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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

I feel a bit like a Vancouver Canuck today given how many days I've been on the road this month and while I have yet to suffer a concussion of any sort, I'm sure I've killed a few brain cells in bars and pubs looking for a television tuned to the Canuck/Hawks game.

A Spring Roundup on Pricing and Demand for Wine

Doesn't anyone in America watch hockey?

 

The annual spring playoffs do remind me that we have already hit the first quarter pole of 2011. I am in Sonoma County where wineries are cautiously optimistic that the worst of the recession is over. Wine sales have been virtually recession proof for decades in North America but not this time around. Some of the biggest, well-financed players have mothballed facilities, trimmed case output and generally battened down the hatches the last two years and everyone has cut prices.

As California slowly emerges from the recession, you might be surprised to hear that some key players expect there will be a shortage of grapes and wine within two years across the Golden State.

 

In the Okanagan, where I was last week, I continue to see signs of sluggish sales. Older white wines dot many wine shop shelves and red wines are getting more and more time in bottle before release. The latter is a good thing because the wine generally improves with time but the former is troublesome as new vintages back up.

 

British Columbia wineries are loathe to discount their wines to the public but you can be assured there are plenty of backroom deals for restaurants and private retailers as the wineries dump stock and try to get inventory under control.

 

As usual, in the convoluted sales system of British Columbia liquor, local consumers never benefit from recessions, too much inventory, or a strong Canadian dollar. You simply pay the same or more and seemingly only complain to me about it.

 

New Zealand, Argentina and United States wine sales are on the upswing while Australia continues to struggle with consumer confidence. Look for more of the same in the second quarter.

In the meantime, todays eclectic picks follow up last week's bargain selection that would easily enhance your Easter weekend.

 

Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, from the Eden Valley. There are seven different block or vineyard selections of Chardonnay at Heggies and all are hand-picked and gently whole bunch pressed. It is fermented wild (no cultured yeast is introduced) for extra added complexity in new and used French oak. We love the citrus, pear skin, baked green apple aromas and the dry, crisp, mid-palate. The flavours run the gamut of pear, butter apples, quince and spice all with a creamy finish. It's not your average Oz Chardonnay.

 

There's something about the Zind Humbrecht Pinot D'Alsace 2007 that shouts it is a serious food wine. The nose is a powerful mix of mineral, chalky, floral, white peach fruit aromas with notes of butter, honey and citrus nut. Typically Alsace, the style is rich and full with fine acidity the flavours are equally intense with honey, baked peach, citrus peel, lemon, chalky, earthy flavours. Ready now, it has big weight but with fine freshness. Serve cold with sole in a cream sauce. Serious value in Pinot auxerrois.

 

Austin Hope continues his run of excellent Paso Roble Rhone style whites with his Treana Marsanne Viognier Mer Soleil Vineyard 2008. It possesses a floral, honey, waxy, ginger, orange marmalade nose that offers a slightly smoky notes. Creamy, fat, full and warm on the palate, it is awash in juicy marmalade, pineapple, canned peach, floral citrus flavours flecked with honey and ginger. The finish is warm and creamy with a touch of sweetness. A more intense, ripe style that is fun. Try it with spicy dishes, turkey or your favourite curry.

 

You should snap up any remaining 2007 Rhone reds you can find in wine shops before moving on to the excellent 2009 vintage. That said you may want to consider Château de Montfaucon Baron Louis Côtes du Rhone 2007, for any Easter celebrations. Expect an attractive black licorice, gamy, meaty, tobacco nose with garrigue and black cherry jam aromas. Warm, supple with light tannins it has juicy black cherry jam and thyme fruit flavours flecked with garrigue and meaty, smoky, tobacco notes. A terrific dinner wine.

 

You don't hear a lot about Caymus Zinfandel 2007, likely because the cabernet is so famous but this is one delicious zin and a far cry from the fruit bombs that masquerade as modern Zinfandel. Okay, it's a bit over the top on the nose and palate but most zin fans want some heft and spice in their wine. Look for a rich spicy blackberry jam and licorice nose flecked with bits of barnyard, black plum and briar aromas. The palate is loaded with juicy, round full-flavoured zin with brambleberry jam and smoky, black licorice flavours. A perfect candidate for lamb shanks or roast beef.

 

If you are serving cheese this weekend and looking for a substantial red, you can't go wrong with the Accordini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Le Bessole 2005. The Veneto-based red has an open delicious, fresh, clean style with a peppery, floral nose. A very appealing modern style of Amarone with chocolate, meaty, plum, black cherry, licorice root and Christmas cake aromas. The palate is round, supple and forward with light grainy tannins and vanilla, black cherry, plum, orange peel and kirsch flavours. Fine quality for the price. Perfect with roasted meats and dry, hard cheeses.

 


EASTER PICKS

 

Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, Eden Valley, South Australia

Price: $28

UPC: 09311789018041

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Not your average Oz Chardonnay.

 

Zind Humbrecht Pinot D'Alsace 2007, Alsace, France

Price: $34

UPC: 003760163402543

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Great value in Pinot auxerrois.

 

Treana Marsanne Viognier Mer Soleil Vineyard 2008, Paso Robles, California, United States

Price: $40

UPC: 00657891700115

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Try it with your favourite curry.

 

Château de Montfaucon Baron Louis Côtes du Rhone 2007, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $27

UPC: 003760007340024

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Warm, supple, juicy palate with cherry thyme fruit flavours.

 

Caymus Zinfandel 2007, Napa Valley, California, United States

Price: $46

UPC: 17224701149

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Big spicy, blackberry jam, licorice, brambleberry smoky red.

 

Accordini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Le Bessole 2005, Veneto, Italy

Price: $60

UPC: 791836015053

Score: 92/100

Remarks: An appealing, modern Amarone with chocolate, cherry and Christmas cake notes.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.