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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Several thoughts this week, beginning with Finance Minister Colin Hansen's amazing response to my article regarding the HST on wine.

(10+5) - 12 = Zero Savings for Consumers

 

I am sorry, Mr. Minister, if I left you with impression that prices were going up. I thought it was clear that I was saying despite an overall three per cent reduction in tax when the 10 per cent PST and the five per cent GST morph into the 12 per cent HST, wine prices are not going down.

 

When you say "prices will be virtually unchanged as a result of the increase in markups and the reduction of provincial tax" you failed to mention your government adjusted its arbitrary markup levy on wine to 123 per cent from 117 per cent, thus inflating the retail price of wine so when you apply the lower 12 per cent HST, the net effect is no change in revenue to government.

 

Even if that results in no appreciable change in wine prices, you should at least admit you are robbing your customers of what should have been a savings of three per cent.

 

It should be also noted that adjusting the markup is an expensive proposition for industry. Every wine in the system has to be re-priced and that means hundreds of products will jump a few pennies up or down, leaving the supplier with a new dilemma: to eat the few pennies and lower the profit margin, or give in to the temptation and raise prices 80 or 90 cents a bottle and take some extra profit. The latter is a very real scenario that will further increase government revenues at the expense of the consumer, who simply pays another dollar for the same wine.

 

Governments need money and consumers must be taxed -- we get it -- but why is it always the wine drinkers who are stiffed when it comes to tax? The allure of wine and food has saved this government's bacon, no pun intended, over the last decade and yet the ministry continues to inflict the hospitality industry with outrageous taxes it would never have the nerve to impose on other sectors of the economy.

 

The outcry will undoubtedly recede in the coming months, but don't count on the money rolling in forever. Sooner or later the systematic dumbing-down of wine selection and government's obsession with selling heavily taxed, commercial plonk will eventually kill B.C.'s reputation for wine and food.

 

That, Mr. Minister, will adversely affect local wine producers, restaurateurs, farmers, tourism and, ultimately, your nearly billion dollars in liquor revenues.

During a recent trip to Seattle, I noted restaurant wine prices were little more than retail prices in stores. No wonder the border crossings are so busy.

 

Hard as it may be to believe, the golden goose is almost dead.

 

In other news, the 39th & Cambie Signature liquor store will play host on Friday to a South African tasting for the public. A selection of S.A. wines will be paired with savoury bites prepared by Hart House Restaurant chef Kris Kabush, and attendees will enjoy complimentary five-minute spa treatments from Spa Utopia.

 

In conjunction with the month-long promotion, Wines of South Africa is also offering a deluxe prize package featuring Spa Utopia and the Pan Pacific Vancouver. The winner will enjoy a $225 spa gift certificate, lunch for two and one night's accommodation at the luxurious Pan Pacific, all valued at $1,000. For details, and to enter the draw, visit www.wosa.co.za.

 

Here's a look at some of the wines on offer this month.

The Spier Chenin Blanc 2009 from Stellenbosch has a fresh green apple nose with bits of honey, mineral, grapefruit and floral notes. The palate is fresh with slightly sweet grapefruit, grassy, nettle, honey, green apple and anise flavours. A crisp, juicy style made for most seafood.

 

Still with the signature Cape grape the Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc Summer Moments 2009 comes with a more classic nutty, grassy, green apple nose flecked with honey, gooseberry, and spicy aromas. The entry is fresh, crisp and just off-dry entry with nettle, lemon, grapefruit, gooseberry, passion fruit flavours and a touch of grass. Love the juicy mineral, green guava finish. Solid value.

If you dabble in viognier, don't miss the Excelsior Paddock Viognier 2009. You will love the freshness and its slightly sweet but juicy palate. Orange peel, ginger, apple skin, honey, slate highlight its palate of flavours. Fine intensity for the money in a smart summer sipper.

 

The new release of the Excelsior Shiraz 2007 from Robertson pleases with its smoky, black plum, meaty, spicy aromas. Ripe, round and fresh on the palate the tannins are light with a touch of sweetness and fine flavours of cherry, coffee, pepper, licorice and smoky, leather notes. A fun barbecued ribs red.

 

If you love the smell of coffee, the Barista Pinotage 2009 from the Western Cape may be for you. The nose has intense smoky, roasted coffee notes mixed with cassis, chocolate and meaty aromas. The palate is very fresh acidity and some sweetness with more cherry/coffee/chocolate with vanilla, menthol, tobacco leaf flavours.

 

Finally the latest Boekenhoutskloof, the Wolftrap Syrah - Mourvèdre - Viognier 2009, has arrived for summer. The palate is always so supple and fresh with smoky, spicy, black cherry, plummy, coffee, licorice and chocolate flavours and just a touch grilled meat on the finish. A reliable red for the patio or cabin.

 


SA Picks

 

Spier Chenin Blanc 2009, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price      $14

UPC       00606655000299

Score    87/100

Remarks              Crisp, juicy finish makes this ago with most seafood.

 

Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc Summer Moments 2009, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price      $16

UPC       6005357000905

Score    88/100

Remarks              Grapefruit, gooseberry, passion fruit flavours.

 

Excelsior Paddock Viognier 2009, Robertson, Breede River Valley, South Africa

Price      $16

UPC       06004470000083

Score    88/100

Remarks              Fine intensity and juiciness for the money. Great value.

 

Excelsior Shiraz 2007, Robertson, Breede River Valley, South Africa

Price      $16

UPC       6004470000144

Score    87/100

Remarks              Think summer and barbecued ribs.

 

Barista Pinotage 2009, Western Cape, South Africa

Price      $24

UPC       00746925001547

Score    86/100

Remarks              For coffee lovers.

 

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Syrah - Mourvèdre - Viognier 2009, Western Cape, South Africa

Price      $15

UPC       746925000564

Score    88/100

Remarks              A solid red wine for barbecue meats.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.