quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Eduardo Chadwick grew up in the shadows of the 6,959 metre high Mount Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Southern Hemisphere.

Some 50 years later, his winery - Viña Errazuriz - has taken up the Aconcagua (pronounced ACK-Can-COW-ah) mantle placing the east-west transversal valley on the world wine map.

 

Under Chadwick's guidance, there have been many firsts at Errazuriz. It was the first Chilean winery to install drip-irrigated vineyards in 1991. Chadwick was first to plant Syrah in 1993, his winemakers were the first to commercially, wild ferment Pinot and Chardonnay in 1995 and the first to plant Sangiovese in 1997. By 2004, Errazuriz had launched an organic Cabernet Sauvignon and by 2008 they were the first to launch an entire line of screwcap-finished wines in lightweight bottles.

 

Throughout the last decade, Chadwick's team has embraced the notion of sustainable agriculture, organic grape growing and in the case of the famed Seña project, the vineyard is certified bio-dynamic. The incredible 350-hectare, hillside, single-vineyard site originally created with Robert Mondavi was the first foreign joint-venture super wine made in Chile. The icing on the cake may be Chadwick's latest and most ambitious viticultural venture in Aconcagua Costa that has taken him to the western extremities of Valle de Aconcagua some 12 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. At the remarkable Manzanar Vineyard, a giant 1,047 hectares, Chadwick is shifting gears planting some 320 hectares of rolling hillsides to Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah and Pinot Noir. It's an immense project and its cool climate wines will likely redefine the wines of Errazuriz for generations to come.

 

Errazuriz's chief winemaker Francisco Baettig made his first visit to Vancouver this week. Here's a look at some of the best bottles we tasted.

 

An exciting new label now in B.C. is the Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010. The first of many "costa" or coastal wines, it comes off five-year old vines. Errazuriz has 80 hectares planted to the Sauvignon Blanc vines of various clones that when combined help shape the wine's vibrant style. Very little premaceration has led to a beautifully structured, aromatic white wine that dances a herbal, mineral, passion fruit ballet on the palate. It was made for oysters. For the moment you will only find it at Earls restaurants across the province on the "Reserve" wine list for a very modest price.

 

Baettig suggested to me that there is a revolution in Chilean winemaking and that its spreading fast and the Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Single 2009 is a fine example. Not your average $15 Cabernet, it comes with a significant Aconcagua terroir stamp showing cassis, mint and more structure and acidity than you would normally encounter in this price range. The nose suggests dried red fruits and bay leaf with bits of licorice and pencil lead. On the palate, the wine is firm, dry and linear with intense black cherry and cassis notes and just a dusting of tannin in the back end. A perfect match with grilled flank steak.

 

Equally intriguing is the Errazuriz Chardonnay Single Vineyard 2010 now flaunting the Aconcagua Costa moniker. The 28.5 hectares planted in 2005 include clones 548 (structure), 95 (aromatics) and 76 (tropical notes). It's all hand-picked, early in the morning before a swift and gentle whole-cluster pressing. The blend is aged on its lees for 12 months in French oak barrels (10 per cent new). The nose is a complex mix of aromas including lees, mineral and lively, citrus and nutty notes. The style is fresh and clean with fine concentration of flavour. Lush, creamy and sophisticated, it is a very modern take on Chilean Chardonnay. A great wine for seafood.

 

The grapes that go into the new Errazuriz Max Reserva Shiraz (Syrah) 2009 came from further inland in the Aconcagua Valley. The Max Reserva is aged 12 months in a 35/65 mix of American and French oak barrels of which 30 per cent are new. The nose is a mix of red and black fruit including cranberries, blueberries with dried herbs and sweet spices. The tannins are soft but firm in texture with more black fruit and gamy, meaty, clove and cinnamon notes in the finish. Best with grilled lamb.

 

The Errazuriz Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère 2009 is an outstanding Carmenère. We love the polish and weight, the sweet spice and fragrant smoky aroma that entices followed by plenty of peppery, black fruit and a wonderful, long smooth palate. The finish is like a long sunset with bits of dried tomatoes, spice, tobacco and sweet ripe tannins. The grapes come from Max V further inland in the Valle de Aconcagua and are aged in 85-per-cent French and 15-per-cent American oak barrels, 30 per cent of which were new. Stock up.

 

The top of the line Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2007 is based on 82per-cent Cabernet Sauvignon blended to equal parts of cabernet franc, petit verdot and Syrah. The result is an inviting fragrant nose of red fruits and licorice. Founder's Reserve is always a very pure expression of Aconcagua with its intense aromatic cedar, cassis and balsamic notes. The palate is elegant and the tannins well-managed. Red currants, spice and blackberry fruit disappear into the youthful French oak and vanilla, all in balance. Hearty winter dishes will settle this young red down but it should be perfect by 2016.

 


ERRAZURIZ

 

Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $24

UPC: 00608057106210

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Dances an herbal, mineral, passion fruit ballet on the palate.

 

Errazuriz Chardonnay Single Vineyard 2010, Aconcagua Costa, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $22

UPC: 00608057000013

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Lush, creamy and sophisticated; a very modern take on Chilean Chardonnay.

 

Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard 2009, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $15

UPC: 00608057106074

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Not your average $15 cabernet.

 

Errazuriz Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère 2009, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $23

UPC: 00608057105114

Score: 91/100

Remarks: The finish is like a sunset with bits of dried tomatoes, spice, tobacco and ripe tannins.

 

Errazuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2009, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $20

UPC: 00608057104919

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Red and black fruit with dried herbs. Best with grilled lamb.

 

Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2007, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $90

UPC: 00608057104841

Score: 92/100

Remarks: Founder's is always a pure expression of Aconcagua.

 

http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Winery+embraces+sustainable+agriculture/5555573/story.html#ixzz1cCu34xtd

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.