A Steak, a Grill, and Cabernet Sauvignon

It had an appealing dark colour few other red wines possessed. It was weighty and powerful in the mouth and it was loaded with dry, hard tannins -- the type that leaves your mouth feeling as if you just pulled a fluffy towel out of it.

Back then, the theory was the tannins would fade away over the years revealing the fruit and harmony of this noble grape. In fact, we were encouraged to cellar such wines and age them for a decade or two until the tannins softened.

It may have been true for the top cabernets of Bordeaux, but many wines simply got drier and harder as they aged, and by the time they eventually softened up there was no fruit left.

All that has changed in the modern-day vineyard. While cabernet has lost considerable ground to merlot and, more recently, the syrah/shiraz craze, growers and winemakers have transformed cabernet wines into something much less tannic and aggressive when they are bottled.

The textures are softer and the wine is much more drinkable at a young age. Similarly, better ripeness gives the wine a richer mouthfeel and pushes its green herbal flavours into the background

Cabernet is still not a grape for everywhere. Just ask Canadian wineries who struggle with almost every vintage to get the grapes ripe, but many have conquered the muscular, late ripening red worldwide.

What we do know is that consumers appear to have an insatiable appetite for cabernet and, at least in B.C., government and private-sector wine stores meet the need by listing hundreds of examples.

Today, in the midst of a holiday weekend, and undoubtedly many backyard barbecues, we look at six modern-day cabs from Argentina, Chile, California and Australia. All you need add are the steaks.

First up is Angus The Bull Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, out of Australia. The nose is open and generous with barnyard, tobacco and olive notes all flecked with savoury leather, and smoky cassis fruit tones. It has fine richness on the palate with blueberry/cassis fruit and more leafy tobacco undercurrents. A solid barbecue red you can serve with steaks.

Big changes at Chile's Cousino Macul have finally pushed this historic winery into the modern era. The new Cousino Macul Antiguas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 is well worth investigating. It has plenty of minty Maipo fruit laced with cassis and savoury leafy minty earthy tobacco notes. Similar flavours mark the palate with some chewy tannins, but this cabernet has breeding and elegance to counteract some youthful exuberance in both tannin, and acidity. You'll like the smoky minty cassis licorice root flavours in the finish.

California is always a good place to look for cabernet and the Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 fits the bill. It has a lovely enticing smoky, cherry cola, vanilla nose and flavours with streaks of barnyard and pepper. You will find it smooth and almost "sweet" on entry with a warm smoky blackberry finish. A fun sipping wine that would double as a fine accompaniment to most grilled meats.

Valdivieso continues to offer value for money even at the higher-priced, reserve level. The Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003, has a strong eucalyptus, leafy compost nose with black pepper, saddle leather and cassis aromas. It is all very cabernet with smoky, cassis, peppery, mineral and tobacco flavours and a fresh black cherry finish. It comes with fine weight to match its attractive, supple textures. The ultimate steak wine.

Dona Paula Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 is Argentine from its peppery, barnyard, cassis jam nose through its signature savoury notes of black olive and black berry reminiscent of ripe Bordeaux from Pauillac. The entry is tight, even astringent, with big cassis jam, peppery, black berry, licorice and tobacco flavours. The finish mixes savoury coffee, vanilla and leather. Young, long and a bit tannic, but will repay after three to five years ageing in the bottle, or do as the Argentines do and serve it now with grilled beef. There is fine value here.

Another Argentine wine to look for is Michel Torino Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003 from Mendoza with its savoury, blackberry, vanilla, peppery nose. On the palate, it is slightly tannic with more peppery, resiny, smoky cassis and chocolate flavours. A bit chunky and rustic but it has fine cabernet character. Grilled beef or lamb will tame the edges.

Price: $21.95

UPC: 871971000029

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A solid barbecue red that you can serve with steaks.

COUSINO MACUL ANTIGUAS RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, VALLE DEL MAIPO, CHILE

Price: $19.99

UPC: 089046666630

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Minty Maipo with cassis and savoury leafy minty tobacco notes.

HESS SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002, CALIFORNIA

Price: $24.99

UPC: 717888510025

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fun sipping wine that would be fine with most grilled meats.

VALDIVIESO CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2003, REGION DEL VALLE CENTRAL, CHILE

Price: $22.95

UPC: 7802180088860

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Very cabernet with smoky, cassis, peppery, mineral and tobacco flavours.

DONA PAULA ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004, LUJAN DE CUYO, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $19.95

UPC: 836950000100

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Signature savoury Argentine -- notes of black olive and black berry.

MICHEL TORINO DON DAVID CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2003, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $15.95

UPC: 7790189000177

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Savoury, peppery, resiny, cassis, chocolate and smoky flavours.