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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, February 28 2009
America Wakes Up

Six out of ten Americans are wine buyers according to a new interactive survey of wine drinkers from The Harris Poll. Not bad for a country that seemed stuck in wine drinking neutral  most of the 1970s, 80s and early 90s. It seems wine is finally penetrating their culture and faster than even American marketers can react.

 

Interestingly, the survey also suggests that Americans who aren't currently buying wines from other countries are willing to consider wines from these countries. For example, while just 8 percent of Americans are drinking Portuguese wines, 32 percent would consider buying them. That has to be encouraging and no doubt surprising to some producers.

 

The numbers mesh well with what we are seeing in Canada and, as I've said for years, what has been occurring in British Columbia for nearly two decades. In fact, if you were to study the Vancouver market, most major wine producing countries are well distributed here. My guess the same distribution pattern is likely to happen in America over the next two decades.

 

Americans have already turned their attention from California and to some extent Italy and France to investigate wines from Australia, Chile, Argentina, Spain and South Africa. It's not a landslide given nine out of ten American wine buyers still drink wine from the United States but it's a start. And while I suspect California wineries think they will always be the go-to sellers of wine to Americans, I do not share the same sentiment.

 

Every other wine producing country is working as hard as the Americans and even harder exporting their wines globally. The truth is if California or Australia or Chile or Argentina wants to be successful globally they are going to have to carve out the same kind of market share the French and the Italian have done in most parts of the world. Oh, and when they do, those markets will look a lot like British Columbia.

 

The survey also asked what Americans are paying for wine. Just over 25% of respondents spent less than $10 per bottle while another 30 per cent tend to spend from $10 to $14. It's not the same wine we get for those prices (we pay more for less) but it suggests in tough economic times the market is likely to remain fairly firm, maybe even recession proof.

 

This week, I've gone back over my tasting notes for the last few months looking for best buys still in the market. Today we feature six value picks that not surprisingly come from just as many countries.

 

The Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2008 is yet another fine rendition of this easy-sipping sauvignon designed for food and fun. The 120 sauvignon is an 85/15 blend of sauvignon fruit from Maule and Casablanca all stainless steel fermented and finished under screwcap. It's bright, fresh, clean and brimming with herbal, citrus, chalky grapefruit flavours throughout. Think grilled white meats, pasta and salads or just take it to the beach. It is affordable, modern sauvignon blanc with style.

 

From Chile to Italy check out the Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006. You get a lot of liquorice and cherry, meaty, peppery fruit for $15 all wrapped up in a smooth red jacket. It finishes soft and round with more cherry, plum, liquorice fruit. A perfect Bolognese red or serve it with tapas style appetizers.

 

Back in stock and still a crazy value is the Blue Nun 2007 Riesling from Rheinhessen, Germany. This wine over delivers to say the least with its bright fruit and zingy acidity. Do not confuse this wine with the sweet original Liebfraumilch and do not underestimate its price quality ratio. Thai anyone?

Finca Los Primos Malbec 2007 has been a perennial star in this market thanks to its showy black fruit, liquorice and savoury undercurrent. The tannins are soft the textures supple and it seems to just slide down so easily. Most anything grilled on the barbecue works here. It has always been a very cool $10 wine.

 

You will have to go to a private wine shop to find the Castillo de Monséran Old Vine Garnacha 2005 but it is worth the trip. The entry is ripe and sweet, the textures slippery and the flavour components jacked with sweet plums, white pepper, raspberry, and orange flecks with bits of barnyard poking through. There is plenty of fun here for the money and it is well suited to food. Try with duck, pork or lighter meats. Good value.

 

The Deakin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is among the best cheap reds coming out of Oz by virtue of its ability to avoid the super acidic and the super sweet monikers. The nose is an inviting black fruit mix of liquorice and spice with a touch of earthy compost notes. The palate is soft; it is a simple sipper but with a touch of style. Think ribs or spaghetti here.

 

When you line theses wines up at home be sure to give thanks for competition and selection, it's our best route to reasonable prices.

 


Six Wines Six Countries

 

Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc 120 2008, Valle del Lontué, Chile

Price       $10.00

UPC       89419007091

Score     87/100

Remarks                Affordable modern sauvignon blanc with style.

 

Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006, Abruzzo, Italy

Price       $15.00

UPC       181856000335

Score     87/100

Remarks                Bright cherry, plum, spicy, licorice, rooty, smoky, meaty flavours.

 

Blue Nun Riesling 2007, Rheinhessen, Germany

Price       $11.00

UPC       04022025390030

Score     87/100

Remarks                Back in stock and just a crazy value.

 

Finca Los Primos Malbec 2007, San Rafael, General Alvear, Southern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

Price       $10.00

UPC       07790703167195

Score     87/100

Remarks                This red has ribs written all over it.

 

Castillo de Monséran Old Vine Garnacha 2005, Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

Price       $14.00, private wine stores

UPC       3378630306223

Score     87/100

Remarks                Plenty of fun here for the money and well suited to food. Good value.

 

Deakin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Victoria, Australia

Price       $14.99

UPC       00636662059126

Score     86/100

Remarks    A simple sipper but with a touch of style. Think ribs or spaghetti here.

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.