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Before the new year becomes old I thought it might be funto sum up some of the events and people encountered in 2013, and reflect on howthey may be shaping the future of wine in 2014 and beyond. Let's start with concrete.
Let's start with concrete. Not the sidewalks in front ofyour house but rather the assorted collection of containers that are becomingfashionable again inside wineries. From concrete eggs to huge conical tanks,concrete is the new or should I say old, tool of choice in many wineries.Concrete is said to breathe much like oak or wooden vats. Italian winemakerAlberto Antonini says it is a much friendlier environment for fruit. Itspockmarked surface, at least at the microscopic level, holds millions ofpockets of air that are replenished every time the tank is empty. The oxygencan tame tannins, preserve fruit and improve the texture and mouth feel of thewine, all good things for delicate wines such as the style produced in theOkanagan Valley.
Speaking of containers. Just feel the weight of most winebottles in the market today. They are almost all lighter. Those big heavybottles, that suggest to some that the wine is expensive and important, nowsignal a careless owner who has no interest in his or her winery'senvironmental footprint. Wine served from kegs, bags and super light bottlesare all the rage, and the movement will continue. Expect to see the first paperbottles in this market later this year. Case weight for normal glass bottleswith liquid is 16.3 kg versus the paper bottle at 10.7 kg. A pallet of 56 casesprepared for shipping is reduced from
907.1 kg to 599.6 kg - a weight reduction of 34 per centand a savings of more than 6,350 kg per truckload of wine shipped. That's a lotof good.
In the highly regulated B.C. wine market, commercial wineauctions remain forbidden. I mean the thought of British Columbians buying andtrading wine in auction rooms, well, think of the children. B.C.notwithstanding, the rest of the world's auction houses are facing anunprecedented amount of forged and fake wines that will bring into question thevalue of all old great bottles in 2014. Without provenance, it will be harderand harder to sell old bottles of wine. As for new wine, producers worldwidewill need to install the latest in security to prevent future counterfeitingand to defend their wine's origin and provenance throughout its life. If not,there could be no legitimate aftermarket to fuel the cellaring and resale ofgreat wine.
Many are touting the rise of sommeliers, and here inNorth America it appears their role is growing in leaps and bounds. I wouldtweak that slightly saying respect for all people who know wine, where it comesfrom, how it is made, why it works with food, how it is cellared and where youcan buy the good stuff is growing. Vancouver has been the Silicon Valley ofcombined wine knowledge in Canada and many young people here have gone on tomake their mark in provincial, national and global wine businesses. If you wantto be in the wine business in 2014 you need to acquire more education and grabsome valuable experience, selling, buying, tasting and talking about wine.
Locally 2014 will be fraught with uncertainty. There arequestions about our ability to export, VQA standards that are becoming datedand there are continued nagging concerns about the damage Cellared in Canadawines are doing to brand Canada nationally and internationally. Interprovincialwines sales remain a pipe dream for local producers still denied access toAlberta, Ontario and Quebec markets. It looks as if there will be a splintergroup of B.C. producers who want to be part of a more progressive, qualityoriented group of B.C. wineries that will set higher production standards andstricter rules of origin.
Oh, and we will taste some wine along the way. Soundslike my kind of year.
Castaño Macabeo Chardonnay 2011, Yecla, Valencia andMurcia, Spain
Price: $14 (Everything Wine) | Score: 87/100
UPC: 8422443001215
You won't find this in government stores, but EverythingWine has it. Fresh, juicy, light and elegant with red apple, passion fruit,grassy, grapefruit, honey and floral flavours. Consistently fine value withevery vintage. Back the truck up.
Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough,South Island, New Zealand
Price: $20 | Score: 87/100
UPC: 9421018070013
Consistent style here with lemon, grapefruit, jalapeño,lime rind, nettle nose setting the stage for a very crisp, clean, juicy, tightlemon palate with granny smith and passion fruit flavours. The acidity here ismanageable but it needs food: mussels, clams and creamy pasta dishes.
The Doctor's Riesling 2011, Marlborough, South Island,New Zealand
Price: $20 | Score: 88/100
UPC: 009419056110136
A low alcohol Kabinett-style Riesling picked at an earlystage of ripening to arrive at a minimal 8.5 per cent alcohol level much like aGerman Mosel. Light petrol, waxy, green apple nose with guava aromas. Crisp,fresh, juicy and creamy with light sweetness and green apple, honey, lime,slate, guava flavours. Good delicacy and intensity with creamy acidity on thefinish. Sushi is the match.
Michel Torino Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2011,Cafayate, Calchaqui Valley, Argentina
Price: $16 | Score: 87/100
UPC: 7790189000177
Fresh, round, dry, slightly astringent entry with cassis,coffee bean, vanilla, licorice root flavours flecked with smoky peppery, blackolive and cassis flavours. A bit herbal but good overall structure with sometannins to lose. A must-serve with grilled meats for best effect.
Catena Malbec High Mountain Vines 2011, Mendoza,Argentina
Price: $23 | Score: 88/100
UPC: 007794450008053
Tobacco, resin, pepper, balsamic nose with hints of pruneplum and saddle leather. The palate is peppery with black cherry, licorice,chocolate, tobacco, leather and savoury dried herb flavours. Good finesse andbalance for the price and ready to serve with most grilled meats.
Grant Burge Filsell Shiraz 2009, Barossa Valley, SouthAustralia, Australia
Price: $40 | Score: 90/100
UPC: 09315705004002
Black pepper, licorice root, smoky, blackberry, lightfloral, rosemary and prune plum aromas. Full, ripe, round, suave palate withfresh acidity. Blackberry jam, blueberry, licorice, smoky, herbal, savoury,coffee, vanilla and meat flavours. A bit warm and tart but good fruit andintensity for drinking now, or in the next two years.
