10 Voluptuous Viognier

Ferrari later learned the dinner would be advertised as "The Viognier Monologues," a cheeky word play on the theatrical play The Vagina Monologues, and the dinner theme the viognier grape, and that's when the panic set in. She had yet to see the play and the more she researched the play the less comfortable she became with her speaking engagement.

The night of the event Ferrari quickly captured her audience when she pointed out to the attendees that the many euphemisms used to describe that part of the female anatomy that is the hub of The Vagina Monologues were nothing compared to the many and varied pronunciations of viognier she had encountered when meeting wine consumers at public tastings.

If the growth of viognier sales has been stunted by anything it may be a pronunciation problem. In my experience if consumers cannot confidently pronounce the name of a wine the chances of it being purchased in any quantity is greatly diminished.

The correct pronunciation of viognier is VEE-own-YAY but as Ferrari points out the staff at Yalumba have heard just about every pronunciation possible including: VEE-own-YEAR, VEE-og-NEAR, VIE-on-JEER, VIG-knee-OR and many more.

Still the quirky grape has managed to spread around the world in the last decade from its Northern Rhone base to Australia, California, Chile and even British Columbia's Okanagan Valley.

It's not an easy grape to grow. Mildew is a problem; yields are less than ample and seldom predictable. But when it's right, viognier's golden colour and the aroma of fruit and flowers can be shockingly good.

While its colour and nose suggest a sweet tasting wine, viognier is invariably dry. It is best known for its plethora of flavours that span the gamut from mineral/apricot, white peach, and candied orange peel to kiwi, apricot, lime, honeysuckle, pineapple, honey and smoky vanilla.

Today's picks span several styles and prices; all are worth tasting.

92/100 Yalumba Viognier Eden Valley 2003
Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia
Very open mineral, spicy ginger, honey, creamsicle, lychee nose with a bit of citrus rind and buttery vanilla. Super rich, round and fresh with fine acidity if a touch warm. Ripe apricot, spicy ginger, orange rind, mineral, buttery vanilla flavours with green apple skin, honey finish. Fine length, intensity and extract.
Tasted: 2004-08-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $19.50 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $26.99 (750 ml); ON $22.95 (750 ml) Mark Anthony Wine Merchants
CSPC: 034066;   UPC: 9311789079745
Producer: Yalumba
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; Négociants International

90/100 Yalumba Viognier Y Series 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
Big spicy, honey, mineral, rose petal, creamsicle, ginger nose with a touch of grapefruit rind. Rich, ripe, round and a bit oily with super ginger, mineral, honeyed, floral, orange, nectarine skin flavours with a touch of apricot and steel on the crisp, warm finish. Great now but will improve over the next year. Great value.
Tasted: 2004-08-06 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $14.45 (750 ml); BC $17.99 (750 ml) Specialty; ON $14.95 (750 ml)
CSPC: 624502;   UPC: 9311789475974
Producer: Yalumba
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; Négociants International

90 Longview Beau Sea Viognier 2004
Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia
AB $29.95 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $33.95 Speculative
Big mineral, chalky, spicy, ginger, lime rind, honey, apricot, guava aromas. Ripe, round, fresh and crisp with honey, lime, ginger, nectarine, orange and creamy lees flavours. Very juicy and zesty, should improve over the next 2 years. Try now with grilled scallops, veal cutlets or turkey.

89 Darioush Signature Viognier 2004
Napa Valley, California, United States
BC $59.95 Speculative Listing - New World Wines Inc.; US $34.00 Winery
The Darioush viognier comes of the Ashley Vineyard in the Oak Knoll AVA of Napa Valley. Just released the nose is opulent offering persist floral/mineral notes with a powerful (14.9 alcohol) ripe apricot undercurrent. The textures are creamy; the flavours a mix of honeysuckle and mineral flecked with orange rind and more apricot. Well-made and leaner than previous editions making it much more food friendly. Think lobster, roast chicken or even spicy Indian dishes.

89 Domaine de Molines Viognier Réserve 2003
Languedoc, South of France, France
AB $19.99 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $23.55 Speculative - Winspeer
Hand picked and partially barrel fermented by Michel Gassier this is a spicy, ginger, mineral scented white with floral, honey, apricot skin aromas. The textures are round the style is fresh and crisp with mineral, oily, ginger, honey, citrus peel flavours and a touch of lees. The finish is dry, crisp and spicy - will be a good match for sautéed scallops or a light chicken curry but might accompany pork also. Good value.

89 McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2004
California, United States
AB $19.90 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $22.95
Spicy ginger, honey, floral, lime rind, creamy, mineral, nectarine aromas. Rich, round, slightly oily palate with good acidity and a touch of sweetness. Nice pear, guava, spicy, ginger, orange, honey and buttery lees flavours. Elegant and fresh with a creamsicle finish. Tasty.

88 Soaring Eagle Viognier Limited Edition 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.40 VQA Wine Stores
Light garlic lees, mineral, clover, honey, green apple skin aromas. Ripe, round, elegant and fresh with ripe pear, mineral, spicy, honey, guava, jasmine flavours. Just bottled, has great mouthfeel and fruit, the nose needs to open up a bit.

87 Michel Gassier Viognier Les Piliers 2004
Le Gard, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France
BC $24.95
Spicy, ginger/turmeric, honey, mineral, perfume / apricot and citrus aromas but a bit closed and young. Ripe, round, soft and dry but fresh with mineral, ginger, apricot skin, floral, citrus rind, honey flavours. Quite dry and crisp on the finish, needs 1-2 years.

87 Sandhill Viognier Small Lots Program Osprey Vineyard 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.99 Granville Island Brewing Retail Store; or www.sandhill.ca
Floral, mineral, spicy, light honey, pear, citrus aromas with a bit of lees, orange rind and sausage. Dry, round, lighter style with orange, mineral, ginger, green apple skin and sausage flavours. Good acidity and elegance for such young vines.

87 Serame Viognier 2004
Languedoc, South of France, France
AB $10.25; BC $11.40 Specialty; MB $11.95
Another winner form Serame. We love the fresh honey, spicy ginger, chalky butter apricot aromas. It is round and dry but well balanced with floral, honey, citrus, ginger, mineral and fresh guava flavours. Great value and a wine that can be served with most any foods or solo as a sipper.