A Decade of Screw Caps

It's been more than a decade since twist or screw cap closures were first mentioned in this column.

There was widespread opposition from producers in Europe, North and South America (and more than few skeptical consumers) at the time but most of that resistance has long faded. Screwcaps are here to stay at some level, and each day they seem to achieve even greater heights as they ascend up the quality and price ladder to close some of the best wines in the world.

There will always be a place for cork-finished wine. Especially those wines that need time in the bottle and in many ways the adoption of screw caps for everyday red and white wines is reducing the stress on cork trees and cork manufacturers. It may be just what the cork industry needs to better manage its resource and produce a higher percentage of quality, taint-free corks.

That said, even the finest corks can have a negative effect on delicate white wines, and I for one would be happy to see the end of corks in all but a handful of whites. Good or bad, it is clear to me that a cork can alter the flavour of a wine. Even the most expensive and expertly made corks tend to shave off, or at the very least, dampen the top five to seven per cent of the most delicate fruit aromas and flavours found in wine. While that may be useful for big, rich, alcoholic reds, it's simply not acceptable when it comes to the delicate, finely-nuanced aromas and flavours of white wine.

Winemakers are likely to concur that the ultimate game plan should be to let consumers enjoy the cleanest freshest wine, free from the dreaded 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) or cork taint and its mix of mildew, mould and damp cellar scents. Amazingly, even at less than 10 parts per trillion (the level at which oenologists are expected to detect taint), TCA can wipe out the delicate aromatics that come from perfectly ripened fruit faster than you can shout, "hey this wine is corked."

The most interesting aspect of the entire screw cap versus cork debate is how quickly consumers have embraced the easy opening twist cap. You may not be able to identify a TCA tainted (corked) wine when you encounter it in a restaurant or at home, but it would appear any excuse not to use a corkscrew is good enough to get you to reach for a bottle of wine with a twist-off top.

Screw caps are empowering consumers to open bottles of wine with the slightest twist of the wrist and by all accounts they are enjoying the ease with which they can finally access their favourite wines. Much is made of the romantic sound of a cork being pulled out of a bottle but you have to be able to get the cork out for that to take place. It's been my experience with friends that once they have experienced a quality screw cap wine they tend to be much more disposed to try others.

It's been a huge lesson for wine producers as well. Wine has been far too mysterious for far too long, and in a strange way the screw cap appears to have become a major weapon in breaking down barriers between drinking wine and really enjoying it.

This week, we celebrate the rising tide of twist top wines with an outstanding selection of six European wines, most of whom would never have sported a screw cap closure a decade ago. Each is a delicious summer sipper and all sell for less than $15. They're not all screwcap finished and I'm good with that. It's your choice now. You can go for romance or you can reach for ease of use. This time it really depends on your mood.

El Petit Bonhomme Blanco 2012, Rueda, Castilla-Leon, Spain

Price: $15 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 8437012278264

Canadian Nathalie Bonhomme continues to impress from Spain; this time with a summer sipper made from verdejo. The Blanco is a mix of grassy, nutty, nectarine skin aromas with a slightly softer rounder mix of melon and bruised apple flavours. A ready-to-drink, patio white.

Cuvée du Haut-Censy Muscadet Sèvre et Main Sur Lie 2012, Loire, France

Price: $16 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 5023438123498

Super fresh, floral, white flowers, pear skin, granny smith, citrus aromas. The attack is equally fresh and bright with a delicate, juicy mix of lemon, granny smith and mineral finish. Finesse and delicacy with razor freshness. Oysters anyone?

Arrogant Frog Ribet White Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France

Price: $13 | Score: 86/100

UPC: 3760040425009

A surprisingly fresh edition of Sauvignon that opens with light, aromatic grassy notes with a hint of citrus and grapefruit. The attack is smooth with more grassy, nettle citrus fruit touched with lime rind. Mussels would be a perfect match or even a summer chicken salad.

Poggiotondo Toscana Bianco 2012, Florence, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $15 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 008032927130104

Winemaker Alberto Antonini loves the lean, fruity, chalky style that in this case is spiced with lemon zest, floral and almond aromas. The attack is dry and tight with a fresh, juicy palate and a touch of freshening squirt of CO2. A crisp, austere style with plenty of length for seafood pasta dishes and grilled calamari.

La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Luberon Blanc 2011, Côtes du Lubéron, Provence, South of France, France

Price: $13 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 631470000049

Floral, quince, pear, lemon oil, baked green apple, ginger and slate aromas. Fresh, round, juicy off-dry palate with a creamy texture and similar flavours. Well-balanced, easy drinking style with some complexity. Solid value here.

M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Blanc 2012, Côtes du Roussillon, France

Price: $15 | Score 89/100

UPC: 03391182411034

Seemingly consistent each year, the latest Bila Haut has the customary citrus aromas of grapefruit and lemons flecked with honey, baked pear and quince. The attack is round with juicy, fruity citrus, ginger, spicy and orange peel notes. It finishes with a hint wet stone and saltiness.