10 Mmmmm Merlot

Sideways is long gone from theatres but the scenic romp through Santa Barbara wine country in search of the perfect pinot noir has left the merlot grape in limbo. The culprit is a hilarious exchange between Miles, the newly divorced wine snob played by Paul Giamatti, and his old college buddy and washed-up actor Jack (Thomas Haden Church).

The scene, set just outside the Hitching Post restaurant in Buellton, Calif., has Jack, desperate to impress their waiting dates, instructing Miles, "If they want to drink merlot, we're drinking merlot."

Miles now famous reply is "No, if anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f----g merlot!"

It was quote heard round the wine world and one that has given merlot, still the largest-selling red variety, a real image problem. The challenge is a sea of uninspired, soft red wine that meets only one key requirement: you can drink it -- now.

Here's 10 that deliver far more then you might expect for the price.

93 Pedestal Merlot 2003
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
BC $84.99 speculative listing - Mark Anthony Brands; US $55.00 retail
Michel Rolland in Washington is not un-like Rolland in Argentina. Big smoky, savoury, gamey, peppery, black cherry jam, garrigue nose with saddle leather, tobacco and black olive aromas. Incredibly rich, fat, warm, concentrated wine with ripe, grainy, grippy tannins but the key is with lively acidity. Lots of smoky vanilla, black cherry, plum jam, floral, spicy, cardamom flavours finish long mixing mint, resin and espresso. Big ripe, fruity style with oak but has finesse and balance and acidity. Will improve over the next 2-5 years. This will give many a chateau in Pomerol a run for its money.

93 Patrimo del Feudi di San Gregorio 2002
Campania, Italy
AB $149.99; BC $194.90 Speculative - Stile Wines
Very dark colour. Menthol, minty, peppery, cherry, black plum, resiny, saddle leather, cigar nose with some rosemary, garrigue underneath. Round, intense, rich and fat with smooth tannins. Big mocha, peppery, minty, spicy, meaty, cherry, plum and tobacco flavours with a long garrigue, licorice finish. Dry, somewhat rustic tannic finish with some warmth that should dissipate over the next 3-7 years but a fine effort.

92 Le Defi de Fontenil 2005
France
BC $0.00
Barrel sample. Big black cherry, plum, spicy, coffee, orange vanilla, christmas pudding nose iwth a bit of tobacco and cedar. Rich, ripe, bright and fresh with very peppery, spicy, orange peel, coffee, mocha, black raspberry and plum flavours. Warm, elegant, fresh finish but long and intense. Excellent fruit, will need 5-7 years to round out the tannins.

91 Ferrari-Carano Merlot 2003
Sonoma County, California, United States
AB $32.99 fine wine boutiques; BC $39.99 speculative listing - Authentic Wines and Spirits
Big cherry, cassis, minty, peppery, spicy, licorice root, clove, cardamom nose with some smoky vanilla. Dry, round, supple, elegant style with some light, dry tannins. Very spicy, cardamom, floral, black raspberry, plum, vanilla, smoky flavours with a touch of grille and herbs. Needs 2-4 years but fine concentration.

90 CedarCreek Merlot Platinum Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $39.99 VQA Wine Stores
Floral, black cherry, spicy, vanilla, smoky bacon, black olive, chocolate and tobacco aromas with a gamey, saddle leather streak. Dry, round, slightly astringent palate. Lots of spicy, coffee, black cherry, bacon, tobacco and green olive flavours with a bit of green bean and chocolate on the finish. Good length but some tannins and acidity need to meld. Cellar for minimum three years.

90 Kendall-Jackson Merlot Grand Reserve 2003
Sonoma - Napa, California, United States
AB $47.95 fine wine boutiques; BC $44.95 speculative - Summit Fine Wines
An extended cold soak prior to fermentation continues to enhance the round, supple nature of this merlot with its spicy black fruit nose and cedar-y, olive underbelly. Similar flavours mark the palate with flecked with cherry cola and chocolate. The fruit is a rigourous selection of top lots from Sonoma (77) and Napa (23). Winemaker Randy Ullom is using 23 per cent new French oak here and it's really firm up the mid-plate and finish. Well done.

89 Mission Hill S.L.C. Merlot 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $39.99 winery direct, Mark Anthony stores
The S.L.C. merlot opens with tight peppery, spicy, cool cherry aromas laced with mint, coffee, garrigue, vanilla and licorice notes. The palate is dry but rich with plenty of youthful grainy tannins. Blueberries, black cherry, smoky vanilla, savoury flavours. Showing a bit of chocolate now and fattening up as we expected. Fine intensity as the tannins settle down. Reminiscent of a semi-modern St. Emilion. Needs 2-3 years to fully develop.

89 Doña Paula Merlot 2004
Ugarteche District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina2
AB $17.95 fine wine boutiques; BC $19.95 special order - Winspeer
Sweet vanilla, spicy, plum jam, savoury nose with some tobacco and pepper. Ripe, supple rich textures with some heat. Savoury chocolate pudding, black cherry tobacco flavours with a green olive, licorice herbal tone on the finish. Good intensity, like St. Emilion but still a bit raw. Needs a year or so. Fine potential.

89 Barnett Vineyards Merlot 2003
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, California, United States
BC $63.95
Spicy, cedar, black cherry, mocha, vanilla, tobacco and saddle leather aromas. Dry, warm, round and full bodied with some grainy, slightly chunky tannins. Cherry jam, minty, incense, peppery, coffee, vanilla, tobacco flavours. Very warm, dry, coffee, smoky finish. Needs 2-3 years to round out.

88 Benziger Merlot 2002
Sonoma County, California, United States
AB $25.95 fine wine boutiques; BC $29.95 specialty listing
Typical Benziger merlot (sans cherry popsicle). Look for cedar, spicy, black olive, tobacco, dill, barnyard, coffee nose. Round, supple, elegant style with cedar, chocolate, coffee, vanilla, smoky, black cherry, spicy, tea flavours with a dill, olive finish. A bit dry and tight but it has some elegance. Wait another year for perfect maturity.