quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Few categories at the National Wine Awards are as diverse as white blends.

We see everything from the proverbial kitchen sink blend, when the list of grape varieties reads like a short novel, to faithful renditions of classic blends that have stood the test of time. Some of the wines are meant to be everyday sippers, ready to be served patio-side and priced accordingly. Others are some of the most serious wines in the country. And, yes, seriously priced, too. 

This year’s gold medal winners capture the range of what’s happening from coast to coast, providing a convenient snapshot of the category. Bordeaux blends play a significant role across both Niagara and the Okanagan Valley, representing 24% of medal winners, by my count. Sauvignon blanc may not necessarily love Canadian winters. Still, the Stone Eagle 2023 Eagle Eye and Creekside 2023 Iconoclast demonstrate that it can be worth the effort (and heartache), especially when paired with the depth and richness of semillon.

Rhône varieties continue to impress the judges for good reason. Roussanne, marsanne, and viognier are not widely planted, but combined (in whole or in part) they punch above their weight in the results, accounting for 14% of medals. The Lake Breeze 2023 Roussanne Viognier makes the case for plantings to increase in the South Okanagan, where Rhône whites should be more seriously considered among the region’s top-performing grape varieties.

In many ways, Tidal Bay, Nova Scotia’s signature white wine, is the exact opposite. The wines are crisp and aromatic, with a distinctive sea-spray character that evokes the Atlantic. More importantly, they’re illustrative of what happens when there’s industry cohesion and solidarity. Look no further than the results: Tidal Bay accounts for 14% of the medals. Together, wineries have found a winning formula. The bonus is the prices won’t make your eyes water, either. 

Interestingly, the gold medal winner from Nova Scotia, the Planters Ridge 2024 Quintessence White, doesn’t fall into the Tidal Bay category. Although made from the permitted varieties, it’s predominantly New York muscat (73%), which is capped at 15% for Tidal Bay. It’s floral, delicate, and pure – and fantastic value at $25. Talk about going against industry tides.

The final gold medal winner shows that there’s still substantial room for creativity and innovation within the white blend category. The Terravista 2024 Fandango shouldn’t be confused with the Terravista 2024 Proyecto Terruño Fandango, made from American fruit, though I’m sure it will be. The blend of albariño and verdejo, established by Senka Tennant way back in 2011, demonstrates the potential upside of thinking outside existing paradigms.

GOLD MEDALS

Lake Breeze 2023 Roussanne Viognier BC $29.00

Stone Eagle 2023 Eagle Eye ON $89.80

Terravista Vineyards 2024 Fandango BC $33.00

Creekside 2023 Iconoclast Sauvignon Semillon ON $24.75

Planters Ridge 2024 Quintessence White NS $25.08

    

Written By:
Geoffrey Moss MW
Geoffrey Moss MW

Geoffrey Moss MW, a wine reviewer/critic and contributor at Gismondi on Wine, earned his Master of Wine in August 2020. Born in Ontario, with a degree from McGill University in Political Science, Moss' resume includes working for premium brands, including with Don Triggs and family at Culmina Estate Winery, and then as part of the team for the ambitious, 100-million-dollar Phantom Creek Estates project, seeing its brand and winery emerge from scratch to full realization. Moss opened Lithica Wine Marketing in 2019. He runs his wine consulting business from Penticton, British Columbia, in the heart of the Okanagan Valley.