14 Arpents

 14 Arpents is one of my current favourites in the ever expanding world of Canadian cheeses. Fromagerie Médard makes all of its cheeses on site, at their dairy farm located along the shores of Lac-St-Jean. The farm has been in the family for 5 generations but the current generation has taken the farm from dairy production to cheese making. Their herd of Swiss Brown cows is the sole source of their milk.

Although they make a number of other tasty cheeses, in a variety of styles, it's the 14 Arpents that stands out to me. The washed rind exterior is tender but still typically sandy, and the interior seems to be barely contained by the rosy coloured crust. What strikes me is the vegetal earthiness that comes with the first bite. Cooked cauliflower, mushrooms and a finish of hazelnuts linger on the palate. Clearly the milk quality is excellent.

Quebec produces many great examples of washed rind cheese, a style I love, but I feel like the subtlety of 14 Arpents makes it stand out amongst the crowd. Although it isn't extremely strong for a washed rind cheese the layers of subtle flavour and the fabulous lush texture make it memorable.

Typically, washed rind cheese pairs well with spicier white wines, but they're also great with many styles of beer and dry apple cider.

Allison Spurrell along with her mother Alice Spurrell are the proprietors of les amis du FROMAGE and the award winning cheese & wine bistro Au Petit Chavignol. She is a judge for the DFC Canadian Cheese Grand Prix and the PNE Artisan Cheese competition. She is also a member of the Guilde des Fromagers Confrerie du Saint-Uguzon and the American Cheese Society.

Les amis du FROMAGE w buycheese.com w Kitsilano 1752 W. 2^nd Ave T 604-732-4218 w East Van 843 E. Hastings St T 604-253-4218

Au Petit Chavignol w aupetitchavignol.com w 843 E. Hastings St T 604-255-4218

Gismondi on Wine suggests the following wines to pair with 14 Arpents:

90 Thornhaven Gewurztraminer 2010

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

BC $18.00 winery direct

Nobody does it better in BC or Canada. Every year this fresh, ripe, perfectly-tuned gewürztraminer is well worth hunting down. The combination of freshness, varietal character and ripe citrus, litchi fruit flavours with a strong floral undercurrent are exceptional. Terrific intensity and length. Bravo, again.

88 CedarCreek Gewürztraminer 2010

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

BC $18.00 specialty listing

Always a softer slightly sweeter style gewürztraminer the latest CedarCreek is similar with perhaps alittle better supporting acidity that will be welcome by many drinkers. Big litchi fruit and melon with a softer edge. Easy to sip on the patio but will be perfect with spicy Pan-Asian dishes that need a cooling agent at the table.

86 Quails' Gate Gewurztraminer 2010

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

BC $17.00 winery direct, private wine shops, AB $16.00

Floral, spicy, peach, honey, fruit cocktail aromas. Fresh, crisp, juicy palate with grapefruit rind, green apple, floral, honey, lemon flavours. Simple, rind-y style.