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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The allure of wine festivals isn't quite what it used to be, mostly because there seems to be one every other week and many of those have become perfunctory, commercial fundraisers often run by people that have little passion for the subject.

That won't be the case on February 5 when two dozen members of the Napa Valley Vintners Association make their way to Vancouver to pour close to 100 wines bearing the acclaimed California appellation. Tickets are $55 which frankly is bargain if you consider that the cost of purchasing every bottle they will open for your tasting pleasure that night would set you back about $4500.00. To add further sheen to what should be a memorable evening many booths will be hosted by someone from the winery and best of all, it takes place at the Four Seasons Hotel where service isn't a slogan but a way of life. Should you choose to attend don't miss the opportunity to taste the Joseph Phelps Insignia ($175) (one of Napa's best blended reds) and perhaps work the room to compare it to the likes of Cain Five, Swanson Alexis Estate Red or the St. Supery Meritage Red. Cabernet sauvignon remains the big ticket red in Napa so be sure to find the time to taste the varied offerings of Signorello, Shafer, Stag's Leap, Merryvale, Frog's Leap, Cakebread, Clos Du Val and Far Niente. Other points of interest include seldom seen visitors (even at the Playhouse International Wine Festival) such as Frog's Leap, Cain Five, Cuvaison, Far Niente, Duckhorn, Napa Vista, Peju Province and Raymond. "A Visit to Napa Wine Country," a fundraiser for Arts Umbrella, runs from 7 to 9 p.m. and includes a silent auction featuring theatre tickets, weekend getaways, dinner and wine packages and some unique Napa wine lots. For tickets call the Arts Umbrella 681-5268, ext. 223. Earlier this month I tasted 50 of 100 wines coming to Vancouver including today's six standout varietals. Please note some wines will only be at the festival, a couple are listed in specialty government stores, some are on the way and some are in private wine shops. Here's what I found, The St. Supery Meritage White is a delicious mix of sauvignon and sémillon grapes with aromas and flavours that jump out of the glass. Melon, pineapple and lime zest mix with just enough toasted oak to make for a rich flavourful white with terrific balance. The Cuvaison Chardonnay with its vanilla, melon and smoky peach and baked apple aromas will mesmerise your senses. Its fresh citrus, mango, melon fruit flavours leap off the palate and I love the creamy, mineral fruit finish. It is well priced for the quality. Frog's Leap is a late comer to Vancouver but it shouldn't be overlooked. The '99 Zinfandel with its 5 per cent petit sirah fruit and native yeast fermentation is delicious. Rich plummy, black cherry fruit is at the heart of this supple, seductive red form Rutherford that packs an alcoholic punch in the finish. Shafer Merlot doesn't need any sales help from me but I recommend you taste this wine. The textures are Bordeaux sleek but merlot supple. The fruit is rich, dark and mouth-filling. The finish is long and persistent and a dusting of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon adds an extra dimension in the mouth. The 1998 Clos du Val cabernet was a pleasant surprise given the so-so reputation of the '98 vintage. Look for plenty of dense Napa fruit and flavours of cedar, leather, mocha/chocolate all wrapped up in a firm highly structured wine. A fine effort from long time owner/winemaker Bernard Portet. The Signorello 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon tells a different story. This 75/17/8 blend of cabernet sauvignon/merlot/cabernet franc is picked off Napa hillsides and fermented on native yeasts before spending 22 months in French oak. It is a powerful red although one can argue it is more Bordeaux-like in structure than California. Classic cassis, cedar and hints of tobacco are the pre-cursor aromas and flavours to what should be a great wine in ten years. If you would rather sit than stand, while eating and drinking than consider attending what should be a remarkable evening of food and Napa Valley wine on February 7 at Lumière. Chef/owner Rob Feenie hosts Ray Signorello owner of Signorello Vineyards, and Michael Updegraff managing director of Swanson Vineyards, for an evening of old vintages, big bottles and multiple courses of Feenie's acclaimed cuisine. The dinner is $125.00 per person, exclusive of gratuity and taxes but you must have reservation. Since any of the wines being served would cost you more than $125 in a restaurant you best reserve your seat today at 604-739-8185. Weekend Wine Tasting: Napa Valley, California Wine St. Supery 2000 Meritage White Price Estimated $50 Stock No. (Festival Only) Score 17/20 Remarks Round rich succulent white. Wine Cuvaison 2000 Chardonnay, Carneros Price Estimated $40 Stock No. (Festival Only) Score 17/20 Remarks Fresh apples and honey. Wine Frog's Leap 1999 Zinfandel Price $44 to $57 Stock No. Private Wine Stores (Liberty, Marquis) Score 15/20 Remarks Big warm, spicy zin. Wine Shafer 1999 Merlot Price $65.40 Stock No. 346262 Score 17.5/20 Remarks Soft sweet chocolate fruit. Wine Clos Du Val 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Price $44.95 Stock No. 325779 Score 15.5/20 Remarks Euro-style restrained cabernet. Wine Signorello 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon "Unfiltered" Price $95.90 Stock No. 457747 (arriving by mid-February) Score 18/20 Remarks Powerhouse Napa red.
Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.