A Rosé By Any Other Colour Isn't the Same

Certainly rosé is enjoying its moment in the sun in what some would describe as a Wine 2.0 universe.

I'm not surprised people are drinking more rosé, if only because it's fun. It's an especially attractive choice when eating out of doors as is our wont any time the sun comes out in British Columbia. It also has an affinity for the lighter foods of summer; complementing them as opposed to obliterating their flavours. More important, and riots aside, you are all much more sophisticated wine drinkers then even a decade ago, and thus more inclined to experiment and take chances on a different wine style (read not red) like rosé.

The bad news is everybody and his dog is making rosé and most have no idea what the game is all about. That should all change this month as BC Liquor stores rolls out a fabulous offering of pinks from Provence, France. Think hard, when was the last time we associated the word fabulous with BC Liquor Stores? In fact, the Provence listings are excellent examples of what rosé should be and we can only hope that British Columbia wine producers buy a bunch, deconstruct them, and go back to the drawing board to improve all of our local offerings.

For the most part, the entire rosé category is too dark (in colour), too sweet (in flavour) and too heavy in structure to be considered serious, but there is always next year. There are exceptions but the arrival of a strong selection of Provence rosés should push everyone to get better.

Why is this stuff so interesting?

Well let's start with focus. From the day the Greeks brought wine to the region, in 600 BC, the people of Provence have been perfecting the art of dry, rosé production. Imagine how much Okanagan producers will know about Pinot gris 2,600 years from now.

A rich tradition is important; top Provence rosé is not some throwaway wine at the winery. The region is the site of France's oldest vineyards and there is a collective knowledge of time-honoured techniques that are de rigueur in producing delicately scented wines that entertain all the senses.

The elusive almost indescribable pale orange colour of Provence rosé is its first calling card. That it is refreshing, savoury, crisp and a mix of delicate fruit flavours with the persistence of what you might experience with fresh ripe watermelon only makes it more attractive. It's not about alcohol either, it's more ethereal. It's the delicate dance on the palate that seals the deal for most of us.

You will find a special Provence display in Signature BC Liquor Stores all month and should you find yourself in the neighbourhood of the 39th and Cambie store, today you'll find an in-store party where you can taste Provençal rosé, nosh on a slice of Pacific North West wild salmon and meet Wines of Provence representatives, Roque Pertusa and Valérie Lelong. As I enjoyed each of the wines I pre-tasted earlier this month in cool rainy weather, one can only guess how well my top six picks will perform in the sunshine.

The Gassier Rosé Sables d'Azur 2010 beguiles you with its pale pink colour and floral, earthy, citrus, mineral and cherry aromas. Fresh on the palate with plenty of citrus, floral, quince, honey, mineral and cherry flavours. Good texture and fullness with a dry finish. Solid food style for grilled fish or salads.

A delicate light floral nose with hints of red fruits and berries describes the Les Quatre Tours Signature Cote de Provence Rosé 2010. The attack is fresh and light with bits of cranberries, watermelon, strawberries, citrus and more floral undertones. Round, but with enough weight and structure to stand up to ham or chicken if need be. A gorgeous garden party wine or even better for a late afternoon on date on the patio.

Equally fresh and juicy is the Château La Gordonne La Gravières Rosé 2010. Expect an earthy, cedar, cherry, spicy, peppery, jalapeno, rhubarb palate made for foods like chicken or rabbit. Solid style and value here with a bit of sweetness on the finish.

Light, breezy, aromatic notes of strawberry and watermelon with minerality waft above the Brotte Les Jeannes Rosé Cotes de Provence 2008. Pleasantly dry with bits of lime rind, rhubarb and just a faint hint of earthiness this pink calls for grilled prawns or a freshly prepared homemade potato or chicken salad.

Strawberry and marzipan mark the nose of the Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé 2010. The attack is fresh and juicy and frankly delicious. Expect a subtle mix of strawberries, lemons and rhubarb and watermelon -none too strong to dominate but as a group they invite you into the glass and delight the palate. Elegant and expressive.

I love the style of the Château Miraval Pink Floyd Rosé 2010 with its classic light, ethereal, fruity characters and yeasty, dry mid-palate. The colour is picture-perfect pale coral; the attack a mix of pear and ripe red apple but it finishes dry and crisp and alive. Pick your favourite al fresco dishes and just add this wine. A delicious rosé for the patio.

Price: $16

UPC: 003604894180281

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Citrus, floral, quince, honey, mineral, cherry flavours.

Les Quatre Tours Signature Rosé 2010, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, France Price: $20

UPC: 003424701220326

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Cranberries, watermelon, strawberries, citrus and floral undertones.

Château La Gordonne La Gravières Rosé 2010, Cotes de Provence, France

Price: $18

UPC: 3244084305003 Score: 86/100

Remarks: Cherry, spicy, peppery, jalapeno, rhubarb flavours.

Brotte Les Jeannes Rosé 2008, Cotes de Provence, France

Price: $20

UPC: 3217661027223

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Lime rind, rhubarb and just a faint hint of earthiness; potato/chicken salad.

Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Cotes de Provence Rosé 2010, France

Price: $28

UPC: 3760167974107

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fresh and juicy and frankly delicious. Elegant and expressive.

Château Miraval Pink Floyd Rosé 2010, Cotes de Provence, France

Price: $30 UPC: 003760261000024

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Pick your favourite al fresco dishes and just add this wine.