24TH PLAYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

The spirit-raising effect of some stellar spring weather had them reaching for the lightest and freshest wines inside the huge tasting room at Canada Place. German riesling was an obvious choice, given its delicate, perfumed fruit, but so were many other un-oaked whites from around the world, led by sauvignon blanc, sémillon and viognier. All four of those grapes are finding their way on to B.C. restaurant wine lists, complementing several home-grown whites. The driving appeal is that they're light, fresh and easy to drink. Yet more important, this casual style of entertaining wine is beginning to appear on home decks and patios across the province, signalling a relaxed attitude toward sipping simple, hedonistic wines in social situations. As hosts come to realize that less is more, heavily wooded whites that never really worked well with the food are giving way to lighter styles -- some are single varietals with individual appeal, other choices are blends of two or more grapes. The two hottest wines to look for this season are sauvignon blanc and riesling, but where they come from is just as important. Cool climate sites such as Marlborough, New Zealand; Casablanca, Chile; Monterey and Mendocino counties in California; Walker Bay and Durbanville Hills in South Africa; Rueda, Spain; the Mosel Valley in Germany; Adelaide Hills in Australia and most of the Okanagan Valley are fast becoming the appellations of choice for summer sipping. These wines come in two main types. First is the pure varietal or un-wooded style, with crisp acidity. The other is lightly oaked, combining some portion of barrel-fermented and tank-fermented juice for a slightly richer, more complex flavour that still tastes fresh. From notes made during last week's festival plus some earlier tastings, here are some of my current favourites eminently suited to patio entertaining. There are many such wines to choose from, but I have restricted my picks to those offering terrific value. That said, the list is only a starting point from which to begin exploring. As you gain confidence drinking and matching each style with food, you will discover a whole new world of wines that are nothing more than simply fun to drink. The Bishop of Riesling (Rudolf Muller, Germany; $7.95; #36111) is the perfect everyday riesling for picnics or patio sipping. Light, floral, fruity and low in alcohol, it slides down so easily you hardly know you are drinking it. Its price makes this the best white wine value in the B.C. market. One of the stars of the wine festival, although it's been in liquor stores for months, is the Cono Sur Viognier from Chile ($9.95; #566836). Viognier, a classic northern Rhone variety, seems to excel at Cono Sur, where it produces a delicious, mid-weight white with both fruit and vivacity. It's a versatile food wine, too, pairing well with chicken, pasta dishes or Asian stir-fries. Two Oceans, from South Africa ($9.95; #340380), takes its name from the meeting of the Atlantic and Indian oceans off that country's south coast. Each is responsible for a complicated collection of meso-climates that create conditions favourable for the production of cool, clean, fresh sauvignon blanc at incredibly affordable prices. In many ways the latest South African sauvignon blancs offer fresh, intense flavour similar to those from New Zealand. Look for particularly fine value from the Bellingham Sauvignon Blanc, (South Africa; $12.95; #596692) and from an ultra-new facility outside Cape Town, the Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc ($14.95; #590562). Old World producers have been slow to join the fruity-white-wine revolution, but one large vintner now onboard is Baron Rothschild, maker of Mouton Cadet Blanc (Bordeaux; $11.95; #2527). The wine is a 60/30 blend of sémillon and sauvignon blanc, with a dash of muscadelle. The result is grapefruit, melon, mineral, kiwi and citrus zest on the nose, and round, soft, mineral, grassy and grapefruit flavours. Travelling along a similar path is the Marques de Riscal, from Rueda, Spain ($12.75; #237529). Always fresh and flavourful, it plays with fresh light citrus and grass flavours. Think of pairing it with sushi or oysters, and enjoy. The New Zealand shelves are a great place to look for big flavoured whites to entertain your guests, and while you won't find much at $10 or $11, prices are slowly receding due to currency fluctuations, and that's making the distinctive gooseberry flavours of Marlborough wines easier to like. There is much to choose from, including: Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc ($16.45; #293043), Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc ($17.95; #554196) and Forrest Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($21.95; 503193). From closer to home, B.C. pinot gris and pinot blanc are fashionable, along with the odd sauvignon and or riesling -- but locating these bottles can often take a bit of work. Some labels worth checking out include Cordillera Spotted Lake Sauvignon Blanc ($10.95; #596007), Calona Artist Series Pinot Blanc ($8.95; #261024), Gehringer Dry Riesling ($10.25; #265181), Hester Creek Pinot Blanc ($10.90; #467316), Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc ($13.90; #500322), Gray Monk Pinot Gris ($13.95; #118638) and the Sumac Ridge Private Reserve Gewurztraminer ($13.95; #142893).