A Global Gago is the Penfolds Secret

You must have benchmarks against which to measure your own achievements," if only because many of his wines set a standard that should be aped worldwide.

Gago is that rare individual who often wants to hear more about what you know than what he does.

Don't get me wrong, when he talks wine people listen, but his worldwide gallivanting is as much a fact-finding mission for his wine palate as it is a public relations exercise for the winery.

Gago spends an intense six months in Australia scouring vineyards, looking for any edge that can move the quality needle forward at Penfolds. The former teacher has the perfect mix of talent and energy to steer the ship, but his curiosity and global outlook is what makes him the most valuable asset at Treasury Wines and Penfolds, one of the few New World wine brands that is cutting edge.

Gago's appearance in Vancouver this week at both trade and public events is a big nod to the city's commitment to modern food and wine. B.C. is the first to receive the latest Penfolds releases, and today we look at a cross section of styles and prices.

We begin with two value offerings under the historic Koonunga Hill label. Gago has a great deal of respect for the Koonunga Hill lineup and is constantly inspiring his team to raise the quality level whenever the bean counters aren't looking. Certainly all the learning that goes into the famous Penfolds Bin lineup isn't forgotten when the Koonunga Hill wines are assembled.

Case in point is the Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2010. The style faintly mimics the great Yattarna with its cool citrus, green apple skin nose flecked with pear, honey, light lees and butter notes. The attack is similarly styled; it is fresh, slightly soft and warm on the palate with baked pear, green apple skin, nectarine, butter and grapefruit flavours. A skinnier, cooler style Chardonnay, Koonunga Hill is still sourced from multiple districts with significant contributions from Clare and Padthaway in southern Australia.

The Penfolds Koonunga Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 is a relatively new addition to the Koonunga Hill line up. The first solo cabernet only appeared in 2002. The fruit is a mix of Barossa Valley and Langhorne Creek that is matured for 15 months in old French and American oak. Expect a classic rendering of Cabernet Sauvignon with savoury, cedar and cassis fruit flavours with some mid-palate acidity poking before a black cherry, licorice finish. A sturdy Cab for barbecue duty that is ready to drink. Ribs would be an excellent match.

Penfolds 'Bin' wines were born decades ago when numbers were assigned to the bins where the bottles were stored. Over time each wine was given a permanent number, such as Grange which is the famous Bin 95.

Our first Bin selection is the Penfolds Cabernet Shiraz Bin 389 2008. Look for an aromatic and inviting nose with a mix of plums, blueberries and capsicum (as they refer to bell peppers Down Under) with bits of vanilla and coffee. The palate is awash in soft, round, sweet fruit that slides across the palate with ease. The midpalate has some acid pushing back, but the oak, black pepper, tobacco and youthful cherry vanilla fruit soothes the finish. Impressive; clearly this Bin has been upgraded. Think lamb chops or roast beef.

You can expect a deep, darkly coloured red, with an expressive Cabernet Sauvignon nose and equally full flavours from the Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 2008. Black currants and cedar dominate with a touch of elevated mid-palate acidity and flecks of black olives and spice and tomato paste. The tannins are expertly managed, fine grained and dense but with smooth edges. Definitely mid-to fullbodied in style and a wine that will easily keep through 2016 or you could serve it now with grilled meats or hard cheeses.

The Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 2008 is the pinnacle cab in the Penfolds lineup. It is a classic multivineyard and multi-regional (Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Wrattonbully) blend that hits all the high notes in 2008. Look for an open, floral, violetscented nose with a savoury cassis undercurrent. The attack is four-square with a swarm of brooding black plummy fruit, cloves, espresso and licorice root. The tannins are firm but fine-grained and supportive of the oak and fruit. Gago hints there could be some Block 42 cabernet in the mix. Regardless, this is a serious vintage of 707 and will easily rank among the best in the last 15 years.

If Grange and RWT rank at the top of the Penfolds red lineup it's the Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay 2008 that leads all white wines made on the premises and, frankly, this label has to rank among the top five white wines made in Australia. Gago, chief Penfolds winemaker, and the white wine team continue to refine the Yattarna (aboriginal for little by little, or gradually) and the 2008 is a sensational release. The nose is a tour de force of freshness and subtle wisps of lemon, butter, lees and toasted cashews and baked apple. The attack is crisp but with delicacy and finesse and a creamy texture. More juicy flavours include honey, baked apple, oyster liquor and mineral flavours with a touch of seashore and chalk. Definitely Eurostyle, and it's 87 per cent Tasmanian fruit with the remainder picked at Adelaide Hills. This wine is now capable of a decade of aging. Super quality.

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2010, South Australia

Price: $15

UP: 012354071339

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Baked pear, green apple skin, nectarine, butter and grapefruit flavours.

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, South Australia

Price: $17

UPC: 00012354072374

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A sturdy Cab for barbecue duty that is ready to drink.

Penfolds Cabernet Shiraz Bin 389 2008, South Australia

Price: $41

UPC: 012354071209

Score: 91/100

Remarks: The palate is awash in ripe, soft, easy-sipping fruit.

Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 2008, South Australia

Price: $41

UPC: 012354071476

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Black currants and cedar dominate flecked by black olives and spice.

Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 2008, South Australia

Price: $150

UPC: 012354071254

Score: 95/100

Remarks: Brooding black plummy fruit, cloves, espresso and licorice root.

Penfolds Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay 2008, Tasmania, South Australia

Price: $110

UPC: 0012354072251

Score: 94/100

Remarks: Lemon, butter, lees and toasted cashews and baked apple.