no younger than 25 years of age. Look for earthy, spicy, cherry aromas with some cedar tones in the background. It is a soft, dry, medium-body, red Burgundy with earthy spicy, cherry/licorice flavours. Good balance in a straight-ahead, forward-style pinot that's ready to drink. Duck is an obvious choice here. The Mercurey rouge is yet another consistent rendition from this undervalued commune. The nose is a mix of ripe cherry, plum and fruit aromas with a fine dash of spicy, clove and vanilla tones in the background. The flavours are similar with a slightly stronger clove, licorice and vanilla taste in the finish. Feenie's delicious menu match was a braised sweetbread salad with a soy celery and black truffle vinaigrette. The Cave Privee range is made from selected lots that reflect a single and recognizable terroir. "Raised" in the true sense of the word, by Rodet the negociant-eleveur, the 1997 Chambolle-Musigny is serious pinot noir. Look for dried cherry aromas with a whiff of spice and vanilla followed by peppery, beetroot, vanilla and clove flavours. Still young and tight, it will need another year or two to uncover the underlying fruit. Domaine des Perdrix works with 30 acres in the heart of the Cote de Nuits including a small parcel at Vosne-Romanee where Rodet has made a very fine 1998. This pinot is packed with ripe, black fruit flavours and a long, silky, suave finish. It was the perfect foil to chef Feenie's roasted Fraser Valley squab and Quebec foie gras with sweet and sour red cabbage, Granny Smith apples, a five-spice jus and garlic froth. Antonn Rodet Producer: Macon Villages 1998, Cote Maconnais Price: $16.95 Stock No.: 31252 Score: 14/20 Comments: Mineral citrus butter flavours. Producer: Chateau de Rully 1996/1998 Mercurey Blanc, Cote Chalonnaise Price: $29.95 Stock No.: 541540 Score: 15/20 Comments: Tart fresh oyster wine. Producer: Bourgogne Rodet 1998 Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 358606 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Dependable entry-level French pinot. Producer: Chateau de Chamirey 1998 Mercurey Rouge, Cote Chalonnaise Price: $35.95 Stock No.: 305323 Score: 17/20 Comments: Spice plums and fine tannins. Producer: Cave Privee 1997 Chambolle-Musigny Price: $59.95 Stock No.: 462846 Score: 16.5/20 Comments: Dried cherries and vanilla. Producer: Domaine Perdrix Vosne-Romanee 1998 Price: $59.95 Stock No.: 568899 Score: 17.5/20 Comments: Sublime mouth-filling pinot