A Great Range of Rhones in 2009

Although with so much snow in the forecast it seems as if winter isn't far behind. With much cooler temperatures, it's the perfect time to pull out the winter coat, or in this case Côte, as in Côte du Rhone.

There is a wealth of 2009 labels from across the north and south Rhone Valley in government stores, and now is the time to strike. Make no mistake, this is a very high quality vintage with exceptional concentration. Both consumers and restaurants should stock up on their favourites that should only improve effortlessly in bottle over the next five years.

If you were to draw up a perfect vintage, you couldn't go wrong with 2009 in the Rhone. A wet winter followed by an early, warm spring, early flowering and early veraison (when the grapes change colour). Follow that with a hot dry August, normal autumn temperatures and 30 per cent less water and you have magic.

The accolades are numerous. "[The year] 2009 in the North is easily the best since 1999, and probably since 1990," said noted Rhone authority Robert Parker. "[In the south,] 2009 has turned out to be an excellent vintage with a number of top wines in Gigondas and Vacqueyras. One could argue that 2009 may end up to be nearly as profound as 2007." That's pretty heady stuff for Parker.

"The growers of the northern Rhone have never had so much confidence in their very particular terroirs and their ability to express them," said U.K. expert Jancis Robinson.

Personally I have encountered very few poor wines in the examples I have tasted and, as the top northern appellations become available over winter, the quality will only increase. The price of the '09 Rhone wines is nothing short of terrific, meaning they will deliver a lot more for the money than anywhere else in the world.

Today some 24 grapes have the legal right to be grown inside the Cotes du Rhône appellation. Although the ones most likely to be included in the blend are: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan and Counoise. The Appellation d'origine Contrôlée Cotes du Rhône is the broadest moniker one can apply to any wine grown in the Rhone Valley and while it includes all the famous northern communes or villages such as Hermitage, St. Joseph and Cote Rôtie, the majority of the fruit come from the villages and environs of the southern reaches of the warm, windswept valley.

Next up the quality ladder is Cotes du Rhône-Villages spanning some 90 communes. The grape mix is similar but in the case of "Villages" designation the Grenache must represent 50 per cent of the blend.

Above the simple "Villages" designation, producers can further add the name of any of the 18 designated villages thought to be the best in the region such as Cairanne, Rasteau, Sablet, Séguret and Visan. Finally those villages that have distinguished themselves over time are given cru status and are sold by their village name, like Vacqueyras, Lirac and Gigondas.

On the lighter side of most '09s is the Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhône Rouge 2009 with soft, plummy black fruit aromas and flavours all with a touch of dried herbs and tannin in the back end. A simple straightforward red you can serve with hamburgers or grilled chicken. The blend is roughly 65 per cent Grenache and 35 per cent Syrah. Ready to drink.

The M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhône 2009 comes off four separate Rhone departments in Drôme, Vaucluse, Gard and Ardèche. The attack is smooth and dry with good acidity. Look for black cherry, plum, orange fruit with gamy, licorice, dried herb and dark chocolate flavours. Drinkable now but worth aging one to two years. Good value here.

Another delicious pick is the Gabriel Meffre Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint Mapalis 2009 with its spicy red fruit nose, dried herbs and peppery, rich fruit flecked with chocolate. Plan de Dieu or literally the "Plain of God," has been planted since the late Middle-Ages and was recently restored by Meffre and in 2005 it was officially recognized as an "AOC Cotes du Rhône Villages" appellation.

Expect the Ogier Cotes du Rhône Heritages 2009 to boast an aromatic dried herb, garrigue-scented nose flecked with milk chocolate. The palate is similar with fine acidity, bright black cherry, plum and licorice fruit with a dose of spice, minerality and a touch of tannin. Super solid and so affordable.

The Reserve Perrin Cotes du Rhône Rouge 2009 is a touch riper in '09 with a fresh, open, peppery, meaty nose flecked with wild herbs. The palate is almost glossy with fine texture and rich, ripe, plummy, black cherry flavours flecked with mandarin skin. Super value in a perfect dinner wine.

The perfect finale is the Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhône Villages 2009. The "Villages" is always a bit warmer and glossier than the simple Cotes du Rhone but in this case it's a big jump up for very little in price. Spicy blackberry fruit dominates with bits of licorice and some classic garrigue or dried herbs in the finish. It is warm but with impressive concentration of fruit. Should be on every wine list in the city.

Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhône Rouge 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $15

UPC: 00604174000639

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A simple red you can serve with hamburgers or grilled chicken.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhône 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $18.50

UPC: 03391181110938

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Black cherry, plum, orange, spicy, licorice, dark chocolate flavours.

Gabriel Meffre Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint Mapalis 2009, Rhone Valley,

France

Price: $15

UPC: 3142920024401

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Drink now with lamb chops, or hold five years for even better results.

Ogier Cotes du Rhône Heritages 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $18

UPC: 00714320135006

Score: 88/100

Remarks: So solid and so affordable. Buy this one by the case.

Reserve Perrin Cotes du Rhône 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $18

UPC: 631470000131

Score: 89/100

Remarks: The palate is almost glossy with rich, ripe, plummy, black cherry flavours.

Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhône Villages 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $16

UPC: 604174000271

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Spicy blackberry fruit dominates.

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